-
Posts
23391 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
435
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
-
We use the Deatschwerks pumps on pretty much everything - even have one in my Trans Am and put one in a friend's Vette. They run about $95 shipped to your door with install kit. Sure it's more than junk yard but it's new and it depends on how much you value your time to search the JY. I can't justify going myself anymore. GD
-
The 25D was always a 10mm pump engine. It wasn't till the 251 came along. Strangely the Legacy 251 came with the 7mm and the Impreza/Forester 251 came with the 9mm. Explain that one.... heavier car with smaller pump? I guess fuel economy. Really, really, REALLY stupid idea Subaru! Like the low tension rings in the FB. WTF? GD
-
Thanks for the kind words Judy. Really glad I could help point the dealer in the right direction for you. Diagnostics can be tough and finding people that can do it is very, very hard. To anyone out there that wants a career in this field - learn diagnostics and how to run a scope and you can write you own ticket. GD
-
Valve lash *can* be done without pulling the cams. There is a special tool just for 97 to 99 25D engines made by Kent moore.... no one does it often enough to buy the $300 tool though. The only other thing that uses bucket-shim is 2002 WRX's for which you need a different tool.... after 02 they went to shimless buckets and removal of the cams is mandatory. We do it as part of the 105k service. It is typically around $1150 to $1250 for everything. That includes all timing components, water pump, valve cover gaskets, cam seals, valve lash, any shims required, spark plugs, etc. This is the same as any 03+ turbo model so it's the same price for a 25D as it is for a 2016 STI. To put it in perspective.... GD
-
The metallurgy on the Subaru engines is very, very good. The only wear that occurs in the valve train is the burning away of the valve face and seat. Thus causing (mostly the exhaust) valves to tighten and eventually to hang open and burn. This take 100k+ miles to become a problem though. They never make noise unless someone got in there and moved shims around. Tensioners definitely make knocking noises. Often sounds exactly like a rod. Stethoscope on the tensioner mounting bracket will tell for sure. There are no paper copies of service manuals for 95 and newer. They do not print them. You can download and print if you like. They are free over on sl-i.net. Just Google free Subaru factory manual sl-i.net, etc. GD
-
The vacuum accumulator canister is for the HVAC controls. A diagnostic smoke machine is pretty much a must have for troubleshooting turbocharged engines. It's very hard to find small leaks or leaks that only really show under boost without one. A good mechanic will probably charge a minimum 1 hour to do a hookup and show you where the leaks are. Otherwise you pretty much have to take it apart and do visual on every component. GD
-
The boost pressure should be the same. Sounds like possibly a boost leak somewhere. Should be an idle control check valve somewhere.... hoses, etc. You don't usually see vacuum above the throttle plate. The throttle plate at partial throttle act's like a venturi and creates the vacuum. Once you get it open far enough to read anything above the throttle blade - well it's making boost at that point and the reading would be almost zero if it wasn't anyway. GD
-
The solid lifter valve trains don't get loose, they get tight. Look elsewhere for your noise. That won't be it. GD
-
It IS NOT a lifter since a 98 Forester doesn't have hydraulic lifters unless someone swapped in an older 2.2 engine or a 96 2.5 engine. Could be piston slap, could be timing belt tensioner, could be rod bearing. Don't attempt a rebuild. It's not for a DIY'er. Get another engine or bring it to me if you really want a rebuild. GD
-
It depends on if you have an bore gauge, micrometers, and are willing to learn to use them for this job. Also need to find a machinist that can do a mainline hone. The process of insuring proper alignment of the case halves during assembly involves noting how the case "wants" to go together and then rather violently "aligning" the case halves using the crankshaft, a dead blow, and a modified torque sequence as you do the final assembly. Basically "walking" the case into alignment using the crankshaft journals. Same goes for the rod bearings. It is also helpful to "read" the wear patterns on the old bearings. This will shows what journals need work and if the crank and rods are straight, or need to be corrected or replaced. GD
-
Well if it blows cold it's not low on refrigerant - which can cause noises due to the lack of oil circulation because the oil dissolves into the refrigerant and is moved around the system by it. This also indicates no clutch slip. And if it stops when the compressor stops then it's not the clutch bearing. So the compressor is on it's way out. There really isn't much else to it unfortunately. GD