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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. The P0441 came back. I am having him re-route the line from the firewall directly to the purge solenoid. I seem to remember many years ago having one that didn't like the flow rate of all the hard lines looped together and such. I am hoping that a silicone line from firewall directly to purge solenoid will take care of it. With that code you have to wait and see if the ECU complains. I'm fairly certain it uses the manifold pressure sensor to determine if the system is flowing and if there's not enough of a change it assumes there's a flow problem. Sadly the ECU is not very descriptive and there is no diagnostic information on code activation criterion...... GD
  2. Yeah the system can easily detect lack of EGR flow so I'm fairly certain it won't make a difference. Doesn't hurt to rule it out though. I can say that I've never had to clean a Subaru EGR with the one exception being a carbed EA82 that had a clogged pipe many, many years ago. The EJ systems (unlike Honda) never seem to clog. GD
  3. A fusible link is just a short section of smaller diameter wire. You can find charts that reccomend AWG to use for a link given the circuit wire size/ampacity. Don't over think it. Figure out what gauge to use, crimp some spades on a short section - instant "fusible link" GD
  4. I have not seen any EGR issues that caused pinging. Exhaust gasses are devoid of oxygen so they can't lean your mixture. Additionally the EGR only functions under part throttle cruise conditions in closed loop operation. It is not used during open loop acceleration as it would negatively impact engine performance. GD
  5. Obviously I can't hear it so I have to go by your description but I have seen detonation from carbon and oil consumption. I just dealt with an 05 Forester with this problem. Oil consumption was around a quart in 1500 miles based on customer feedback. He had other shops put head gaskets in the car twice, and none of them suggested installing new rings to eliminate the oil consumption and stop the carbon detonation..... he's very happy with the results of piston skirt knurling, and new rings. It will not throw a code (ECU just assumes it's bad gas) but you should see the knock sensor go nuts and pull timing if you have a scan tool that can see live data. Or an o-scope on the knock sensor. GD
  6. You just need a small carbide burr, a dremel (90 degree preferred if they make such an animal) and some patience. Carbide will chew through the tool steel extractor. Then heli-coil it. This is a pretty simple repair. You just have to put in the time to slowly grind out the contents of the hole. I've never liked the nut welding trick on 1/4 or 6mm fasteners. Too dang small and it's easy to scorch the surface, partially melt the surrounding aluminium, etc. It's usually cleaner to go with the mechanical extraction regardless of how much longer that takes. GD
  7. If the starter issue is still present, you need a relay mod. It's pretty simple and any decent auto electrical guy could do it in 20 minutes. Power loss on a 96 is probably coolant temp, mass airflow, or intake leaks.... You need a good general diagnostician that can look at live data, do a volumetric efficiency test, etc. I just had an 07 OBXT that fell on its face under load - adding fuel like crazy. Idled normal, only code was lean bank 1 (a code that, in my experience, a 96 would never throw regardless of fuel trims). A little VE calculations showed the measured airflow to be way off. Ruled out a plugged exhaust, intake leaks, and idle quality was good so..... bad MAF. And problem was solved. Just like that. No codes for the MAF.... You have to know what the data MEANS and learn what its telling you. South Main Auto repair in Avoca, NY. He's 5 hours away but based on many YouTube videos he knows diag. I'm way too far on the other side of the country or I would solve it for her. GD
  8. It takes less carbon than you think. Last one I did had surprisingly little carbon also. There's a few years that seem to be sensitive to it. Around the 05 to 07 years Subaru had a lot of issues running stuff very lean. Rings and decarbon fixed it. Oil consumption should be about half a quart or less in 3k. GD
  9. You can extract anything with a carbide burr. Tool steel is no match. If you break off carbide in the thing then your screwed. Have to EDM it out. I don't even own extractors. High quality left hand drill bits and carbide burrs are all I use. If that don't do it, it goes down the street to the EDM at the cylinder head shop. GD
  10. If you stretched them and broke two during installation then replace them all. If more of them decide to let go when it's running you may be looking for a new engine. GD
  11. Yes that applies to all EJ engines. DO NOT wire wheel the bolts. They are aluminized and this is an anti-friction coating. If washing them in mineral spirits doesn't get them clean (rusty, pitted, etc) then they need to be replaced. They are inexpensive from the dealer. You only need to replace damaged, rusted, pitted bolts. Reuse the good ones. GD
  12. It's not for stretching - it's to pre-lube the female threads. 22, 51, back off, 29, 90 degrees, 45 degrees, and then 45 degrees on center bolts only. Before head installation, clean block threads with brake clean, heavily lube a bolt and run it into each hole till you hit bottom. Repeat for every hole, lubing the bolt for each. Then install the head and bolts with heavy assembly lube like Amsoil engine assembly lube. GD
  13. I haven't seen that the 48mm journals make any difference if the 10mm pump is in good condition and quality oil is used. The journal width is the same and so it's load carrying ability is very similar. As for the cooling jackets dimensions - they are the same as the 255/257 which don't overheat at 500 HP so I'm not really inclined to believe this is a weak area. While it is more work to install pistons, it's not overly difficult, and the increased compression will yeild a bit more power - further widening the gap in performance between the 2.2 and 2.5. I guess working on and building the turbocharged engines has made the differences between the single cam and dual cam less important to me from a maintenance standpoint. I see them both as non turbo engines and so consequently much less labor intensive. And since I have a solution to the head gasket issue (just use the 251 pistons or complete bottom end), having the dual cam heads and increased performance is a no brainer to me. And FWIW, I would put new rings in a 2.2 if I had one apart. The 2.5 is just easier because you can knock out the wrist pins with a long 1/4" rod from the opposite side. GD
  14. The XT trans will be a sport shift.... They changed a lot of stuff in 05 - all the solenoids and switches got put in the valve body and aren't available separately. I can't see them being compatible with the 2000 TCU GD
  15. Doesn't really matter - the 2.2 no matter how well maintained will need HG's sooner or later - usually somewhere between 250k and 300k. When the 2.5 needs them, just swap pistons for 251 slugs and use 770 gaskets. 10.6 compression and no more HG failure. The 25D is a great engine if maintained and swapped to 251 pistons. GD
  16. The ONLY way to solve it is to replace the rings. The oil getting by them is causing the buildup, and the oil vapor reduces the effective octane of the intake charge as well. Re-ring is in order. All other measures will be VERY temporary and pretty much a waste of time. GD
  17. Hitachi carb part number has been superseded to: Weber 32/36 DGEV GD
  18. You gotta wonder how he made it through the forum sign up process right? LOL GD
  19. Hitachi rebuild kit part number: Weber 32/36 DGEV GD
  20. They don't really do anything noticeable. Just look pretty and are cheaper than the OE. Lightweight flywheel make a difference but it's because of not only the weight reduction, but also where that weight is removed with respect to distance from axis of rotation. GD
  21. The VssPro uses the ABS wheel speed sensor. Specifically the front right sensor.... I'm sure the Dakota unit could do this also but it's not setup especially for that. You will have to determine the conversion factors and program it yourself. GD
  22. parts.subaru.com This is the official Subaru of America parts website. They do not sell parts. Take the numbers to your local dealer. If some are discontinued you have have to upgrade the linkage to a later model year. It's all interchangeable - you can use WRX parts, Kartboy short shifters, etc. GD
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