GeneralDisorder

No you cannot resurface the block deck. That requires complete disassembly of the short block. If you can tear off the timing then you can do the HG yourself. It's not rocket science. If it runs ok, doesn't knock, and has no metal in the oil filter I would just change the head gaskets and all the other seals and move on. One of my loaners has 319k on it and had HG's at 286k. GD

Not that I'm aware of. A customer of mine (another shop) bought a good used engine from me. I resealed it and they installed it. They bought two parts without asking me - an air filter and a PCV valve. Both from Autozone. Engine ran dry of oil in 200 miles and rod knocked. No visible exhaust. They filled it up with oil and took it for a test drive with a follow vehicle to look for smoke and there was none they could see. It used an entire quart in about a 20 mile test drive. Upon tear down it was fairly obvious the PCV hose from valve to manifold was the oil source. Autozone ended up replacing the engine. They agreed with our analysis and so did the manufacturer of the valve (Wells). Though initially they denied the claim stating the customer should be checking her oil. It was an older lady in her 70's so that just wasn't going to happen. GD

Valve adjustment inspection should be performed and it likely needs valve cover gaskets anyway. Plugs if they weren't done already. Radiator and hoses are due. 8-10 years is max useful lifespan on plastic tank rads. Get hoses from the dealer. PCV hose cracks on that model. Get the updated hose. GD

You need to have them resurfaced. Period. They will be pitted on the gasket fire ring after that kind of mileage. Straightness isn't the issue. Surface finish is. GD

It doesn't matter. Your HG's are bad. Location of the bleeder pin makes no difference. Your engine overheated out of the blue without warning or being low on coolant, etc. Does that implicate the jiggle pin? No it does not. You have classic HG failure. I've seen it (not exaggerating) about 1000 times. I do Subarus for a living. Every. Day. GD

600 is crazy cheap. A typical EJ head gasket job is now around $2,000 with timing components, etc. And yes you 100% have a gasket failure. I would be highly suspect of a $600 head gasket job. It's easily 10 hours of work to do it right. Machine shop labor for head resurfacing. Heck just the head gaskets are $50 each. Quality timing components will run $350+. With a thermostat, hoses, etc you are looking at $600 in quality parts. Aint no HG job done for $600 going to go the distance. GD

I would pull the outer timing covers. If the belt is skipped or broken this would be immediately apparent. And then move directly to pulling the valve covers to check lash. Replacing the belt and the doing a compression check is unlikely to be successful and if the lash doesn't check out the engine is getting pulled anyway. But there are many ways to approach it. I've seen plenty of higher mileage D's with valve lash problems anyway so it's good to check. GD

That isn't one I've seen. On the contrary the aftermarket pans by Killer-B and others have no provision for this seal. None of the built engine that we have done using this and the Moroso pan have had any significant oil consumption due to their designs not incorporating the snorkel pipe. GD

I've seen all 4 quarts go through a junk aftermarket PCV valve in 100 miles. GD

I've seen more than one 2.2 with the #3 thrust that had excessive thrust play. Definitely check. GD

Just pull the valve covers and check the valve lash. If you have any bent valves it will show as excessively large valve lash. There's no need to go into the timing at all to do this and if they are bent the valve covers are coming off anyway. GD

Replace the PCV valve with one from the dealer. GD

253 deck clearance is nowhere near 160 thou. You probably read that in metric, which would be .16mm, or .006" 160 thou would wreck the quench. 6 thou plus the gasket would be in the ballpark for quench. You're going to find the compression much too high as I said though. The aftermarket pistons WILL NOT WORK as they are pin located for 257 rods. They will sit way over the deck with an NA rod length. GD

It is unlikely the transmission will work for this purpose. It is too highly integrated with traction control systems, and other module that you couldn't possibly make work. It is designed to be AWD and the control computer will certainly not appreciate you attempting to turn it into a RWD. It will not operate at all without it's computer, and there is no way to reprogram it as they have not been hacked by the open source community. What you are attempting is going to be quite difficult, if not impossible. At the very least it will be much harder than other options that would be a LOT easier and arguably much more fun. An LS swap for instance. GD

Compression is much too high with a 251/3 bottom end using 2.2 heads. It's over 11 even with 25D gaskets and it will detonate like crazy due to high static compression and terrible quench. There is not a gasket that will fix the problem. The thicker you go the worse the quench becomes and makes the performance aspect of the build useless. Best combo for performance is going to be a 257 bottom end (pistons and rods anyway), 97-99 25D heads milled .040", and 770 gaskets. 10:1, proper quench, and dual cam heads. GD

I'm talking manual. They are cable push clutch on NA and hydraulic pull clutch on Turbo. The auto's are of course the same except for final drive. You could convert pedal assembly, etc. But it's not a bolt in. GD

That was on 85 to 89 DL models only. Will be extremely hard to find. GD

Yeah it's just heat insulation. Throw the whole belly pan away. Get a Primitive Racing skid plate. It will do the same job and actually protect stuff. GD

That goes in the trash. GD

Junk. Get Koyo, NTN, or NSK. The bearings have to be pressed with an on-car screw press. It's not really a DIY friendly operation. GD

Completely different and not compatible. GD

We do see a lot of rod bearing failures on the 06 to 10's. Oil consumption that goes unnoticed, etc. Usually runs about $4800 to replace with a 3yr / 36k short block from Subaru. GD

Yes. May have to change the fork also.

http://www.enduringsolutions.com

Use a clutch and flywheel from a 2006 to 2014 WRX. Stock Exedy will work fine. They are designed for 265 HP. GD