GeneralDisorder

You want around 20 CFM for media blasting, painting, die grinding, etc. These have very heavy requirements. You will want a minimum of 5 HP (~4 CFM per HP for a recip). Something with a Baldor commercial duty motor. 80 gallon tank is pretty nominal. Vertical tank models take up the least space. I don't know what tractor supply carries but if they can get Quincy that's probably your best bet. Honestly the best thing to do is get yourself on Craigslist and find a used Quincy QR25 and swap it over to single phase if it's not already. Rebuild the air-end and someday hand it down to your grandkids. Porter Cable makes nothing worth buying. Chinese crap all of it. Amercian iron is where its at for this tool catagory. Get an old QR-325, 5 HP thumper and you'll never worry about air again. Also you can talk over it running in the background since they only run about 700 RPM. GD

Odd. I've never seen one in paper format. Only through 94. I'm guessing most dealers didn't opt for paper manuals. It's also generally a lot more expensive. My 91 Legacy 6 volume set was over $300 originally. At any rate you can get the digital copies for free and PDF's have search capabilities, etc. And paper is just a click away to the laser printer. GD

There are two different water pumps for the EA82. Factory AC cars, and Non-AC or dealer AC cars. You need the one applicable to your accessories. GD

The updated part number is made by Redline Weber (division of World-Pac) and is 32-36DGEV GD

Those engines like to burn oil. Watch it closely. If it does there's no solution but to replace the rings and only the dealer sells rings for that oddball phase-II single port EJ222. They also have the same head gasket problems as the 99 to 10 EJ251/2/3/4, etc but I don't think they got updated gaskets in 02 like the 251 did.... so probably Cometic is the next best choice. That engine is HIGHLY interference so make sure the timing belt is maintained or you'll be replacing 16 valves. All those manual suck. Go to sl-i.net and download the FSM. It's free. All Subaru manuals since 95 are electronic ONLY - they never printed them. Print the section you are working on. Trust me this is much better. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU Online dealers like subarupartsforyou.com, etc. are the best for parts. Subaru is HEAVILY discontinuing parts for 90's and early 2k's models right now - if dealers return stock of those parts they are instructed to smash them beyond use and dumpster it. Get what you need soon. GD

There's a little known warranty part number for '06+ cars..... SOA635112 You just have to find a dealer that will order it. Or ebay/Amazon it. Technically I think they are supposed to provide a VIN to SOA.... my dealer has sold them to me no questions asked though. https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oem-parts/subaru-campaign-wqd40-front-pipe-with-primary-catalytic-converter-vin-required-soa635112 Hilarious anecdote - Subaru calls this the "Pretzel Type" manifold/converter. LOL GD

It could have come from oncomming traffic as well. Look - I get that people have no real clue how products are made, but you have to realize two things. First - Subaru, along with every other car maker on earth, DOES NOT MAKE GLASS. They order it from a glass manufacturer- same as everyone else. Second - automotive windshield glass is essentially so highly regulated due to crash test standards, as to be virtually out of the hands of vehicle manufacturers. It's neither made BY Subaru, nor is it made FOR Subaru. It's made to meet mandated standards and simply shaped and cut to the dimensions each manufacturer requires. Windshields break - it happens. It doesn't have to be anyone's fault. It may seem like the rock came out of nowhere, but that is highly unlikely. I've never seen a Subaru of any vintage have a windshield crack for no reason at all. Rocks are highly irregular in shape, and glass will break easily if enough pressure is concentrated on a small enough point. The right rock with the right mass, speed, and a small enough point of contact will make short work of doing the cracking. GD

So you are saying that because you didn't see it, and because, in your opinion you were too far for an "object" of unknown size and unknown velocity (because you didn't see it) to have broken a (hypothetically non-subaru) windshield, therefore the Subaru windshield was either exceptionally weak, or improperly installed by the robots at the assembly plant.... despite there being clear evidence of a high velocity (I have a hard time seeing bullets whizzing by also) impact to the glass.....riigghhht. It is not a conspiracy against you. Trust me it's just an unfortunate rock damage incident. It happens to everyone. Complicated, late model electronics, when they get broken by acts of god, are expensive to fix. This is one of the many reasons I don't personally own anything newer than 99. Too much foolishness and ridiculous electronics to needlessly complicate my life. Thanks but no. Its enough that I have to fix this junk on a daily at my shop. GD

See the thing is - glass breaks when you hit it with things like huge rocks. It's funny like that. GD

It's an 8.7:1 compression ratio. You can run it on elephant piss if you had some handy. You will get no benefit from octane higher than 87. The rating in the manual is very likely a RON vs. MON issue. Here in the US we average the two ratings while in many other countries they use the higher of the for more better advertising I guess... GD

Cats are cheap. Engines aren't. And most of the turbocharged cars we build either run no cat or have "high flow cats" that are just there for visual. We run high ZDDP oils on virtually anything we care about making power and living. Usually 15w50 or or 10w40 depending on what power level and if it's street or strip use. GD

Having done this swap (I wrote the manual), I can tell you that the Weber has better performance. With availibilty of parts becoming much more difficult a Weber now makes a lot more sense than SPFI. GD

No. 2006 is the farthest back you can go. Subaru sells reman short blocks with 3 year / 36k warranty for about $2100. Best deal going hands down. GD

We use Three Bond 1217H. It's the official current Subaru supercesion for all previous RTV's. It's a bit darker and maybe slightly more firm than Ultra Grey. It's also rated for ATF like the previous 1217B. I don't think Ultra Grey is the best choice for tranny pans. GD

Did you perform a compression test? GD

Yes I have personally passed them in Oregon and Washington. GD

Surface Roughness gauge (profilometer): Ordered GD

No way are the 25D's in the 8's. They are around 9.5 GD

We probably do charge more. Especially given the cost of living differences between our locations. The difference is that we provide better *value* in that we spend the customer's money wisely where it's needed, and not where it isn't. Just like knurling piston skirts instead of buying new pistons. That's due to experience and knowing what truly matters for longevity and what doesn't as well as knowing how to perform tasks without incurring unnecessary labor such as disassembling camshaft carriers, etc. It allows us to charge less overall labor for the job, and keep the job in house as much as possible. That's why I bought and shipped a piston knurler from Ohio. I'm going to put this one to bed once and for all. I'm going to pull out my height gauge and granite measuring surface and take before and after measurements. Additionally I'm going to borrow or buy a surface roughness tester (profilometer) and actually measure the finish.... why not - it's a good excuse to buy another machinist tool. Pair well with my lathe and mill. GD

Labor is labor. Doesn't matter that it's a pickup/delivery, it all has to be figured into the bottom line, and the hourly rate is $99. I don't pay rent. I pay a mortgage on my commercial building, and what I owe is less than 1/3 the value (~$1,000,0000) of the building. My house(s) are paid for. So are all my cars. I have no outstanding credit cards other than revolving credit that is used for business purposes due to fraud protection, etc. So there ya go - you be the judge. What I do have is employees that I provide a living wage. I have never required advertising since word of mouth keeps me a month+ deep at all times. I don't have problems with customer loyalty or satisfaction. On the contrary it's all the other shops that drive customers to me. I'm one of the good guys running a full time production shop. GD

Undoubtedly. The learning curve on a case split is much too high. GD

EA81's have flat tappet cams. After you pull the lifters and have them reground from the cupping that's resulted from crap emissions oil.... Amsoil premium protection high zinc 10w40. Wix filter. GD

I can do a full Weber kit with all parts for installation for like $275. They may "run fine" in your opinion but if you haven't tried a Weber then you are missing half your low end torque. GD

https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU GD

They will never run right without the valving that varies the airflow to the primary and secondary air bleeds based on engine temp, etc. The have a vacuum secondary, and tiny venturies that choke low end torque. They were designed for emissions and fuel economy. The Weber 32/36 is designed for performance and will negatively impact emissions and fuel economy generally. Pick which one you want. They both do completely different jobs. No room in my life for the Hitachi carbs. They perform a job that I don't want performed. I scrap as many of them as I possibly can so they can be turned in soda cans - which I rather enjoy more. GD