GeneralDisorder

It's not your problem. The computer can't detect the weight of the canister. P1440 is a system leak. You need to test the system with a smoke machine. Being in Alaska, and being a Forester- you probably have rust pin holes in your fuel filler neck. GD

I'm not sure what that computer would do. A lot of the early ones didn't handle circuit faults gracefully. Could try it. But getting to the sensor is hard enough - might as well check the resistance at the ECU terms first. Assuming you have a DMM and some back probes or paper clips. GD

It's relatively easy to calculate. You really don't need a dyno. You can derive a fairly accurate HP number from the grams per second airflow through the MAF. It's called a volumetric efficiency calculation. You know the crank HP of a stock EA82T - 115 HP. Take your stock peak MAF reading in g/sec and the RPM it crosses at and work backward using 115 to arrive at the VE. Then using the modified MAF peak and RPM cross and work forward again from those numbers to arrive at a fairly accurate crank HP figure for your modification. Give some consideration that the VE will likely increase some at higher levels of forced induction. VE beyond 100% is not unusual for turbocharged engines. I did this exactly on my Trans Am and came up with a HP figure that was less than 1% off the factory rating of my engine (it tested at 190 compression across all cylinders). Then did this same calculation after changing to 1.6 rockers and calculated that I picked up 3.6 HP from the additional valve lift. Not a worthwhile upgrade on its own but I was doing valve stem seals and already had the Comp roller tip 1.6 rockers left over from another build. I did it partially just to do the VE calculations for fun. GD

The codes may be meaningless - I have a 90 Legacy for example that intermittently has about 5 sensor codes and has run perfect it's entire life. It has 316k on it and runs flawlessly and gets over 30 MPG. The OBD-1 stuff was prone to poor grounding issues and it wouldn't be the first dodgy computer I've seen either. I believe everything on the 5v rail on mine throws a code. It's never been a "real" issue and the previous owner just learned to ignore it. Now I own it and I may put more effort into locating the issue but it's not affecting how it runs or drives. The ECU's.... they get old and weird or sometimes fail. To really know what the issue is you need to look at live data, but that requires some software (EVOScan), and a special SSM-1 to USB cable and some computer knowledge to setup. Or the use of a Subaru Select Monitor with the appropriate cartridge. The CTS is at high resistance when cold, and as the engine warms the resistance drops. You can measure it if you are inclined to do so... there are two sensors - one for the ECU and one for the gauge. You want the ECU sensor with the reddish brown connector (2 pin). It's on the back of the coolant cross-over below the PCV valve area. If, as I suspect, the resistance doesn't drop when warm, then engine will flood out and die as the computer is still on cold idle (choke) mode. The ECU can't detect that this is incorrect - it doesn't have the algorithmic complexity to do so. If you are going to do the resistance check it's important to check it at the ECU pins as well. High resistance in the circuit would have the same effect as a bad sensor. GD

Coolant temp sensor. GD

Pull the codes. GD

Then you should be fine. That build produces excellent low end torque but the heads stop flowing after about 4800 RPM and the power drops off precipitously. You do know that the intake manifold from the 99 will not bolt to the 2.2 heads right? You will need a manifold from a 95 to 98 2.2 Automatic If you have the 99 heads just clean them up and get some used 251 pistons. Much better build and the power will be much broader all the way to 6500. GD

Just use the 25D gasket from Subaru. The Cometic isn't sny better. They are both too thick. The head gasket lifespan is limited on that build. I wouldn't bank on anything over 50k. GD

No

Correct. The dual cam heads are much better in all aspects. With the 00 to 04 pistons the compression ratio is very favorable, and allows the thinner gasket that will not blow out like the thick D gasket did. I haven't done a single cam frankenmotor with a thick head gasket in many years. We just correct the problems with the D and all my customers are quite happy. Problem with the D gasket was it's thickness. Subaru solved the problem with a single layer shim ultra thin gasket starting in 2000. We use the 770 gasket used in 08+ turbo models. GD

It will work. It's not ideal. You will need the gasket for the 25D. Much better to swap the pistons for 00-04 pistons and use the 25D heads with a thin gasket. GD

Could be part of the problem. I never investigated it fully - it was easier to just ignore it or find another head. But I've seen multiple heads with the lifter sleeves at various heights in the casting and many heads where the lifters just will not come out. What else but a fornicated sleeve would cause that? The sleeves are soft, while the lifter is generally very hard. GD

I've installed new Subaru pumps (these came with the shaft seal pre-installed by Subaru, when you could still get them), rebuilt HLA's from Mizpah, and every seal and gasket in the entire engine (straight from Subaru) and still had it come back in 10-20k. The HLA sleeves develop a ridge at the top that doesn't allow the HLA's to come out of the bore, and I've also seen the sleeves shift in the casting resulting in some being at different heights in the bore and likely interrupting their oil flow passages with the head casting. How else do you explain engines with 275k and no ticking (even after HG failure and replacement just from mileage), against identical year engines with 150k where the tick will not go away no matter what you do short of replacing the heads? I'm sure it's not 100% of the problem, and it's not seen on 100% of engines, but it certainly seemed to be a persistent observation on my part when I was working on those regularly. I only work on one EA82T on a regular basis anymore and that one has not had any ticking problems. We forsee it's death on the horizon and the customer is already planning a 22T swap.... The only other alternative is significantly increased main and rod bearing clearances causing a pressure drop.... which equally can't be solved at the monetary input levels of the current owner base. Pretty much a lost cause at that point since even if you rebuilt the rotating assembly, the oil pump would be garbage and you can't buy those.... ..... Dead platform. GD

If you really want to solve it, this is the answer: 1. Remove the cylinder heads and have a machine shop re-sleeve the lifter bores. They wear - sometimes to the point that you can't even remove the lifters easily. This is not a simple process and has to be done with custom made parts and machine work. Basically it's not feasible and you end up looking for replacement heads which don't exist..... 2. New oil pump, rebuilt or new lifters, and cam tower seals. In most cases the cause is a combination of factors, and addressing one thing - like the oil pump seals, and the cam tower o-rings, may increase pressure and relieve aeration enough to stop the audible lifter noise, but it will return shortly. I have had low mileage examples of EA82's that had the tick despite doing EVERYTHING in catagory #2. After all that it went away for 10k miles or so but eventually came back. I also owned an '86 EA82 that was one owner and meticulously maintained - never ticked a day in it's life despite having 275k miles on it. Maintenance had prevented wear to the lifter bore sleeves. GD

But 5-8k is really nothing when it comes to collectible cars. That's bottom of the barrel for collectibles. It's still under the value of other 80's icons like the Camaro and Firebird, or even the projected value of 85 Toyota pickups in 10 years - Haggarty says $30-$40k for Marty McFly's model Toy. They certainly aren't a good investment so if people are buying them it's because it's what *they* want, not what is going to be a good investment. GD

1. It doesn't have it. Your engine isn't original and came from a car with a dummy light. Simple as that. 2. Get the sending unit from Subaru. Aftermarket are crap, don't work, and may dump all your oil out on the ground. If that happens see #1. GD

In this case I would - simply because there is no good way to fix aged plastic, and the replacement is still available (for now). They also have a measurable failure rate on the functional side - they can cause EVAP codes when the valve inside them fails to seal properly. I get that this is a forum dedicated to fixing stuff, and as a temporary measure that may work for a little while, but *most people* will be better served in the long term with a new one from Subaru. There's a plastic pressure relief valve on the fuel tank in my 86 Trans Am - they were about $40 new when you could still get one. They are now discontinued and no one makes a replacement - in fact no one even makes anything similar with the same functionality. Mine and many others are broken and unrepairable because the plastic just fell apart. So we live with gas smell and fuel spilling out on the ground by the rear axle in the summer. Those people that owned their car when you could still walk into a GM dealer and buy that part are kicking themselves now. When they show up NOS on ebay they go for several hundred. My TA's intermittent wiper motor cover - same story. What was once a $75 part.... I paid over $250 for on ebay. GD

If you have the crank sprocket with 36 teeth then the cam sprocket has only 2. Otherwise it will have 7. Check parts.subaru.com GD

My driveline shop just welds on new yokes and balances it. Runs about $300 typically. Then you have all greasable, serviceable joints. GD

Gah! What a horrible thing to bring to a car show - an 80's station wagon? What are these people thinking? I kinda get it - in the same way retro 80's video games are cool. I guess I spent too long driving those old Subaru's. Can't see wanting one again.... GD

Yeah maybe, but they are going there to get *used* and die of rust. People are discovering that it's cheap to ship them and cars here are clean and completely rust free. They are going there to die, not be coveted, restored, and ascend in value. Also the people buying them likely have no clue that support for them is disappearing. It's not well known by the general public that you can't get the parts to maintain them over the long term - they don't seem *that* old, and definitely don't qualify as classic or antique. People buy them without ever looking into parts availability. If they knew what a challenge it is to find a good condition EA82 short block they would probably think twice about it being a good "cheap" 4WD solution. Because even at $5k+ shipping, that's a REALLY cheap winter 4WD for the east coast where nothing over 10-15 years old exists. Newer cars are expensive by virtue of their demand - regardless of corrosion because most buyers in New Jersey don't even consider the option of importing a west coast car that's older than anything they have locally. Sure some do - but they are the TINY minority. The supply out here of really nice ones couldn't support the demand if it were more than an insignificant minority of buyers. GD

EGR operation is very dependent on driving conditions. It will most likely come back.

It's easier, if you are worried about things becoming obsolete (like I always am) to get a lathe, and a mill, and learn how to create anything you might need. A gas cap is really just an exercise in lathe formed threads, some milling, and knurling. Aluminum.... And replace the plastic lead with a bit of chain. But it's easier to just buy a new cap for both your rigs, replace them now (not store them) and push that machining battle back another 15 years. When necessary this is how it's handled. But I can't hardly take the time to bend over and pickup $27 at the rate I bill my time out for. If I had to make one because they went NLA..... God help the poor soul that has to pay for my time to do it. GD

But the plastic is brittle from age and will likely fail again adjacent..... With Subarus propensity for discontinuing late model parts these days (alarming things for 2000+ models are going NLA) I would get a new one while you still can. Use the part number to find it cheaper online and order 2 to reduce shipping. Plastic is only good for so long before you just need to let it return to the earth whence it came. GD

Post a video of the noise.