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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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You can only use another 95 ECU. It's completely distinct and one year only. The behavior of it sounds like potentially a faulty ignition switch. Basically it's not sending power to the ECU when cranking. Only when in the run position. Thus the brief injector pulse while the engine is spinning down as you release the switch back to run. Check all your 12v inputs to the ECU with the ignition switch in both run and start. GD
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How do I wire up '95 EJ 22 just for spark?
GeneralDisorder replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It isn't OBD-II. We didn't get those in the states (ours were OBD-II) so I can't help with any diagrams. We went from the 4 plug ECU's to the single plug ECU's from 94 to 95. GD -
One Old Webber; choke worn out?
GeneralDisorder replied to PA Grown's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Just grab a new carb. They are only $200. You'll be way more than that into an SPFI swap. Not to mention weeks of frustration. Trust me I wrote the conversion manual for that setup. Parts just aren't available anymore, and the Weber has better throttle response and low end torque - larger effective throttle bore when you slam open the secondary. GD -
Check the bulkhead harness connectors between the manifold and body harness. Not unusual to see corrosion on the pins. Also check the ground points on the manifold, and then look at if you are losing the ground signal from the ECU or the 12v injector supply voltage. Could also be cam/crank sensor signals or a faulty ECU (check inside for moisture or corrosion) But check injector wiring first. GD
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Amsoil was first to market with synthetics by several years. Mobil 1 isn't what it used to be. They have watered down the additive package in order to meet API requirements and remain the factory fill in several production applications like the Corvette and Mercedes. Amsoil routinely beats it in analysis results. The EJ257 nitrided crankshaft is only a little over $300. But I would not reccomend anyone to attempt a rebuild without hands on training. It's not straightforward. GD
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It's true they aren't cheap. But.... "fast, reliable, or cheap - pick two". I would say the best way to go if budget is a concern is hit up the local junk yards - they usually sell good batteries for $20 or so. Then go on Amazon and get yourself a battery blanket, oil pan heater, and a trickle charger. GD
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Get an Odyssey battery and put it in your Baja when you get it back. Give the kid your old one. They use the same battery. Nothing beats an Odyssey. Optima's are junk since they sent production to mexico and Interstate, Costco, etc are all just Johnson Controls garbage that's lucky to last 4 or 5 years. Odyssey design life is 12-15 years, and they handle open circuit storage for up to 2 years without discharge. GD
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Stick with the 4 cylinder. The H6 is extremely expensive to work on once it needs things like timing chain covers resealed and head gaskets replaced. When you get another one, have the head gaskets done with 770's, the oil pump changed to a 10mm, and all the timing replaced with Japanese. And for the love of Subarus - stop using Lucas oil stabilizer. And Mobil 1 is junk. Get some Amsoil Premium Protection 10w40 and the Amsoil filter. GD
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EJ22's typically need head gaskets somewhere between 200k and 250k. Excellent maintenance may push that out but I had the best maintained 22 I've ever seen in for head gaskets at 286k. They wear out. Abuse makes them wear out faster. Simply the truth. But it's only a gasket. Not the end of the world nor should it be the end of the machine. I own the one that had them done at 286k now and it has 317k and still runs like new. GD