GeneralDisorder

This is no longer the case. It *was* the case. That's one of the consequences of the march of progress and technology. It's a moving target, and what was the case yesterday, may not be the case tomorrow. GD

Doesn't matter - roads and driveways are never perfectly flat planes that are level in all directions. 3.7 quarts. These are splash lubed so anything between say 3 and 4 quarts is going to be just fine. There are multiple dip stick part numbers depending on year, turbo or non, etc. The angle of the handle and the length of the tube on the transmission differs. GD

Or you could just spray them with real automotive clear coat - this stuff is two-part mix in a spray can and hardens tough as nails. Basically the same you would do with a gun in a spray booth. I did my whole Trans Am with it. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY GD

You could do it with an 20G computer and an Enduring Solutions (ESL) ROM simulator board. We have several on EJ22T's. One making 380 AWHP with a 257 block and 25D heads, and another making 252 AWHP with a stock 22T and a TD05-16G. GD

Same here. I'm right there with ya. The LED stuff is sooooo much better. I'm slowely upgrading all the lights in my shop also. GD

That's not the case with these IACV's. They are quite reliable - if you buy a good one. As I said they can also be cleaned so buying a $20 cheap one is a waste of $20 and supports an industry built around selling essentially fake parts that don't work and banking on people not bothering to return them or having to buy them often. GD

Carquest and Advance are the same company. And yes it is the retail side that owns Worldpac. GD

Except that the $20 ones typically don't work at all. Or perform incorrectly. Or throw codes. It's not just a "basic" solenoid. It has 6 pins and requires a special dual PWM signal to open and close it. It isn't such an easy thing to reproduce it would seem. How much is your time worth? Not much if you want to screw around with 17 $20 sensors. You see this is the difference between people that make money and people that never seem to have any - those of us that make money don't screw around wasting time on $hit that doesn't work. Also - you have to spend money to make money. That's how it works. Trust me your time is more valuable than $330. Use it to go make some real money and don't bother with picking up the pennies. GD

Autozone is not owned by Worldpac. Autozone had bought Intermotor Corp a while back, couldn't figure out how to integrate quality products into their business model of selling completely overpriced $hit, and sold them to Parts Authority (east coast) Worldpac is owned by Carquest. GD

I have used the HF hub tamer set and while it does work a few times, the steel is soft and after a couple bearings the drive screw began to strip out. As for the HF 20t press. Have one of those also. Can be useful, but there's no way you could actually get it to anywhere near 20 tons. I have a 25 ton two-stage press at my shop with a gauge that tells the tonnage being applied. With that bottle jack handle you would be hard pressed to get to 10 tons before the handle folds in half. On my 25 ton press you have to engage the second stage for anything much more than 5 tons. Though honestly anything on a Subaru going into a press is going to be garbage if you need more than 10 tons to get it apart. GD

Save yourself the headache and just buy one from the dealer. It will actually work. And yes they are about $350. You really begrudge the car a $350 part after 15 years? You *can* clean them. But doing so properly involves powering them up while removed to get the pintle to run out till it disengages... cleaning, regreasing, and then reassembling by applying pressure while again powering it up so it retracts the pintle back into the case.... if you haven't done a few I would just get a new one. GD

The screws come out easily if you rap them with a punch before attempting removal. Also some valve lapping compound on your screwdriver helps. Paper gasket, no sealant. If you don't have the paper you could substitute a non hardening sealant such as Hylomar. VERY small amount. GD

This guy.... Go get yourself a lawyer (we know it's you, not your "bud" - the site logs your IP dumb$hit) You willingly posted your information and your pictures. They are now public domain. Lawyers can't help you "bud". If that were the case, then Facebook would be sued into oblivion. This is the internet pal. Be careful what you post. It will follow you to the grave. GD

9 out of 10 times the lash really isn't an issue. It's that 10% that will get ya. And the added step of pulling out the feeler gauge is worth the few minutes to verify before pulling the cams to get at the head bolts. I bought a one owner, well maintained 97 OBW years ago with 165k and a huge hole a #4 exhaust valve. No real underlying reason for it - just was one of the 10%. HG's had never been done. Just bad luck. GD

Empirical evidence would suggest that the latest technology is much more reliable. But frankly I replace a LOT of burned out incandescent bulbs. Headlights and others. The LED models aren't any more expensive than high output halogen and so either way if you are going to have spares the cost is basically the same. I would still take a low draw LED over a halogen - better output and you'll never melt down a bulb harness. It's a win from all angles. You can retain full backwards compatibility, you get high output, proper beam, low draw, and the same price. I don't see any drawbacks. GD

It probably has a plastic separator plate - that would be enough reason to pull it for the reseal IMO. GD

The HG's can be done in the car. That said - we don't do them that way. It's much harder to properly clean and lube the head bolt threads, and properly clean the block mating surfaces so we just don't do it. And on the DOHC you are fighting the exhaust buckets wanting to fall out of the head. Use really sticky assembly lube if you do it that way. GD

Funny this came back to the top - I just had a customer come in asking for advice with his exhaust install after spending a whole bunch of hours at one of these DIY garages - him and his friend ultimately failed to get his turbo-back installed due to not being adequately prepared with knowledge and tools - broken exhaust studs/nuts ensued and it was an expensive catastrophe. And this was on a 2016 WRX. GD

Actually it isn't. The alternator uses HP and therefore fuel to run. Racers generally turn them off. I have a an alt in my drag car that with a ground signal will reduce its output by 1 volt and rely on the battery surface charge to make up the difference during 1/4 mile runs. There's many reasons - free up amperage for other uses, economy, lower alternator temps, and less taxing on already old wiring to name a few. LED's are far superior to incandescent bulbs. This is a fact. GD

If it IS a dual cam, then yes do the HG's. And FOR SURE check the valve lash. If they are going to burn an exhaust valve it's going to usually happen around 150k to 175k. Don't be that guy - check the lash. Shim adjustment isn't difficult if you can add and subtract. If you have the heads off, you can just pull out the valves that are tight, and grind or have ground the tips to adjust the lash. Lap the seats, change the stem seals, etc. GD

LED's generally last much longer. As in possibly for the life of the car. The one's I linked are fanless with passive heat sinks. Silent, and one less part to fail. They are exceptionally bright. They also draw significantly less amperage. GD

Haven't had any failures. Pattern looks correct. Very bright. Again - check out the reviews. As far as DOT - if the pattern looks correct.... who's going to ask? The police are already blinded by all the late model cars with factory HID and LED equipment. They won't know the difference. And everyone has been very pleased - no complaints about blinding oncoming traffic. One of my tech's has them in his 95 Impreza. Thumbs up. Amazon has very good return policies. You could easily return them if you don't like them. I agree that the HID stuff from a few years ago and some of the first generation LED stuff was terrible. I wouldn't consider an HID kit ever again - ballast failure is common. But the newest generation of these LED products is much better. GD

We do them all the time. They work just fine. Very bright. Check out the thousands of 5 star reviews on Amazon. Read the reviews on the one's I linked and check out the pictures of the beam patterns. They are very similar to halogen. GD

Exedy is OEM. We don't use anything but Exedy or dealer for stock replacement. GD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=beamtech+headlight+bulbs GD