GeneralDisorder

Buy a wrecked USDM WRX. It will be much easier. JDM EJ205's are super cheap..... Either way though - 205 or 222 with a low psi turbo - it's still going to be slow without upgrades. If you want real performance then start with a built 257 short block with forged internals. 205 heads, manifold, and ECU will be fine. We have 02-05 WRX's making 400 WHP on 205 heads with 257 block/ cams @ 25 psi. GD

It's not a conversion. It's a DIRECT bolt in. There is no difference whatsoever with using a 251 block from 1999 to 2001. 2002 to 2004 requires only changing the location of the PCV valve using a $5 brass nipple. Again - zero modification required. It's the same block just with different piston in it. The piston even fit your existing block. Fire ring pitting is just that - you find pitted low spots where the fire ring sat on the block. You use filler infused with metal particulate (JB weld, Dev-Con, etc) and lightly draw file/block sand it smooth. It's not rocket science. Its a simple repair procedure. Best learn this kind of thing if you plan on doing this kind of work successfully. GD

The easiest thing to do would be to buy a re-manufactured short block from Subaru for a 2000 to 2004 Legacy. They are about $2300 and come with a 3 year/ 36k warranty. Then you have the right pistons already. Resurface the 25D heads and put them on with 770 gaskets. These reman short blocks come with pan, oil pump, water pump pre-installed. We have a lot of customers that go this route because the cost to do a complete rebuild of their old short block exceeds the cost of these reman's from Subaru and they come with value added parts like the pumps and pan. GD

In our experience, exhaust valves to not interfere with the pistons due to their smaller size. They *can* interfere with the intake valves but usually do not. Inspect them - I usually just lap them all and if any are pitted badly or manifestly bent when performing the lapping then replace them. GD

"Any general advice?" Don't do it unless you have alternate transportation and money to burn on this learning experience. It's not going to be *if* you blow up the engine, it's going to be how many of them you blow up before you figure out how to do it and make it somewhat reliable. I'm going to say 3 - either you figure it out by the third engine, or you give up after that many failures. GD

They are called Speed Nuts. Go to the 80's GM isle at the wrecking yard. They used 6x1.0 speed nuts all over the place. GD

Resurfacing them will be fine. We do it with glass and abrasive paper. Search here on the forum for the process. We do not replace the bolts unless damaged. We run them in the parts washer and throw them back in. Changing the pistons allows use of thinner gaskets and that prevents eventual failure. New rings ensures no oil burning. Head and block surfaces are THE most important factor, along with proper bolt torque with no creaking. Follow my instructions if you don't want to do this again. I do this stuff every day and have built that engine more times than I can count on all my digits. GD

It's the last three digits of them, yes. Just lookup a gasket for a 2008 STI. GD

They are not available. They cannot be made thin enough to meet to requirements nor would they work for this application. Use the Subaru 770 or 642 gasket. GD

The short block rebuild on those is pretty intense. The issue is going to be electrical - the immobilizer systems on the CANBUS cars are nuts. They hook into a whole bunch of other computers and the dash cluster.... it's super ugly. Standalone maybe. But expect to be in it an arm and a d!ck. GD

251 pistons, knurled skirts, 770 Subaru gaskets. Resurface heads and fill any pitting in the block fire ring seating surface with a quality metal filler like Dev-Con, etc. Clean and chase block head bolt threads. Lube head bolts generously with Amsoil engine assembly lube to prevent creaking. If you get creaking during assembly - stop and start over. Clean and chase, lube and torque. If the bolts have been wire wheeled or other foolishness get new ones from Subaru. GD

No windshield installer would touch that. Too much liability. The windshield is an integral part of the cabin in an accident and they can be held liable in court for improper installation resulting in a crash injury. Most will refuse to use any old parts (other than trim) or install it in any way other than factory recommendation. They have deals where they buy all their supplies through a specific supplier and that supplier guarantees them representation in court should there be any question about improper installation. Reputable glass guys take it very seriously - a single lawsuit could put them on the street. Likely the only way forward is going to be finding a NOS gasket on ebay, or going to a yard and smashing out a windshield to get the gasket out in one piece. Still going to have a problem finding someone to install it using an old gasket. They crack, rip, and generally are completely non-pliable and useless after 30 years. Basically a complete $hit show no matter how you approach it. AUS is an option possible. I bought a rear diff for my trans am from AUS. You just have to get in touch with someone there that can get what you need and is willing to ship it. Expect to pay as much as the gasket costs in shipping. My Torsen carrier was $300 and shipping was another $175. GD

You can get engine parts from Subaru but that is the ONLY source and they are extremely expensive. Sitting for that long is going to mean opening it up for water pump mechanical seal (water pump is driven by camshaft from inside the engine) And that is a seriousoy slippery slope. It usually means timing belt, timing chain (yep they have both), oil pump, and oil/water pump housing (they crack). Just parts alone will be over $1k. You have to drop the crank partially out of the engine to do the timing chain.... it's a horrific process to do one of these up right. Last on I did cost the customer $3500 or so in parts and labor. It's a serious pain in the neck to work on. As said the fuel system is SHOT after that long. So figure on dropping the tank and having it rubber coated inside if it's not swiss cheese. Fuel pump of course. Possibly all the injectors... It will cost a FORTUNE to get that rolling and you will have a 65 HP econo box..... get a legacy. GD

It's not preposterous - it's simply ignorant and a terrible idea for the value of the 10. The 2.2 phase II engine was great at being an oil consuming pig and having slightly less power than the 2.5, similar economy, and the same problems with head gaskets, etc. Unfortunately since this bore size wasn't continued there is no updated gasket to solve the HG weeping problems like there is with the 251, and there are no good sources for the rings on the 222 except the dealer at $200 a set. All this combined makes it arguably the least attractive 2000+ Subaru engine. Very low production numbers, expensive and inferior parts.... The 99 to 01 2.2 is a great engine.... for someone else. GD

Gates - junk. GMB - worse junk. $400 is cheap - they are using crap parts. We charge $800 and that's including crank/cam seals, cam support o-rings, and Japanese parts. If you do everything it's a 5 hour job. And then coolant, thermostat, and Japanese parts. You can pay for quality work and parts, and KNOW you will be good for 105k. Or you can gamble. Your choice. Driving is a privilege, not a right, and it costs money. Budget for proper repairs or walk. I see what the "$400 timing belt sale!" guys do to Subaru's. Every day. They strip idler threads out of the block, install the tensioner roller sleeve backwards, fail to pre-tension the piston style tensioner before tightening the hold down bolts, and all manner or other mistakes that are simply a result of inexperience. The DIY guys are just as bad. If you don't have some experience behind tools you have no business doing a timing belt. It's not a difficult job, but there are important rules to follow. And yes the 96 is non-interference. Period. There is no "year split", etc. That's horse$hit. GD

We pull down the headliner partially and run bout 12" of new wire through the boots to prevent the repair joint from being the flex point. This happens a lot - we have repaired several. GD

You have to be careful with return springs on a pull clutch - if you overcome the throwout retainer's spring force (some of them don't even have proper wave-washer springs, while other's do) you will introduce a bunch of free-play to the system and the pedal return spring will snap the pedal to the floor simply because you have moved the fluid from the slave into the master and introduced a bunch free play that has to be taken up before the slave will begin to move the pressure plate. There is likely nothing wrong with it at all. They don't generally need return springs as gravity naturally drains fluid into the slave taking up the slack in the system. And there is no way to keep the throwout from spinning since its integrally attached to the pressure plate. Some (STI's generally) have assist springs that maintain some pull on the fork and keep tension on the throwout. You didn't mean an assist spring did you? GD

Yes it could likely be done. It will require tuning to eliminate all the AVLS systems and associated codes. What you would end up with would suck a$$ though. Sell the EJ22 and buy the correct motor for the 2010. You can get reman short blocks from Subaru for $2300. GD

What do you do when reality infringes upon your frolicking woodland creature, unicorn, rainbow, and lighting bug butt view of the world..... stick your head back in the sand of course. I can't be sorry for the truth, and have no time to sugar coat it. There's no excuse for not asking these questions BEFORE buying some automotive albatross to hang around your neck. GD

Depends on the line you are using. If you are using stainless, or old american truck sized stuff..... And sometimes if you are doing it on-car you only get ONE shot at it because of the location or length of line you have to work with. I have had flaring operations in dark, dank holes go sideways and it's not pretty. The above recommendations are based on my experiences and will generally guarantee good results even with tough tubing and in poor working conditions. GD

It runs 8.5 psi boost. That's about a 58% increase in power theoretically (58% of a full atmosphere which would give a theoretical 100% HP increase). Which means it's going to contribute approx a thereoretical 58%÷2 of the rated HP. Subtract 29% of the 115 HP rating of the engine and you are left with a little less than 82 HP. Which is about what you would expect being the EA82 n/a versions are around 85 to 95 HP. Lost compression accounts for the HP loss over an MPFI n/a engine at 9.5 compression. So basically.... slow. A little math is all that's needed. Boost performance is pretty easy to rough calculate. GD

The key to flaring is to get some line and a good, old school flaring tool. There are several KEY steps involved in making a perfect double flare, or (for Subaru) bubble flare. I use an old American made Imperial Brass double flaring kit. These are all over ebay for about $50: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-Brass-Brake-Flaring-Tools-Set-/122596053186?hash=item1c8b4b50c2:g:c0oAAOSwdGFYnNJm First - Subaru's use 4.5mm brake line. 3/16" is essentially the same. So you can use a 3/16" double flaring tool to do bubble flares by flipping the anvil over to the flat side. 1. You MUST cut the tubing absolutely square. Best to use a small tubing cutter for this. 2. You MUST carefully bevel the OD of the tube, AND chamfer the ID of the tube with a drill bit. If you don't the tubing will be too thick on the end and it will split. 3. Use valve lapping compound on the anvil to keep it from slipping on the tubing. 4. Use a light oil to lubricate the tool and the tubing. Use sparingly. 5. Heat the end of the tubing slightly with a propane torch before each step. This helps to soften it and prevent cracking and work hardening. 6. PRACTICE. Some day you will need to do this for a proper repair. Get the tools and learn the skills. Your grandfather could do it - so can you. GD

Well that was your first mistake (buying it)...... dont make another one. No parts are available. And proper machining (line hone, rebore, etc) would be extremely expensive due to no one having their equipment setup for the process on that engine. Just a line hone would likely cost $1k and then you have cylinder boring.... no one has a bore plate....oil pumps are discontinued... It would cost far more than the car is worth. It's not feasible and what you would end up with would still be an EA82T.... yuck. If it's got a really nice body consider the EJ22 swap. More power than the 1.8 Turbo and no turbo complexity. Used, good condition EA82T..... that's laughable. Such a thing pretty much no longer exists as far as I know. Might as well look for the pot-o-gold and try to catch the leprechaun. GD

There are no seals left in the US for windshield, tailgate, or drivers front door. Basically you have to buy parts cars or watch eBay and be willing to pay the extorsionist prices these parts are beginning to command. 80's Japanese stuff is hot and getting more so. Haggarty says mid 80's Toyota trucks will be in the $30k - $40k range in about 10 years. The popular 80's icon cars are not long for the cheap transportation market. Their value is skyrocketing and parts are drying up. Same goes for American stuff. The prices for 3rd gen Trans Am's and IROC's have quadrupled in the last 5 years.... Of course $1500 x 4 still isn't a lot, but the trend isn't going to stop. People want the cars of their youth and this isn't going to stop. Just saw someone asking $6k for a nice EA81 wagon in Portland. Get prepared to PAY for your restoration parts. A lot. GD

Yep - or broken fork. GD