GeneralDisorder

Cylinder 1 and 2 share one side of the coil pack. You should start there. Sounds like possibly the coil pack has failed. You should get a professional opinion. If it's knocking and needed a whole bunch of oil (3+ quarts) then you have killed it running it out of oil. No one to blame for that but the operator. GD

EA82's blow HG's more often than any EJ. And frankly the "overheat" style HG failure is limited to the EJ25D and it CAN be fixed. The EA82 cannot. It has a severely flawed head design. The ring land failure is the exclusive territory of the EJ255 and EJ257 turbocharged engines. It is also easily corrected with drop in forged components that require no machine work. It also makes no difference if you want to keep the EA82. Subaru is the judge, jury, and executioner. Myself, and all my guys will throw a pizza party on the day the last EA82 is shoveled into a landfill or melted into new alloy rims for the Chinese auto market. They are leaky piles of utter garbage. No one that has worked on both extensively will agree with you. Nor are any comments from people with zero experience with EJ's even helpful here. The EA82 is a DEAD PLATFORM. Subaru has very effectively seen to that. Why do you think you can still get oil pumps for EA81's and Justy's but not the EA82? Because the engineers at Subaru hate that engine. GD

You're real problem is that it's a tercel 4WD transmission..... several seemingly desperate individuals have nearly begged me to attempt a rebuild on one of those nightmares and after seeing one in the back of a truck..... no way. Too obscure and overly complicated. Race teams change oils and gear oils all the time depending on conditions and the desired performance. Even manufactures list multiple options for different environmental conditions. As I said - IF it doesn't grind, it will be fine. 75w140 encompasses 75w90 entirely in its range. If you talk to oil engineers this is much more important than the actual numbers. Also how it performs.... If 75w140 has acceptable performance then it will be fine as its lubrication properties are actually better than 75w90. If it doesn't perform then it needs to be changed out. I wouldn't guess it shifts very well cold and it might cause grinding. But if it doesn't then it will be ok. I suspect it's probably not the best drive experience though. Based on my experience. GD

I am of the experienced opinion that anyone who still clings to the EA82 has not experienced the joy of the EJ engine and of driving the Legacy platform. The Loyale engine leaves a LOT to be desired in performance, economy, reliability, and ease of maintenance. And it now has dwindling parts availibilty which is going to kill off the platform for all but a few collectors, etc. Engine oil pumps are now discontinued, obsolete, and unlikely to ever be produced again. That's pretty much going to end the platform except for those who install EA81's or EJ's in their place. From a Subaru mechanics perspective - just about all of us despise that engine and see it as a low point - a solution looking for a problem. Everything they did with that engine could have been done with the EA81 with higher reliability and simplicity. They corrected their mistakes with the EJ. The first generation Legacy was without a doubt one of the finest cars Subaru has ever produced. GD

Parts are getting tough to get. It's probably at a point where it will not be economically viable to continue to repair it, etc. Get a legacy. GD

It shouldn't make any difference. And no it will not hurt anything. GD

Lube doesn't typically get on the gasket surfaces because the threads don't start till about 2" down into the block holes. It's never been an issue for us. Lube is required. The bolts cannot be installed dry - the torque procedure will not yield accurate gasket crush. GD

Just to clarify - the paint marks differ from year to year. Sometimes the corner bolts are painted (usually black) and sometimes the center bolts are painted (usually pink). There are different torque procedures in different years of the service manuals. Some have the extra center bolt torque at the end, and some have it at the beginning. Depends on which FSM you are looking at. GD

Redline is ok. I didn't get as good of syncro operation with it as with HPGO or Gear 300. But many people like it. If it works for you that's great. The limited slip additive is in most of the gear oils these days. It is only required for clutch, cone, or plate limited slip style units. Most Subaru LSD's are of the viscous type and do no require any additive. A 95 Impreza will not have any limited slip devices other than the sealed 4kg viscous unit inside the center diff. GD

It is not to pre-stretch the bolts. The bolts don't require that. It's probably another creak mitigation procedure. To get the lubricant applied to the bolts down into the threads prior to final torque. There is no reason to skip this step. There are many ways to torque the head bolts. When using ARP studs, the torque procedure is a simple 30, 60, 90 ft/lbs. But they use different lube, different threads, etc. GD

75w140 is often used for racing applications. It puts down a thicker film and will handle greater loads. It may be slightly thicker when cold - the visco is a range and therefore even though both are 75w, the 140 will have a heavier feeling shift when cold. The 140 doesn't flow as quickly so it doesn't cool as efficiently. In the world of a 95 Impreza this means basically nothing though. It will work fine, all things being considered and will not technically harm the transmission. On the contrary it will provide better protection and a thicker film. It may not work as well as the Subaru HPGO with the syncros. Not all (very few actually) 75w90 gear oils work well.... HPGO and Motul Gear 300 are the ones we use. Don't worry about it. If it doesn't grind it will be fine. Better even. GD

STi has good group N mounts: https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/top-hats/sti-b0310fe000-g-sti-group-n-front-upper-strut-mounts?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7dfKBRCdkKrvmfKtyeoBEiQAch0egYA1sV9ivQXuB-4nyAtay2pZinhbe6ISrzoBwQf1E0MaApzC8P8HAQ GD

No offense, and I'm sure you are just having fun, etc, but..... Personally, if I wanted to watch an amateur pull an engine from something he hadn't ever laid a finger on previously I would go hang with the teenagers down the street. Why make a video of something you have never done before and bumble through it improperly disconnecting things and breaking stuff? Removing the engine with the torque converter attached like that is *asking* for a broken transmission pump drive, lost pump drive retainer clip, torque converter lip seal damage, condenser core damage, etc. Further you don't show that you did it wrong and how to do it properly so some guy is going to watch that and ruin his transmission. I know this seems to be popular these days, but it's not actually helping to teach people how to do stuff the right way. It perpetuates the idea that people can do this stuff correctly with stone knives and bear skins and that simply isn't the case if you would like to actually drive the car at some point down the road without incurring more costs than having a professional do it for you. I guess since none of the kids these days can read, this is what has become of America. GD

Get the Aisin one. It will have the best build quality. Notice how it has a heart next to the listing - that means it's a customer favorite. Notice that it also shows the gasket it comes with which is the OEM metal gasket. That's a $6 advantage right there. Other do often come with paper gaskets and these can and do fail. Not to mention they don't come back off clean like the embossed metal OEM version. GD

We generally stick with Aisin, Paraut, NPW for the water pump. I have no experience with Bosch. GD

It does not require "scanning". The SRS system is self-diagnostic. You just ground a pin on a diagnostic plug under the dash and the light will flash the codes to you. Unexpected deployments are basically unheard of. You need not fear them "going off". If the light is on then the system is 100% disabled and cannot deploy. GD

What does this gasket look like? If it's basically o-ring material like the EA82 seal you could likely make one... you just get bulk nitrile o-ring material and use super glue or they sell kits with the glue and various diameters... If it's basically a flat flange with a groove in it you could also potentially fill the groove with JB weld, "surface" it on some glass, and then seal it with something like Hylomar. If you haven't used Hylomar check it out - its like..... liquid velcro for gasket replacement. Can be removed and reinstalled an indefinite amount of times. So you can install the part, remove it and clean any squeeze out from passages, etc then reinstall it. It will handle crazy high temps like 600 F. Was designed for Rolls Royce turbine engines. GD

I buy a lot of cars somewhere between the junk yard price and the "craigslist" price because I point out to people that they indeed might get a little more - but you have to deal with people that buy sub-$1000 cars from the internet classifieds.... these may or may not be people you want to know where you live or even meet in person. Just depends on how close you are to a major metro area. Around here..... I generally avoid that potential interaction personally. Check local Subaru shops in your area. They might want it. Probably not but you never know. I don't buy anything older than 2000 unless it's a highly desirable like an Impreza coupe or OBS. GD

$500. The junk yard will give you $200 if you are lucky. GD

Those are garbage. Get a proper skidplate from Primitive Racing. GD

There is at least one documented EG33 running twin GT40's pushing in the neighborhood or 1200 HP. They have a billet stroker crank that takes it to a 3.6..... Start with the EG33 if you want power. It's a beast. As said the ER27 heads won't flow no matter what you do to them. The EJ22T heads have the same problem. They top out at about 250 HP of airflow. All the Subaru single cam heads have severe flow limitations. The dual cam heads will flow TONS of air. We have flowed 450 HP with EJ205 heads using stock valves and no porting or polishing. Just cams and 26 pounds of boost. GD

I can't recall if that model had a speedometer cable or an electric speed sensor. Whichever one it has is probably suspect. GD

Shavings just drop into the exhaust port. Will not do anything. In fact they will either get blown out or melted. They don't have enough mass to handle exhaust gas temps without being vaporized. GD

Heli-coil style inserts are JUST FINE if you know how to properly install them and you use quality inserts and tools. I have installed hundreds including for cylinder head bolts on EJ's for which I made special tools to do it. I have NEVER had a failure. GD

You can't do any of this. You are, manifestly, not capable of rebuilding the engine, nor are you capable of "rebuilding" the turbo... not unless you have a VSR Balancing machine laying around. You might install a new CHRA, but that is not technically rebuilding. Engine rebuilding of a Subaru split block engine is not a process that you will be successful at the first time around. It is *barely* a skill I can teach with hands on training. Without the experience or hands on training by a master you will not succeed. There are no reference materials for this process and don't think the service manual is going to help - it is useless. Don't do this. It is beyond your skill and your budget. Get an EJ (don't rebuild that either) or an EG33. We haven't even discussed the engine management. That is a whole different discussion, and if you plan on using megasquat (not a typo) you will fail for a whole extra set of reasons. Not the least of which is Subaru engines are VERY sensitive to detonation and megasquirt has terrible support for knock control. You'll beat the bearing right out of it. In any case you can't do it because you can't get the parts to do it. So this is dead on the vine anyway. GD