GeneralDisorder

Too thin. Bad idea. Get real lift blocks. GD

That is a natural consequence of the pressure plate applying *pressure* (it's job) to the disc. Those are springs and they flatten out with more pressure - ie: thicker disc. So a worn out disc or a pressure plate removed from the flywheel will always have that crown to it. While an assembled pressure plate with a new disc will be basically flat. This is the reason behind the cable requiring adjustment as the clutch disc wears. GD

On the aftermarket fob's only the lock/unlock buttons work. But they do work and they are cheap. ANY fob that works with GOH-M24 will work with your system. Including ones that have chrysler, ford, or chevy emblems on them. GD

No an EA82 will not "swap right in". The EA81T is fuel injected and its not compatible with the EA82. The injectors are in the heads, not the manifold - along with about 1000 other differences. Neither will the manual transmission for that matter. The floor pan won't clear without modification, you will need a pedal assembly, driveline, and possibly a different rear diff - not to mention clutch, flywheel, and then wiring for the reverse lights, and ignition system to allow it to start.... Too much work. It's not worth it. Naru - yours doesn't count in the grand scheme. This guy doesn't have your skill level. And overall the 3AT is not that reliable. I'm sure eventually you will eat one. That's why there are so few left - only 4 speed cars - which is crazy because the 4 speed was junk also. GD

Get King springs. And 04 Forester struts. GD

You just need a fob to program. Look on ebay for any fob with FCC ID number GOH-M24. As to the behavior of the CODE alarm system - it has many options controlled by DIP switch settings inside the control module. Read up on the installation instructions, get a fob, and program it however you like. GD

Not reliable at this age, and ZERO parts are available for the EA81T. This is not a viable driver. Collectible and or restoration project - dubious but possible if you really like pain and anguish and being severely frustrated. They made that engine for only 2 model years and they are extremely RARE. Also only has 90 HP so the whole turbo setup is completely pointless. No tuning can be done, and if you turn it up you'll just blow it up. Yes the automatic is junk. The 3AT had problems with pump drive shaft splines, and governor gear wear... no parts available for that either. GD

PS uses no engine power unless you are steering. That's how the system works. It doesn't develop any pressure till pressure is required to do actual steering. GD

Depends on what you are lifting. They look like a problem to me. GD

If it's not misfiring - possibly plugged cat. New exhaust makes that more likely IMO if it's aftermarket parts. GD

The ABS on a 95 isn't worth having - it's more dangerous in some situations. Leave the system disabled and pull the bulb from the cluster. GD

Buy individual gaskets from the dealer. The aftermarket gaskets are generally junk. GD

Replace the filler neck - you really want it leaking fuel and smelling? I mean it's not the economy issue but still - that's silly. GD

Could be a bad gauge but you won't know till you double check the gauge input on the back of the cluster. Could be a solder joint issue also. Japanese stuff always has problems with cracked solder joints. They are still fighting this issue - 05-08 Legacy's routinely have the map light assembly cause SRS codes due to cracked solder joints. GD

SPFI pistons and a Weber. Stop there because anything more is diminishing returns and carries high risk if you split the block, etc. The SPFI, while nice for year-round cold starts, does not give as much low end torque, and is becoming difficult to get parts for. Redline makes all the Weber parts and will for the foreseeable future. GD

Cables, connections, starter motor brushes, wrong starter gear reduction, etc. Sounds like it has good compression and the starter isn't applying sufficient force. GD

That's normal when you go from a worn out disc to a new disc. You just needed to adjust the clutch cable. That's a normal part of a clutch job. GD

That is the breather line for the fuel tank. It's basically just vacuum line that's fuel vapor rated. Not high pressure. GD

Why not the cam support o-ring and the distributor cover o-ring? Be very wary of any PCV valve not from Subaru. They eat engines. Sounds pretty normal to me. Not exactly "ultimate". Though at that mileage it might have been smart to just do the HG's. We see them fail around 250k if not sooner. GD

You didn't pull the fork to grease the pivot ball?!? Sounds like you need to do it for real this time. Consider that a dry run. GD

Could be anything. Start with the cable. Is it connected to the fork?

If they were over torqued they would be stretched, stripped, or broken. Sounds like you need a bigger cheater pipe. GD

Exactly. I wasn't clear - the detents hold the fork in position, but the bearing holds the shaft and when that moves it pushes the rod off the detents by applying a counter force to the fork. The gear teeth are helical cut and apply axial loads to the shaft. GD

1/4 turn before it breaks. That's not something you typically toque. GD

The shift rod can't be pushed out of it's detent without shaft alignment problems typically. And that's almost always the rear input shaft bearing. Synro's being worn will only result in grinding. They don't retain the shift fork in position. That's the job of the detent balls and springs on the shift rod. 3 and 4 use the same rod/fork. GD