GeneralDisorder

Sure I could order you jets. They arent expensive. You should try a 60 or 65 idle jet. Will help with progression from idle to mains. GD

What I meant was that it has no effect on distributor operation. The tach signal is an output used by several devices like the ECU and FPCU. The distributor has no inputs that rely on the ECU. Choke power could be ECU related depending on how the Weber was wired. GD

The ECU has no connection to the distributor. None whatsoever. GD

TAMA is the OEM for thermostats. Generally these aren't sold outside wholesale channels though. Easiest source for most people is the dealership. GD

Yes - I agree. The difference is that if you *want* a better brand, they don't offer it. And now with their sale of IMC to Parts Authority, they will no longer have access to the good Japanese brands that IMC carries. GD

I can put together a customized kit for you with the RIGHT parts and have it drop shipped for about $325. The Redline kits don't come with the right parts or the correct idle jetting. PM me if you want to order. But yeah - that's the price. You aren't going to find genuine Weber cheaper and if you do it will end up costing more because the kit's everyone else sells are off the shelf packaged Redline and aren't complete or correctly fitting. GD

Sankei (555 Auto Group) is the OEM manufacturer. Part number SR-6610 for the inner. Though I am unable to source one at this time. Perhaps other suppliers may have one in a back room. When they were in stock (may have been several years) I show a price of $14.74 Outers..... SE-6611L, and SE-6611R. Worldpac has one Left outer in their Clearance bin for $8.94. It's in Newark, CA. GD

Non-dealer thermostat, partially clogged radiator, cheap water pump..... check them in that order. GD

We buy all the components individually. Although we have arranged special pricing with our distributor because we buy such volume and the kits aren't built the way we want them. GD

Gates (one of the many reasons I no longer trust them) publishes a document stating they are TTY and require replacement. The FSM says to inspect them and replace if damaged. We have a big box of head bolts. When we need one - typically due to thread damage/corrosion - we just grab what we need and put it through the parts washer with the rest. I have probably only bought one or two in all the years. Over 500 HP we use ARP studs. Otherwise we just use whatever used bolts we have from the previous engine, etc. I've never even heard of a bolt failure in all my years. Block threads are another story. I charge straight out the a$$ for stripped head bolt threads. It's not a fun repair and requires custom made tooling. The dealer will throw the block away if a head bolt hole strips out. It's a non-recoverable failure to them. GD

I would tend to think this is not correct behavior so I doubt changing the TCU would help much. The Duty-C itself may not be the problem - could be the transfer clutch pack is slipping at low Duty-C frequency. There is a port on the transmission you can use to check transfer clutch line pressure and correlate that to duty cycle. If you see low line pressure it could be an indication of a leak, or a poor transfer clutch piston seal, or just low line pressure which would generally be a replace transmission situation unless you want to do a complete tear down on it. I've done TH-350's, 400's, and 700R's, etc but the insides of the Subaru automatic (past the gates of the transfer clutch) are a bit of a no-mans-land where few enter, and virtually no one returns..... GD

No - some of the phase I Impreza models used a TCU with only two connectors. While the rest of the Phase I's used a three connector TCU. Look it up - you'll see. Lookup a 95 Impreza TCU. GD

Autozone parts are generally complete garbage. You are better off shopping at Advance Auto. They own Worldpac, and have access to a range of much better brands. Autozone sold a neighboring shop a PCV valve for a used engine they bought from me (I sent the engine over with the original and would have suggested they get a factory part, but they didn't ask) - the valve failed and burned up all the engine's oil in 600 miles. Rod knock ensued. This shop spends $50,000 a year with Autozone, and they said - "The customer should have checked the oil level - warranty claim denied". The customer was a little old lady in her 80's. GD

Check the connections on the TCU first - the Forester is Impreza based and those usually won't interchange with Legacy's. Two plug vs. three plug IIRC. GD

I think you meant they are *not* torque to yield. Yield implies plastic deformation of the bolt: A torque to yield fastener (TTY) is mounting hardware in the form of a fastener which is torqued beyond the state of elasticity and therefore undergoes plastic deformation, causing it to become permanently elongated. GD

The auto's were junk, so no surprise it's not working. The 81 4 speed is also junk. So wouldn't be worth your time to install. What you want is a 5 speed from an 85 to 89. GD

Gates - junk. FelzPro - junk. Dealer - good. Use 770 part number HG's. Head bolt - reuse. GD

Contact Inferno Fabrications. He makes J pipes with quality cats and stands behind them. http://www.infernofab.com/ You can also just throw in a fake cat, or even hollow out the shell of what you have and use a $15, 90 degree spacer in the rear O2 sensor to kill the code. https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Angled-Engine-Exhaust-Extension/dp/B00B1U6I54 GD

You can love on the guy all you want. He built a "lift" for my wagon about 18 years ago and it was complete $hit. I had to rebuild the whole thing. His work is aweful and he's a hack at best. Got fired from Marathon Coach many years back for being a tool there too. Had an ANGRY MOB out for blood around the country for parts, lifts, and what amounts to theft for taking their money and delivering absolutely nothing. As a general rule I don't have unhappy, let alone ANGRY customers. Sometimes people have unrealistic or unreasonable expectations but usually they realize this and don't choose to publicize their stupidity because deep down they know..... you can't please all the people. But an angry internet mob culminating in you being permanently BANNED from this forum for unscrupulous business dealings is another thing entirely. The stuff he "builds" is far from good. You should check out what really good shops produce. GD

Get it running on the stock computer, then switch to the ESL system after you know it runs. GD

Post in the wanted section - I bet someone has a parts car you can pull exhaust from cheap. You will have to buy private party if you want a cat. Or just drop it, hollow it out, and put it back on. Order a new muffler to go with hollowed out y-pipe. They are cheap. Ashland has no emissions and its not like it pollutes more than a WRX with catless exhaust which is like 50% of them in this state. GD

Yeah but he probably doesn't know what he's looking at on the vacuum gauge. We use O2 sensor adapter and pressure gauge for suspected exhaust restriction. But then we do a lot of turbo cars and that makes the manifold vacuum much harder to interpret because positive pressure can be normal. GD

You can't just slide under it, loosen the header, and drive around the block? Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. You can't borrow a 14mm from someone and take 15 minutes to perform this test till several weeks from now? This I don't understand unless you are physically unable to do it from a disability or some such? You have to have the can-do attitude before you can fix anything. Get out there and make it happen. You know I would.... GD

Just loosen the header - all you need is a 14mm socket, 6" extension, and a ratchet. Don't remove it just drop it down 1/8" or so. Plugged exhaust is rare on Subaru factory cats but happens frequently on aftermarket muffler shop cats, and factory GM and Chrysler cats do this all the time. It's definitely a possibility and very easy to rule out. GD

What is the symptom you are attributing to plugged exhaust? Lack of power?