GeneralDisorder

You have to swap not only the ECU, but all it's wiring plugs - mapping each wire from the old harness to the new harness. Then you need to either buy an Access Port ($600) and pay for the Cobb training/license for their tuning software ($150) or buy a Tactrix cable and flash adapter ($200) then learn to tune it with open source software such as ECUScan, or Rom Raider. Or you can do the ESL swap for $750 shipped from the UK plus a computer (93 to 96 WRX) and not have to do any real wiring. Just move a single ground wire. GD

It will oxidize with age and heat cycling. It will not last forever unless its vacuum sealed in opaque glass or some similar material that is basically impervious to time and elements. Gear oil should be changed about every 60k or 10 years. GD

We see a disproportionate number of problems with the 05/06 Legacy GT/Outback XT platform. It takes a fair number of expensive parts and labor to bullet-proof one of those. We just did a 2008 Outback XT - forged pistons and all the trimmings, etc. Bill was over $9k. Be very careful who you trust with that model. They need to be well versed in the turbo failures, piston ring land failures, and broken oil pickup tubes common to those models. These things need to be checked out on a regular basis or modified to avoid failures that could snowball. GD

You do not need that. Looks like a packaging mistake. GD

Thats crazy. List price is 10.25

Pretty much 100% of those cars needed the short blocks replaced due to bad factory piston rings. There was a class-action suit on it. Inspect VERY carefully. Honestly I would never own one because the dealer tech's were really poor at doing the short block replacements due to lack of training on that new engine - 11 was the first year and it was in Forester's only. I've seen some horrific work with about 10x too much sealant used. Those engines are almost 100% glued together and the factory RTV application is done by robots. The dealer tech's doing it by hand have about 1000 places where a little dab will do you and a big fat glob will $crew you. GD

I've also carefully drilled a hole next to the old spring and added a tiny screw to adjust the pre-load on it. But this takes some precision to accomplish. GD

It's absolutely not ridiculous when all the other gear oils cause grinding and stiffness. We have tried them all. The only thing that works as well is Motul Gear 300. But that's $100 a gallon. And for the record - Lucas products are garbage. Mechanic in a can in general is garbage, but the Lucas stuff does not react inside the transmissions and differentials the way it does in the little store displays. There's quite a body of evidence that it causes failures due to foaming as it changes the properties of the base oil to which it's added. GD

Seriously - I can't think of two worse things in a single space - a VW beetle and an EA82. That's...... awful. PLEASE put it out of it's misery. Rent a backhoe and leave it for archaeologists to ponder in some future which I'm not a part of. I just don't get people - WHY would you want to do this to yourself? Meth was clearly involved. GD

List price from Subaru would only be 51.25 for 5 quarts if you walk into the parts department. GD

It is a GL-5 that is formulated more like a GL-4. It is specially formulated to work with Subaru's brass syncro's and still protect the hypoid differential gears. Unlike most transmissions the Subaru design incorporates aspects of a manual transmission and a hypoid gearset differential into a single unit that shares fluid. GD

You really NEED an acetylene torch for this kind of work. It makes most of this stuff trivial. GD

How good are you with schematics and wiring? That's a very big job. GD

3 and 4 share one side of the coil, and one side of the igniter. You can check resistance on the coil - it's just like any old distributor coil - there's just two in there. Usually they have between a 10,000:1 and 15,000:1 Ohm ratio between primary and secondary coils. If that checks out and there's no corrosion in the plug wires or terminals then you can pretty much rule it out. You can then use a scope to check the signal from the ECU to the igniter, and to check for power and ground. If those check out then the igniter is bad. Otherwise it's possible for the ECU driver circuit to fail also. Just had an ECU failure of the igniter driver on a 98 Forester. It happens. GD

3.7 quarts of Subaru HPGO 75w90. Buy this directly from the Subaru parts department. DO NOT use anything else. Nothing else is equivalent. GD

First gen only, NLA from Subaru, and yes they all do that. There is a spring in the latch that wears it's retaining hole and so hasn't got the correct tension to keep the lock mechanism from interfering with the latch operation. GD

Could be a faulty MAF sensor. They act like that when the get faulty. You need to check for spark, fuel, etc when it dies and won't restart. GD

Have you read the computer for codes? GD

The correct procedure for adjusting the hydraulic lifter rocker assemblies can be found in the 84 factory service manual. I have posted it here in the forum many years ago also. A careful search may come up with such posts. GD

What year and model of Subaru are you looking to get a clutch for? GD

No. The BRZ is a direct injection engine with coil-on-plug ignition, 8 injectors, dual variable valve timing, etc. The crank sensor triggers are different and it has 4 cam sensors, not 1. Also the tuning for them is primarily based around adding forced induction, not tuning NA. GD

There is no way to tune the 2003. Which means its entirely possible (likely I would say) that it will be much too lean at WOT. Too much air, and not enough fuel because the stock mapping (which ignores the O2 feedback at WOT) will not have enough fuel or the correct timing for those modifications. GD

All of that is academic (and not accurate with respect to all designs of LED elements) when tens of thousands of people are using them effectively in the real world. The reviews and pictures and experience of more than one member of this forum speaks for itself. Is it perfect? No. Does it have to be? No. Clearly it does not. And the legality is subjective. Since no one is actually enforcing any laws that might exist preventing people from doing these conversions (and it's unlikely they even *could* enforce them) - much like the academic argument against their effectiveness - it makes zero difference in practice. GD

The position and size of the element in the LED's is exactly the same as the halogen. Just brighter. Much like expensive halogen's are brighter than cheap ones. Same concept. The beam pattern appears identical with proper cut-off. Does the additional brightness reduce your night-vision? Sure it does. But that's a consequence of bright light at night. So does the oncoming traffic with stock HID and LED lighting. It's an arms race of who can have the brightest lighting. The oncoming traffic has already hindered our night vision. The reality, off the engineering drawing board, is that they work great and any slight changes to the beam pattern are inconsequential in practice. We are talking about tens of thousands of happy customers that give these 5 stars. Many of whom are very conscious about all these factors. I understand your concerns but in actual real world comparison the "problems" you site are extremely minor, and have been reduced to the point of no longer being a concern. GD

There are no tuner options for ANY of the Subaru non turbo vehicles except the BRZ. The other exception would be using an Enduring Solutions board on a 20G computer in a 90-94 Legacy. Not a tuner exactly but it would work with some small modifications due to the pinout being essentially the same. GD