GeneralDisorder

This is the part you need: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1999_Forester-L-25L-MANUAL/CENTER-DIFFERENTIAL-ASSEMBLY/49248160/38913AA102.html And the gasket: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1999_Forester-L-25L-MANUAL/GASKET-TRANSFER/49244588/33179AA030.html And yes you can replace the center diff by removing the rear cover only. GD

Yeah that would probably work - but the Proto has a larger, heavier hammer unit. Can still find them used for now. I feel ya on the '50 Plymouth. I regularly service my mom's '56 Buick Roadmaster. I recently had to deal with poorly balanced reproduction drums. Watch what you buy. One of her (expensive) reproduction drums was 14 oz out of balance. GD

Get LED's. They are awesome. And cheap now. GD

Sounds like the TCU isn't doing anything. Those are the symptoms of an unplugged or not powered TCU. The trans defaults to third gear with line pressure but no electrical control. Make sure all connections are tight to TCU and transmission and that you get an AT Temp light during the bulb check. Check power supplies, grounds, etc. GD

We currently use the OTC Hub Grappler: https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6575-Hub-Grappler-Kit/dp/B004ZG69D2 There are (quite a few) other options. Including the Kent-Moore official service tool: https://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-45697-Hub-Remover-Replacer-Kit-J45697_p_33440.html We use a Proto 4001G hub puller to push out axles that are rusted to the splines. This puller is now discontinued unfortunately and I don't think there are any good alternatives that have the hammer adapter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Proto-Vintage-3-Way-Jaw-Universal-Wheel-Hub-Brake-Drum-Axle-Puller-Set-4001T-B-W/162988591595?hash=item25f2e089eb:g:viwAAOSwACRayqCz GD

99 is a phase II transmission. You have to buy the complete center diff. They are right near $500. GD

It's not that it can't be done - it's that without proper technique and training the potential to damage the knuckle is high. I've replaced deformed knuckles. It's absolutely a thing. I have a two-stage, 25 ton shop press - I *could* do wheel bearings that way. It's simply not the best way. It's also quite a bit faster to do them on the car. Then there is the ball joint or lateral link bolt that may not come off - you can work around a stuck ball joint/lateral link bolt if you do them on-car. It's not pleasant, but it can be done. The car may need these fixed in the future (or possibly not depending on how much life is left in the chassis), and we typically give the customer the option either way. But budgetary constraints may not allow for replacement at the same time. And I don't care either way - pay me now, or pay me more later. It's their choice. Working around it gives me the option of keeping the price low if that's what they prefer. The job is 3.2 hours on-car. It will be just as much or more to remove the knuckle, and may be a LOT more all at once if you have to destroy a ball joint or deal with a lateral link bolt that's frozen. Once you have the tools and the process down - the on-car screw press makes a lot more sense. That's why every shop has one now, and why Subaru only approves that method. As for the grease - NTN makes the bearings for Subaru. So what you are buying white-box NTN/Koyo already has the appropriate grease. Changing the grease adds time and expense to the job and adds no value for the customer. GD

There is a Subaru TSB on bearing installation that explicitly forbids using a press due to the potential of deforming the bearing pocket and ruining the knuckle. The TSB supersedes the FSM. It also needlessly disturbs the alignment in the front. You can read the TSB here: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/rear-wheel-bearing-tsb-03-2249.html?s=3b30a786f4303ff096e840acbd99106d& Incidentally - this TSB also explicitly states to NOT repack the bearing as they are shipped with the appropriate grease. As I've been saying all along. Bearings are $400 without hub, or $450 with replacement hub. Unless its an STI or SVX. Those are more. The dealer charges $750 per each. GD

We scrap excellent condition bodies all the time. No one will buy them with a blown drivetrain. GD

Incorrect method. Should be done using a screw press on the car. GD

Rear wheel bearings. Just do them both. GD

Listen Troll - no one wants your ADVERTISING around here. Plenty of ATF products that meet the ATF-HP standard and many others. At my shop we use exclusively Amsoil full synthetic ATF. It meets every standard out there. They also make an excellent CVT fluid. Much better than anything Valvoline offers. GD

Subaru reman short block - $2300. 3 year / 36k warranty through Subaru Parts. GD

Don't buy from Rockauto. Just resurface what you have and get a clutch kit from the dealer. GD

There is no rubber in those. It's just an open expansion chamber. Also - pretty much all fuel systems today use neoprene based components that are impervious to Ethanol. GD

You can just delete it. It won't make any noticeable difference not having it. GD

Again with the foolishness. Copper isn't needed and will not be of any additional benefit to the EA81. The factory gaskets typically last 300k+ and are cheap. Copper has problems with weeping coolant and without o-ringing the block it's essentially pointless as you only have half the equation for holding serious boost. GD

Carbs idle high when cold. This is normal. Its called a fast idle cam. Usually there are two steps above base idle depending on temp. This is one reason you "set" the choke with at least one accelerator pedal pump prior to cold start. This sets the choke, pulls in the fast idle cam, and primes the venturi with an accelerator pump shot for quick, efficient starting. Milky substance is from crankcase vents - condensation and short run times do this. Its normal. Starters can get stuck partially engaged if the engine doesn't catch. The action of the engine turning faster than the pinion sucks the bendix back into the starter. This is usually not an issue in practice. Lubrication of the starter bendix, reduction gearing, etc is likely needed or perhaps starter replacement. 70+ psi oil pressure is normal for these engines when cold. We *like* to see at least 15-20 psi at idle when up to temp. It should climb to 40+ under acceleration. The factory gauge is NOT to be trusted. They can read high, or low, or not at all. The gauge is way out of calibration at this point and the sending units are a common failure item. GD

If the valves had no clearance I would be guessing burnt exhaust valve(s). 90 psi is very low. Might come up after running though. Make sure its getting oil pressure and run it. GD

Usually it's cylinder wall issues from sitting. The bottom ends are pretty good but all the used stuff out there has sat and got water in the cylinders rendering them useless without a rebuild which is not viable from an economy or parts standpoint. My guess, based on decades of experience with these, is that you will find a rusty mess in those two cylinders and the valves are rusted to the guides. Very unlikely any of it will be salvageable. The intake gaskets fail and dump coolant (or whatever was in there) into the intake, and down the cylinders through any open valves. GD

All you really need is two flat head screwdrivers. Sheesh. Ain't no kill like overkill though. GD

They are not interference. You can't get valves for them anymore. Not even from Subaru. Very few parts are available in general for EA series cars other than from the junk yard. A customer of mine has gone through 6 used engines trying to find a viable bottom end, etc. So far his car still isn't on the road. GD

Peak HP has little to do with which carb you use so long as its not too small or too large and its properly jetted. Now that lame plumbing isle intake he's got cobbled on there is likely going to increase low end torque from being stupid long and poor flowing. The flow velocity will be high at lower volume. Leading to an increase in torque. Which will definitely feel like more power down low. It will lose out in the higher RPM when airflow increases. The Weber is much easier and can easily be done for under $200 if you start with a used carb and a rebuild kit. They come quite well jetted out of the box. Usually requiring only changing the idle jet if you have any other performance mods. GD

Backfiring out the carb is a sign of combustion taking place on an open intake valve. Likely to be valve problems. 82 does not have hydraulic lifters. And in any case they get loose not tight as their pressure bleeds down. GD

The large diesel turbochargers are actually much easier to work on. The parts are larger, and the shaft speeds are slower - the larger the diameter of the turbine, the less RPM it takes before the blade tips cross the sound barrier and effectively stop moving air (compressor surge). Tiny turbos have tiny parts, and tiny oil passages, and spin at ridiculously high speeds. 150,000 RPM on the smaller stuff. So balancing to a much higher precision is required - something the diesel turbo guys often don't have the equipment or expertise to perform. And typically these tiny units are not "rebuilt" but rather just replaced with a completely new rotating assembly. This moves the complex assembly and balancing process into a clean production environment with ISO standards. Ultimately the shop bought a cheap junk Chinese CHRA. They need to contact their supplier and get reimbursed. GD