GeneralDisorder

Hello? McFly? Check the valve lash. GD

Specifically, if the cable is too tight it will cause all kinds of idling problems. It needs to be LOOSE. GD

Check the tension on your accelerator cable. GD

Interesting. I use a load-pro at times also. Most people don't have one so I didn't mention it. Usually with those systems you turn on and off the key rapidly about 5 times and it disables the alarm. Sounds like the alarm is triggered and you don't have a FOB to turn it off, etc. GD

Agreed! We run Amsoil's high zinc oils in everything and anything modified or raced gets Dominator. Catalytic converters may not appreciate it long term, but engines are a lot more expensive than converters. GD

If you got a heater circuit code at 160k, then you need a new upstream O2 sensor. If you got a P0300 that's a horse of a different color and there are many causes - start with NGK plugs and wires and go from there. GD

You don't need seals - they are factory Viton. DO NOT TOUCH them. They will never leak. If you want a kit - Aisin is ok. Otherwise just buy the individual pieces. Koyo, NTN, NSK, Aisin, Mitsuboshi. GD

If its coming from the top then its likely to be the AVLS pressure switch. GD

No they are not.

Go back to basics - have you checked for +12v on the solenoid wire to the starter while holding the key in the crank position? Use an incandescent test light for this to give the circuit some load. If you get a bright test light then the problem is either the starter solenoid, or the battery cables. GD

The coil pack is setup for wasted spark and the cylinders are paired 1/2 and 3/4 so likely you have a coil pack that is developing a problem when hot. GD

Assuming they aren't squished to oblivion.... and you want to get out the torch to anneal a $0.30 copper crush washer. Time is money and that's more than $0.30 worth of time and maybe more than $0.30 worth of propane. GD

Foreign engines inc in Lynnwood Washington has EJ25 short blocks for about $900. They are from JDM EJ254's. They are a direct swap for the USDM 251/253. The EJ20 has no power and fuel economy will suffer with the USDM gearing, etc. GD

EA82's do not have a rolling element in contact with the camshaft. It applies to all of them. It also applies to EJ22's except 97+ as well as all EJ quad cam engines up and including current model year. I have seen pitted cams from junk oil on many 2000+ engines. Quality, clean oil is not optional on Subaru engines - at least not for long. GD

You dont need to add zinc if you run high ZDDP oil. Amsoil 10w40 premium protection for example, or z-rod, or some of their other products. Yes they are flat tappet cams and yes the lifters will be damaged without sufficient ZDDP. Had to have a set reground not long ago because of wear. Oregon Cam Grinders does them - $5 per lifter. GD

You need to replace the rings. There was a class action suit on these. The early FB engines had faulty piston rings. The dealers just swap the short block. GD

They are not available. You will need to have them reground. GD

We replace the crush washer with a new copper one every time. Cost less than 1/3 of the dealer unit and just as effective in my experience. Not that its a great savings but we buy them in bulk. The dealer ones come in little plastic bags one at a time - takes forever to unwrap them all. We buy them in boxes of 50. Time is money and fiddling with 50 little baggies.... GD

Three Bond 1217H

At that point, anything you do should involve forged pistons. Just swap in forged pistons, and replace the head gaskets. Dont really need a new bottom end. We do this all the time. We have good luck with JE pistons - they seem to slap the least. 2618 alloy. The Blouch 18GXTR with the 8cm housing is the sweet spot IMO. Makes about 370 wheel. GD

Full synthetic. Any competent MECHANIC can do it - read reviews, etc. Walmart and oil change chain stores are to be avoided - these people are clueless. Dealer lube techs aren't much better than Walmart. If you think a real mechanic is doing it at the dealer.... LOL. GD

You need tuning, and that isnt going to happen on the stock ECU. What experience do you have with fuel injection and how comfortable are you with ugly wiring projects? This will largely dictate your options. You also really need to lower the compression.... Subaru engines dont handle detonation AT. ALL. The first time you run into any amount of detonation while tuning will result in squirting the rod bearings right out of it. The factory cast pistons are weak and you will shear off the ring landings if you push them. Ultimately - just figure on the learning process taking at least two to three engines before you figure it out. Everyone that gets into tuning Subarus wrecks about three engines give or take. GD

Usually that's oil mixing with condensation or rain water, etc. It's probably a slow oil leak, etc. Have to pull the heat shields and trace it. GD

I've never seen it. And I do about 2-3 head gasket replacements per week for the last 10 years. I would have to say, without more proof, that either they were replaced incorrectly and you haven't got the records, or it's a mis-diagnosis. Given the number of these I've seen I would have to say it's virtually 0%. And every time I think I've found the outlier that would prove otherwise - some idiot has been into it and screwed it up. EVERY. TIME. GD

90 to 98 are direct fit. What you want is a late 98 Outback model with the 4.444 ratio and matching rear diff (get rear axles too). GD