GeneralDisorder

You need to perform a pressure test of the cooling system, and check the coolant for dissolved exhaust gasses. If coolant was seen outside of the engine then like as not you have a leak and that's it. If, after fixing the leak (which, BTW, if it is the water pump, should run around $800 for a timing belt/water pump/reseal - done correctly by a Subaru specialist - this is an interference engine and things like cam support o-rings, cam seals, crank seal, idlers, tensioner, etc should all be replaced), it still has issues and no external leaks - you will need to replace the head gaskets. Honestly with that mileage you are best off doing the head gaskets. Doing them the right way will cost about $2000 if you pay to have it done - more if you need radiator, hoses, and a clutch while it's out. It can be done yourself, but sounds like you haven't the will to do so. It would require some investment in tools and help from the forum here but it's certainly not difficult. GD

Extremely desirable. Likely to get $25k or perhaps more to the right buyer. GD

Just that engine, and probably the EA stuff. Not enough demand to tool up for production. Buying them from the guys already tooled fills out their catalog and frees them to make profitable (junk) like the 251 gaskets, They focus on trying to get the public to believe they can make a better part than Subaru (Nippon Reinz) for problem applications. EJ22 and EA stuff is neither super problematic, nor in any kind of high demand. I bet they have less than 50 in stock in the entire country for those applications at any given time. GD

Similar. They both have center diffs. The AWD trans has an additional viscous coupler that acts like a limited slip device. The FT4WD is simply an open diff (some were lockable). Or in the case of the Automatic model it's exactly the same transmission only the name changed. GD

No one makes any parts to do this. Honestly why bother doing it? The engine makes about 65 HP. It doesn't need rear disc brakes, and already has front discs. If you want to do it, you will have to find the parts we have already told you to find. That's the only viable way. And changing the lug pattern on a first gen just isn't going to happen without spending a LOT of money having custom parts made. Or invest in a mill, a lathe, and about 20 years of machinist experience and make them yourself. Plenty of YouTube videos to get you started. GD

Also: "when people suggest an EJ conversion, my date puckers * up at the way higher price of an EJ clutch over EA" Non sequitur. Your facts are uncoordinated. EJ swaps use the EA clutch kit. GD

5v signal from ECU is fed through a potentiometer and is then read by the ECU as a throttle position based on the voltage output of the pot. It also includes an idle switch to tell the ECU that the throttle is closed. GD

For that application, Fel-Pro is filling their catalog by buying Nippon Reinz gaskets so they are OEM I think. But in general Fel-Pro isn't to be trusted on imports. They say the head bolts have to be replaced on EJ's for example which is completely false. GD

OEM is Nippon Reinz. Fel-Pro is garbage for imports. GD

Those are dealer only. GD

Best option by far is a reman short block from Subaru. They run about $2100. Or replace rings and head gaskets on your existing engine. Used is a crapshoot and JDM is still used. GD

Like I said these engines burn oil like they are coal fired. Needs new rings. Betcha. GD

If it's down more than 1.25 quarts or so, it won't read on the dip-stick no matter how many times you stab it. She didn't check it if it was that low. No way. GD

The ECU board install is super easy. And yes we have three of them running and there are others in the US. It's absolutely the best option for tuning the early cars. Like I said - Megasquirt will just end in either frustration and never getting it to run, or a rod bearing failure when you pound the bottom end to death with poor knock control. GD

99 2.2 is going to be closer to 4.5 quarts - I think officially they were 4.2. If you put in 4.5 it will be fine. Don't worry about it so much. As long as it's between the low and full marks you're fine. That engine is completely different. They are VERY prone to burning oil. Watch it closely. GD

AN is 37 degree flare. As is JIC. GD

I was never able to get MS to recognize the Subaru cam and crank triggers and sync correctly. We found a better solution that retains factory knock control so gave up on MS. Check out Enduring Solutions in the UK. They make a sweet EPROM simulator board for the early WRX ECU's which are pin compatible with the 90-94 Legacy USDM harness. Gives you all the benefits of real time emulation tuning on factory hardware. Correctly tuned knock control is essential on a Subaru as they make no power without a $hit ton of timing and if you detonate them you will pound the bearings right out. Not worth the risk. GD

-3 AN stainless braided brake line works just fine. We use it all the time for turbo oil feed. GD

You have to call them. Price is probably around $200 give or take. GD

Yes send your old unit to Philbin Manufacturing here in Portland. Will cost more but you will get the best quality rebuild that can be bought. GD

Dual cam block will be fine. Use the 25D gasket for 10.5 compression. Not a good gasket for longevity but will run fine. GD

It won't be good. 11.5:1 compression will not last long. You will break and melt pistons. This IS NOT a workable combination with pump gas. It doesn't have enough cam or quench to run without hurting itself. GD

My compression figure IS using that gasket. Which makes it even more prone to detonation because the quench will be obscenely large. This is not a good candidate for a performance build. It will pull so much timing you won't make any power. And will likely melt a piston eventually. GD

If this were easily possible some fart smeller would have already made millions dontcha think? You need a serious overhead wash rack and chemicals to strip salts.... which may be nearly as bad as the salts themselves. You can go with an oil-like treatment that attempts to prevent the salt from getting to the paint, etc. Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protectant is a dry wax coating that works well as an undercoat. But ultimately.... If you intend to actually use it in the snow - no you can't save it. It's uni-body and once that junk gets in the pinch welds it will rot it from the inside out. It's metal - it can be repaired but eventually it will be more repair than original car. And patch panels for 80's Subarus are not likely to be produced. Custom, which means expensive. GD

The factory gaskets will not bond to the surfaces that quickly. They could be reused easily if doing manifold R&D. GD