GeneralDisorder

I have had those exact two bosses welded due to the same collision damage. Steven of Inferno Fabrications had no trouble at all. But he is VERY good with TIG in general. He has welded cracked AVLS pressure switch bosses IN THE CAR with perfect results. The man is an artist. Given his skills I have no problem handing him that block. GD

Well the best welder I know is in St. Helens: http://www.infernofab.com There is also Bearing Service Co. in Portland. I'm sure Brian could do it but it likely won't be as cheap. GD

I have personally used denatured alcohol multiple times here in Oregon. It is very effective at reducing hydrocarbons. I dont know about Ohio but it works here. GD

You want emissions hose. It does exist. GD

For about $100 you can get a head unit and adapter harness, etc that will be light years ahead of that ancient junk. The 6 disc in-dash unit is notoriously junk. Cracked solder joints and they like to not eject discs, etc. GD

Cylinder head shops are usually quite adept at cast aluminium welding. I have had that exact scenario fixed before. My cost was $100. GD

Username checks out. Without diagnostic trouble code (DTC) can't help you. GD

Take the block to a machine shop or cylinder head shop that is familiar with welding cast aluminium. It will be SOFT when they are done and you MUST heli-coil the holes. Either that or spend about $4k - $8k on a TIG setup and expect a big learning curve. Learn on old water pumps. GD

Yes that is a 2.2 Turbo block from a 91 to 94 USDM Legacy turbo. Those ran 8.5 psi stock and can handle 25+ easily with upgraded internals. 4 psi is extremely conservative. In stock form they lasted virtually forever. GD

Easy job. Drain coolant, pull manifold - takes about 30 minutes. Replace o-rings. Clean gasket surfaces, replace manifold. At a shop this should take no more than 2-3 hours and the gaskets are about $20 for all of em. From the dealer. $350 tops. And thats a pretty high estimate. Dealer is one of the WORST places to take a Subaru. GD

Like I said - it's going to come down to cheap turbo parts. The shop should be made aware of the outcome of the repair.

You need to tighten all the flexplate bolts. It will pull the torque converter away from the starter pinion. GD

Failure is rare. Replace only the bad coil. GD

Probably needs O2 sensor, knock sensor, and a cat. If that doesn't clean it up, go for about 25% denatured alcohol. GD

OE isn't necessary - just quality. You can't make big HP if you stick to OE. We use Melett for factory turbo CHRA's, and we stick to Blouch for performance upgrades. GD

They key always twists to the drivers side. Leaving the passenger edge of the keyway intact. You simply clean up the mess, install a new key, and it will bear against the good passenger edge of the keyway when tightening. The key will be held just fine because three corners are held by the new sprocket, and one good edge. It will tighten up just fine and once the bolt is tightened to 150 ft/lbs the key is meaningless. GD

You should not use ATF. It does not have adequate high pressure protection for the hypoid differential. GD

Just use Subaru HPGO. You don't need any additives. GD

Not all gear oils produce the same feel regardless of their weight. GD

Motul Gear 300 is nice also. But kind of like wiping your a$$ with silk scarves for this application. GD

Start with changing the gear oil to Subaru HPGO. GD

Oh I knew what the conclusion was going to be. But thank you. GD

120k is not really a premature failure though. Even if they had to be done twice as often - not really enough of an issue to go out of the way to "correct" on a vehicle that is only seeing enough abuse to have a failure after 120k. If they were failing once a season I might consider some type of upgrade. Otherwise it's a waste of time for anything that isn't a full-on race car and isn't seeing regular failures. And if that's the case - upgrade to STI knuckles. If higher temps are being seen then simply changing the grease really isn't enough because the thermal growth will cause too much load inside the bearing assembly. At that point you need to loosen up the clearances with a spacer shim between the bearing cone's. Probably change the grease and the cage material as well. Or just get bigger brakes that don't get as hot. Air ducts to cool them also. GD

Yep that's your problem. Either put the old one back on if the rear cover wasn't leaking, or get one from the dealer. GD

They are very nice. Definitely worth the price in my opinion. Extra 1.5 quart capacity and the new version is cast aluminium. Fitment is virtually perfect. You need a wobbly 10mm 1/4" drive socket. Pull the intercooler, pitch stop, and jack the engine as far out of the cradle as you can. If you want or need engine mount upgrades (we like Cusco but be warned they are pretty much full race mounts and you will get some vibration) thats the time to do them also. GD