GeneralDisorder

Buy an aftermarket warranty. The last thing you want is to have the dealer do the repair should it break. Find a good independent that's known here on the forums, etc. GD

Correct there is no way to do it with parts from the old trans - unless you want to swap the entire front differential and housing..... I have the Dakota unit in my Trans Am and while it works, it's highly susceptible to EMI and the Speedo likes to jump around like crazy when I'm stopped. Probably could fix it with some shielded com wire but yeah.... It's a cheap unit. The VssPro is much better. GD

Sensors and wiring can change year to year and from different transmission types, etc but the basic engine is the same. Just like a 95 to 01 Vortec small block fits an 87 Camaro but the intake is different, and some other bits and pieces. It's the same basic engine - both are technically generation 2 Chevy small blocks - but the engine management changed. They bolt up, but are not "plug and play". GD

Valves are crazy cheap. I think we get intake valves for $6 each. Lap them in, adjust lash, and run it. There will not be piston damage. GD

Someone over torqued it or the sleeve seized. Seen it several times. Bent intake valves. GD

Hub is not available separately from the dealer either. You either buy aftermarket bearings without hubs if you intend to reuse the hub, or you buy the complete assembly like Subaru sells it. GD

No you still don't understand. The torque will ALWAYS go to the wheel with LOWEST friction. The only thing the automatic AWD's can do is send more or less power to the rear depending on traction. They are roughly 90% front wheel drive in D and only send power to the rear If they see a difference between front and rear speed sensors. They can split the power up to 50/50 front and rear. The power will always go to one front, and one rear wheel - whichever has the lowest friction. There is no provision for traction control nor do they have any form of limited slip to equalize the spin between right and left wheels. If you hang one front and one rear wheel (either one) out in space (zero traction) the car cannot move at all. GD

It doesn't work that way. AWD makes the wheel spin. It doesn't make them stop spinning. That would be Traction Control which uses the ABS to slow wheels that are slipping. Your car DOES NOT HAVE TRACTION CONTROL. Got it? GD

VssPro is the ticket. It's $199 and can make the 2004 speedo work with the later trans. I've used them before for late model 6 speed swaps. GD

Manual or automatic? Take it to some gravel or wet grass or something and see if it kicks in at lower speeds. Or put it on 4 jack stands and put the trans in 1 or R (if auto) and the rear drive should kick in. GD

Nice. Yes a metered air leak will cause l kinds of problems. GD

We generally recommend Koyo and Denso. There aren't aluminium race style radiators available for most of the non-turbo radiators. We prefer them of course but the only people that spring for them are owners of turbo cars so they never get enough demand to make them for non turbo applications. Sports models like the BRZ, etc get them also. GD

No. Rotate the cam and the valves should unload. If they don't you have some other problem like dropped valve guides, etc. GD

First mistake. Sounds like you have a classic plastic separator plate failure. It's too old for the dealer to be familiar with this failure. They have too much brain drain and turnover to remember 20 years ago. It WILL require engine or trans removal to repair. Should take about 5-6 hours (similar to labor for a clutch) and the metal separator plate and bolts runs less than $40 from the parts department. Being as old as it is, be prepared for a real Subaru mechanic (IE: not the dealer) to find a few more things while they are in there. Should be able to keep it well under $1k. GD

Forester will be the same as Outback till '02 I think. '03 has a taller spring perch. King makes lift springs also. GD

That invoice is a horrow show. This "mechanic" knows nothing about Subarus or turbocharged engines obviously from the pictures. I wouldn't trust that thing to make it around the block given the inept way things have been hooked up just on the basic visual you have done. And leaking fluids.... god only knows what's gone on inside the engine. You can definitely spend a PILE of money on an EA82T. I have a customer that's spent well over $20k. And we still haven't done an EJ swap. Frankly they just aren't a viable platform to take to a mechanic anymore unless it's a specialist. I'm sure he did have serious problems finding a good engine. You can't get parts for these anymore. I've bought "the last one in the country" probably a dozen or more times working on EA's in the last few years. GD

Normal shop pricing. I charge 25 a gallon and that's for pre-mixed with distilled water (I buy in bulk 50 gallon drums). Though I would have charged for 1.5 because they is system capacity. GD

Well its not leaking from the sway bar. Looks like nearest thing in the area is the steering rack. Going to need better pictures from other angles. GD

We fix it by upgrading the engine and trans mounts to Group N or harder. The stock ones are too soft. If you keep the drivetrain locked down it can't start the oscillations. That's been my experience. From my stock 91 Legacy SS to late model STI's with stage 3+ clutches. GD

You need an engine or cylinder head from a 90 to 98 2.2 or 1.8 car. Any of those will work either directly or with slight alterations like exhaust header/EGR port block off, etc. GD

It's not loose - you're mechanic doesn't know what he's looking at. Don't let this guy work on your Subaru. And if it were actually to turn out to be loose - the transmission is not long for this world. You can't replace the differential carrier bearings without splitting the transmission case and if that were true it wouldn't be worth bothering because the innards will be chowder. GD

Nope. Wont fit anything made in the US - steering column interference. You dont want one anyway - they were junk and the tuning was atrocious. GD

Napa synthetic or dino oil? If synthetic it's probably ok but not ideal. If it's dino oil then that is absolutely not good for the engine long term. GD

Replace the engine mounts, transmission mount, and pitch stopper. Get the Group-N ones from Subaru. This will completely solve your problem. We have this problem all the time on heavy staged clutch turbo cars. We lock down the engine and trans with Cusco, etc mounts and this stops the rubber band effect on the drive-train and allows them to be driven smoothly much easier. GD

Short trips would be the order of the day, yes. Long trips will overheat the VC. Short term, and short trips..... In any case it's best to get a cheap set of NEW tires. If you look around you can do it for around $300 usually. Honestly, if you can't budget for car repairs you have no business on the road posing a danger to yourself and my family. I get that "times are tough" (though unemployment is at record lows and business is booming so I guess times are always tough eh?) but driving isn't free, or a right. It's a privilege and comes with responsibilities as well as consequences when you don't live up to them. GD