GeneralDisorder

You can install heli-coil's directly into the spacers above the header flange. It's already the right size to run the 10x1.25 STI (screw thread insert) tap into it. Then you install a heli-coil but don't break off the tab at the bottom. Use exhaust studs for a Legacy from the dealer and let them hit the tail on the heli-coil as a depth stop. Then just bolt up the header as normal. Been doing this for about 20 years now.... You can also remove the spacers as noted but if you do this you will have to either rotate the flanges on the header, or you will still need to do the thread repair. Also the header may not fit as well since technically the headers that didn't use AIS spacers were taller to account for there not being a spacer. It will probably work but the exhaust may hit the subframe and will be closer to the rack bellows, etc. Personally I like leaving the spacers because they are steel and once you install heli-coil's into them the threads are strong and you won't have this problem again. Which is a result of the studs being directly installed into aluminium heads. GD

Aftermarket exhaust is generally garbage unless you spend as much or more than factory parts cost. GD

An inexpensive code reader is in order. Spend $75 or so and get one that does live data, etc. GD

The original airbag code may have been from a failing clock spring. That is the most common cause. Why not pull the codes? Taking the airbags out is not the answer. Just fix the problem. GD

Running a business can be really difficult. It's tough to not forget things. But after that many calls you should have got an answer I would think. Feel free to let me know what you need. I have lots of expertise in the old gens. One of my guys has two GL's and an XT6 and another has a lifted EJ swapped hatch. Not to mention I daily drove them for about a decade personally. There isn't much we don't know.... If anything at all! GD

You're making it over-complicated. Drain the oil, fill it with 4.5 quarts. You'll either be right on, or slightly over. It will burn off since they pretty much all use some oil. Shut the engine off and wait at least a minute. Pull the stick, wipe it, and then take a reading. If it's showing at least somewhere above the bottom fill hole - good to go. It's virtually impossible to uncover the pickup tube in a Subaru pan unless it gets 3+ quarts low. Check it OFTEN. Don't worry about the exact reading as long as there's oil in it. GD

I believe the difference is the can structure due to transmission fluid pressure generally being 2x - 3x higher than engine oil pressure. The Amsoil can is rated for the pressure. Otherwise it's just like any other filter AFAIK. I'll cut one when I get a chance but I'm sure they are just normal filters. We started using them when we realized they were rated for this because I stock them anyway and they are half the price but much better built than stock. GD

We replace them all the time. It's accessible so might as well. I'm an Amsoil dealer and Amsoil calls out the same filter for the trans as for the engine, and so we use those. They are $16 but that's half the price for twice the filter compared to the OEM one's. We have had zero issues. The Amsoil EA filters are full synthetic media. Very, very strong casing (I cut them open with a filter cutter on the regular) and so can easily handle the increased pressure of the trans pump. GD

The Weber can be tuned to get good mileage. It will have to be re-tuned for each emissions test with a gas analyzer and then turned back for good mileage. Good economy/driveability and best emissions are basically mutually exclusive with a Weber. I have got up to 32 mpg with one, but for testing you will surely be retarding the timing and leaning out the idle mixture. The computer is a non-issue. Simply unplug it and the light will go out. The Weber doesn't use it. GD

The noise you hear when depressing the throttle is the transmission line pressure duty solenoid ramping up the line pressure in anticipation of a shift event. The TCU is a pretty dumb critter. It sees TPS voltage go up and adjusts the PWM signal to the trans line pressure to keep the trans from slipping.... It does this regardless of if the engine is running or not. GD

To cover their a$$es. They figure this stuff for the lowest common denominator and when someone screws up they can't say there wasn't a published spec. No mechanic would torque an oil filter. That foolishness takes way too long. Only time I get out a torque wrench is for head bolts, cam/crank bolts, and lug nuts. When doing general assembly that is. Engine building is a different subject entirely and it gets way more complicated than a torque wrench can handle. Bolt stretch gauge.... The issue with general assembly is that virtually all these fasteners get their torque value from a standard chart of fastener torque based on thread size and pitch, bolt grade, and lubrication. And even then it's an educated guess at best. There are way too many factors including thread percentage engagement, type of lubricant used on threads, torque wrench calibration, temperature, humidity, and many more. All you are doing if you are torquing all these fasteners is driving yourself crazy, making the job take three times as long, and in all likelihood unless you have something like the $600 snap on torque wrench that's in my tool box, probably not getting closer than +/- 20%. GD

Any shop or parts store that has an account with Worldpac or IMC. Both are national wholesalers and both carry these brands. The dealer parts guy would know nothing of these brands since they use their own part numbering system, in their own boxes, and mark everything up 300%. The techs in the service department would know, but the parts guy deals in isle after isle of plain white boxes with part numbers labels. He don't know what's in em. GD

You want new belts tighter than old ones since they will stretch. A good general rule is that you shouldn't be able to deflect the belt more than about 3/8-1/2" midway between the pulleys on the longest span. Thats pushing on it with your finger. If in doubt, keep them on the loose side. If they make noise tighten them up. Belt tension gauges don't really work well in practice. With a new belt you might be able to come up with a usable number (assuming you always use the same brand with same construction) but used belts have a range of shore hardness to the belt material from aging and have some amount of wear and some amount of stretch so they have to be tensioned mostly by an experienced and calibrated wrist. Remember - loose is fast. GD

If you are really good you can do the clutch without pulling either one. I've done it - just pull the radiator and slide the engine forward far enough to get at the components. I'm not saying it's easy or recommended but it can be done. I too have done the stand on strut towers and lift engine out by hand trick. That's only for big guys though - and don't try that if you aren't in good shape or the engine will hurt you. GD

Parts are getting harder to find. If you plan to drive it every day then get something else. If you already have reliable transportation then go for it. There's lots of upgrade paths like newer engines, etc that can be adapted. Don't make a project out of your daily driver unless you are crazy like me and other folks on here. GD

First of all that's a problem for startup. The computer uses the start signal from the ignition switch to know when the engine is cranking. This changes fuel enrichment and timing to compensate for the low RPM of engine cranking and it tells the computer you are attempting to start the engine. If it does not know this it cannot help you. The O2 and knock codes will dramatically affect your fuel economy. Fix them. Second - which coolant temp sensor did you replace? There are two. Third - depressing the accelerator prior to starting a fuel injected engine does absolutely nothing but wear our your shoe. If you HOLD the pedal > ~75% throttle *during* cranking it will shut off the injectors and put the computer into flood clear mode. Pumping it does nothing except confuse the computer. It is designed to start without any throttle input. GD

I believe that's right. 05+ you can't buy the solenoid anymore - have to buy the whole valve body. That's how I remember it anyway..... Trans will probably not be compatible. GD

Yes NTN bearing is the manufacturer in Japan. They make the tensioners for Subaru. They make other things like all Subaru's axles, etc. It's the only one that can be trusted unfortunately. GD

There a usually some stuff, yeah. You can kinda judge by the color of the ATF. If it's brown and new stuff gets brown/black real quick then the pan probably has a lot of sediment and friction material on the magnets. GD

That is the factory NTN unit, yes. No on NAPA or AutoZone. All junk. Get NTN tensioner, Aisin water pump, and Mitsuboshi timing belt. The idler aren't usually a problem but we stick to Koyo and NSK. GD

We just do drain and fills because we don't want to disturb any of the sediment in the pan. If it's really nasty we will pull the pan and clean it first. GD

You cannot use anything but the stock NTN tensioner. All the aftermarket ones are complete garbage. GD

That wire is supposed to have 12v at all times. It's the remote sense wire but in practice they just crimp it back into the main output from the lug on the alternator about 8" downstream of the alt. The alt will charge without it - that's not the field flash. The dummy light circuit is the field flash. Yes they will self excite but you have to get the alt shaft speed to like 5,000 RPM for that to happen if you disconnect the field flash (dummy light) circuit. GD

Try a couple transmission fluid drain/fills and a bottle of trans-x. If that doesn't do it then you will probably have to replace the transfer clutch pack, and deburr the drums. The fact that the fuse resolves the issue means the clutch is sticking. GD

It's pretty much every manufacturer. They have gone to low friction to increase economy and that pretty much requires oil consumption. Unfortunately the idiot engineers didn't accompany the low tension oil burning rings with larger oil capacity, and dip sticks that don't go below minimum when it's two quarts down. Oil consumption due to reduced engine friction is here to stay - but you need to make it not the owners problem. People can't be expected to check the oil every 1k miles and top it off. That's a PR disaster. People freak out at having to add a quart. Not realizing that their car gets MUCH higher fuel economy because of the reduced friction and the quart of oil is nothing compared to the fuel economy savings. No matter how you sex it up, oil consumption will send some potential buyers running in fear. So they just say nothing. And get sued. It's sooooo stupid. Hello? Subaru! Extra capacity and change the dipstick you dipsticks! GD