GeneralDisorder

We have a saying in the shop - "Friends don't let friends buy Legacy GT's" Many reasons for this. They are MONEY PITS. I just bought a 2005 Outback XT with only 110k on it for $1000 with a blown turbo that had 50 MILES ON IT. We know for sure that it's AT LEAST on turbocharger #3 and we highly suspect it's probably #4. We know how to fix these cars but based on their value it's very much an upside down monetary situation. They are a VERY big risk, and usually for the uninitiated they are a VERY big loss. If you are an expert in the Subaru EJ turbo (like we are) and you have tons of parts and connections - great. They are an excellent value when you get one that's broken with low mileage. For EVERYONE ELSE they are your WORST NIGHTMARE. Expect to pay roughly $10,000 to replace the engine when/if it fails (quality work done by a knowledgeable and skilled shop) . And they fail ALL THE TIME. You see where this is going? If it's an automatic car - the 5EAT is problematic. Wiring harness and valve body issues and sometimes torque converter. It can easily cost $3,000 to address all that stuff. And parts for 2005's from Subaru are rapidly becoming obsolete in the system. Once that happens things become even more complicated and expensive. GD

Rear axles don't really break on any Subaru's. And a broken rear axle (as unlikely as that is) will not disable your car. The auto's are primarily front wheel drive till they sense wheel spin and by installing a fuse in the FWD holder under the hood they can be made 100% front wheel drive. The highly improbable nature of such a failure coupled with the fact that it doesn't disable the vehicle makes it a part I wouldn't waste valuable cargo space and weight on. U-joints are NOT field serviceable (they were designed to not be serviceable at all and Subaru will only sell you a complete driveline for about $800). But you bring up a good point - if they fail that would be a rather unfortunate problem and it certainly can/does happen. I would have the driveline preventatively rebuilt (a specialty driveline shop can install serviceable joints along with new yokes to accommodate them) with new u-joints if you are concerned. If you do have a failure though - again this falls under the rear drive category and you can revert to front wheel drive or temporarily replace the u-joint with some bailing wire and just drive really slow. As for wiring - if you have no idea about electrical then you may consider just leaving that to the pro's. But I would also point out that any equipment (the car being considered "equipment" for this discussion) that you plan to trust with your life in off-grid scenarios you should be as familiar with as possible. Understanding automotive electrical and how to do basic troubleshooting and repair could literally save your life one day - bouncing around off-road in a 25 year old car could easily result in a loose or damaged electrical component - at the very least some aspect of the car will become nonoperational - at the worst the car could light on fire and burn to the ground with you inside - granted that's unlikely but you could be left with the clothes on your back and a smoking pile of wreckage. You laugh but I've pulled people from burning cars due to electrical fires. It happens - and if you don't act fast you'll be watching the fire department put it out much too late to save anything. Something like this is probably fine for emergencies: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-86689C-Electrical-Repair-Case/dp/B008ZCEKK6 Should likely add a fire extinguisher to the list as well. In general you need to familiarize yourself with the form and function of this vehicle. The complaint I always had about off-roading with Subaru groups, or lifted vehicle groups in general: If you follow me you almost certainly will eventually break something. I don't want to hear your big baby tantrum about A. How am I going to get to work - this is my daily and my only vehicle!, or B. I need help fixing it because I don't know how or don't want to get dirty. Invariably someone breaks their daily driver (or worse their dads/moms/sisters car) and turns out they are helpless and I get roped into fixing some junk in the mud/snow/gravel/all-of-the-above because somehow I feel bad for the poor broke moron and somewhat responsible because I encouraged their bad decisions or enabled them in some way. Don't be that guy. I'll find you. And I'll slap you. GD

Your hill holder valve is sticking. Could be the valve or the cable. For the time being just disconnect the cable and rotate the valve to the open position. You can likely get a replacement valve or possibly the rebuild kit still from Subaru. I bet it's a rusty mess. You're most welcome. We even see this in Oregon where there's no rust so I'm about 101% certain this is your problem. GD

Spare Tire (also fix-a-flat). Water (for vehicle and for people). Always carry at least a gallon of water in addition to what you think you need for drinking. 40 weight oil. Don't bother with coolant - you can use water. Same with brake fluid - if you have to crimp off a hard line to a wheel with a malfunction you can fill the system with water (or urine if things go that sideways) and limp home - you also have the hand brake to assist in limp mode. You can put 40 weight oil in the engine, in the transmission or power steering (temporary - flush it out with ATF when you get home). Engine, transmission, and brakes are all you need. Starter (because automatic - manual cars can be bump or tow started). Alternator Coil pack Front axle Radiator hoses, heater core hose. Spare accessory belts. Especially the alternator/PS belt. If you are really on top of it carry a belt that can run the alt by itself - in case the PS pump grenades. Fuses and basic wiring kit with wire, terminals, crimpers, etc. Basic tool kit. Small 3/8" socket set. 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm wrenches. pliers (multi-tool). Hammer (or back end of your axe). 32mm socket, 1/2" breaker bar, pry bar, and 3/16" pin punch - this is to change that front axle if required. Bailing wire, duct tape, and aircraft safety wire w/pliers. Inspect and tighten all your chassis components after each outing. Things like ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arms are not generally a failure point on mildly lifted Subaru's - inspect them and replace at signs of wear or damage. Sh1t happens and you'll need to always have a backup plan for recovery (friends with BIG vehicles, AAA membership, etc). There will always be obstacles and circumstances where a 2" lifted Subaru is not going to go and may need assistance. Here's a hilarious video of a jeep being pulled through 18" of snow like a toboggan by an LMTV: If you are going out alone then definitely let several friends and relatives know the general area you are going to, and when to expect your return. Also you should carry the 10 C's of survival (highly recommend Andrew's YouTube channel - subscribe to it): GD

The transmission will lose all it's fluid with the driveshaft removed. You need the front of the driveshaft to seal up the tail shaft housing. Some driveline's - most of the non-turbo one's I believe - you can remove just half of the driveline..... as long as you can keep the center carrier bearing and only pull the rear section you should be ok. GD

We only use Subaru OEM or Sankei 555: http://www.sankei-555.co.jp/products Knock on wood I've never had a failure (that was brought to my attention) after using the Sankei components. They might supply some of Subaru's parts - they appear very similar in construction. GD

The duty-c failure rate is very high on that year though - use of FWD fuse might push it over the edge. I wouldn't want to risk it for "hundreds" of miles. I would just pull the clutch pack out. Really doesn't take long to do it. GD

That's a very rare occurrence for a ball joint on any vehicle. I've seen some VERY worn out ball joints and the only occasion I have seen one come apart was due to improper assembly by another shop. They did not install a cotter pin and castle nut fell off. I would not worry about this. Check for play in the joint - if there is not perceptible play then clean the joint out, add some grease, and put on a new boot. I just went though this with my LMTV - all my tie rod and drag link boots were shot from 14 years in the desert but the truck has only 5800 miles on it and the steering is VERY tight so no reason to replace the joints. I used generic urethane boots, cleaned and greased them up. GD

It's going to spin at basically full road speed because you now have no load on it. The transfer clutch regulates power transfer - with the duty-c solenoid engaged all the time it will dump line pressure away from the clutch but that will not prevent it from spinning unless there's a load placed against the driveline. The friction of the plates and fluid will cause it to spin. Also with the fuse in place running the solenoid at 100% you still run the risk of the duty-c solenoid failing and when that happens the clutch locks with full line pressure. The solenoids job is to dump pressure away from the clutch so if it fails it fails to locked 4WD. To disable the rear output safely you should pull the back cover off the transmission and remove the transfer clutch pack. GD

Wheel bearings are simply 6207-C3 electric motor bearings. Personally I believe the knuckle was designed to use a 7207 axial thrust bearing with proper shimming, etc. Any bearing house can supply these. Joint boots are available in urethane for many sizes. If the joint is not worn out then just replace the boot: https://www.suspension.com/universal-dust-boots.asp GD

These most recent one's that Subaru brought in a couple years ago did come in boxes, yes. IIRC they are left and right because of the brake line mounting brackets and possibly the location of the tab that bolts to the knuckle. And yes they are basically unobtainable. Just like EA81/EA82 oil pumps. I have a friend with some parts stashed and recently someone wanted an EA81 oil pump. He quoted them $500 and I was like - why so cheap? I remember buying them from the dealer 15 years ago for $65. Such is the way it goes. These vehicles are now collectibles. They are not viable drivers unless the entire drivetrain is updated and even then if you need trim or glass - you'll be off the road for a long stretch trying to find it. And people wonder why I drive old Chevy's and military vehicles. GD

Subaru brought some in about 1 to 2 years ago. Half a dozen sets IIRC. These are the factory style with the lower perch height adjusters. Those of us that knew about it snapped them up. Don't know if such an occurrence will happen again - seems highly unlikely. Not sure if I will use the set I have for my hatch or just convert to a better front suspension system when I go to the Toyota transmission and EJ22...... I would sell the set I have (new in Subaru boxes - never opened) but I want $1500 + shipping for the pair. GD

Well in the PNW there are zero rust issues. That's all I can really comment on. GD

I would weld it to the cat, but could probably clamp it - or use an expander and then clamp it. Dealers choice. They sell both sides so you can purchase both and then attach with welding or clamps and then no fab is required. For the price I wouldn't bother with fabrication. But it's your time vs. money that's the question not mine. GD

You need to shock the screws. Hit them with a punch before you break them loose with a Philips..... it's an art form dealing with stuck fasteners. One thing you need to learn is that things like PB Blaster, etc are not going to work on stuff that's stuck like this. It won't penetrate where you need it to go. A solid blow to the head of the bolt with a punch will break the thread tension by compressing and expanding the bolt slightly. GD

Subaru got some in about a year ago - half a dozen sets or so. They may get more eventually. Those of us that were in the know snapped up some extras. Keep checking. These were the genuine article with adjustable lower perches, etc. Or be prepared to pay a LOT for some NOS one's. I got some for a customer from a collector I know a couple years back and it was $750 for a pair of them. EA81's aren't viable drivers anymore. Collectibles maybe. But the availability of simple parts is very poor. They are no longer viable. GD

Pull the wheels and pull back the fender liner. Pretty self explanatory from there. GD

Factory Subaru. Or make an attempt to re-seal it yourself. There are kits to make your own o-rings - both standard and metric. And if it has a special gasket I have used Hylomar to seal them up. Does require disassembly and if you aren't familiar with pumps and pressing bearings, etc you will be money and time ahead just getting one from Subaru. GD

Probably depends on not only care and maintenance but also location in the state and proximity to the mountains and ski resorts, etc. GD

Air Fuel Ratio sensors are also called "Wideband Oxygen Sensors". The classic "Oxygen Sensor" or Narrow Band Oxygen Sensor can only read 14.7 air fuel ratio - or rather it can only tell you if you are above or below 14.7 AFR and they produce an output between 0 volts and 1 volt with 0.5 volts being exactly 14.7 WBO2's have a variety of ranges and specifications but are distinct in that they produce positive or negative current (in milliamps) indicating direction and amplitude away from 14.7 AFR. This is often converted by the engine computer or another control module into either digital CANBUS data or a 0-5v analog signal. GD

Likely not worth repairing based on it's cosmetic condition and age. Sell for parts and get something that doesn't have the 25D in it. Maybe a 2.2 swap but in Colorado it's probably a rusted hulk and based on what I can see it's likely not worth the effort. GD

Will be interesting to see what you find in the old trans. Sounds like front diff maybe but you say it doesn't sound like it's coming from there. Anything on the magnets? 250k is a good run. Personally would have opted for low mileage used. Have seen several scenarios where Subaru Reman transmissions have had quality control problems. I have a customer that the dealer installed 5 of them before they got a "good" one and 80k later it's making quite a bit of metal - more than I like to see anyway. Still going but did require a new transfer clutch and both drums as it was binding badly (deep grooves in the drums). Should not be the case for a Reman transmission with 80k on it. GD

These guys have all the parts you need covered with simple kits: https://fxexhaust.com/pr/subaru.html GD

Turbo oil return hose or valve cover leaking into the heat shields. The oil supply lines normally only leak if someone leaves off the up-pipe/turbo support brackets and it causes the oil supply hard lines to crack. Could also possibly be a bad turbo and it's leaking from the CHRA. But not that likely. You would probably see some level of blue smoke out the tail-pipe if that was the case. CV grease can be thrown in that area also. GD

Dealers still use the 633 gaskets rather than the superior 642 or 770 and in general their technician level of competency is rather poor. Subaru and other dealers don't want to spend any more on training than they need to. Monkeys that swap entire assemblies are much easier to train and cheaper to pay than a REAL technician that can diagnose, disassemble intricate parts, and reassemble correctly. It's absolutely a false sense of security to believe in the superiority of the job just because it's a "dealership". Personally I wouldn't put any more faith in it than a proper independent job especially if no part numbers are listed. GD