GeneralDisorder

Many dealers will gladly ship you the parts you need. Call Lithia Subaru in Oregon City, Oregon. Tell them Rick from SSI sent you. GD

EA81 distributors are already factory electronic. GD

Just have the lines custom made. It's usually not expensive. Last one I had done was about $75. GD

Anything is possible. GD

You replace all the o-rings and charge the system after pulling a vacuum on it. It's out refrigerant and will need the o-rings to hold in the new charge. GD

Check for fuel pressure. Disconnect the line from the filter to the fuel rail and run it to a bucket. Cycle the key and check for fuel flow. Should be quite a bit of fuel from that line. GD

Sorry wasnt done posting - see my revised post. GD

00 to 04 Legacy engines have 7mm oil pumps..... We replace with 10mm pumps as a routine measure against low oil volume. We see a higher than normal incidence of rod bearing failure due to low oil volume. As these engines age the #2,3,4 main journal clearances open up due to crank flex - it deforms the aluminum case and causes increased clearance and oil volume requirements. When rebuilding the Subaru split block engine it is essential that the main line be honed after cutting down the smooth case half to restore proper main journal clearances. In the case of used 251's from pre-05 models the 7mm oil pump can't keep up with volume demand due to increased bearing clearance (not wear) on the main line. GD

Technically they are not supposed to be reused. They are supposed to be replaced any time they are removed. I would just get a new one from Subaru. GD

We have done it a couple times with positive results. Have you checked to insure clear passages and that the transducer is good? Watch the MAP sensor while activating the EGR solenoid? That's where I would go with the next test. GD

It is probably an Outback or GT. Either would have the 25D and can be swapped to phase-I EJ22's. GD

AFAIK this is only true of OBD-I heads. But yes there are heads from the early 90's that cannot be drilled or you hit the water jacket. Done it myself. In this case the only viable choice is to T off the IAC hose. GD

NOT correct. It is pulling air from above the throttle blade and it drops the manifold pressure. I understand why you think that, because the EA's are like this. But if you try to fool the ECU by giving it only the solenoid you will fail. I've seen many cars come in with engine swaps where this was not properly addressed and they couldn't figure it out. It needs to see the MAP signal change or it throws an EGR flow code. EGR solenoid circuit is a different code. GD

True but because of the arrows the pistons are right and left part numbers. The valve reliefs on the AVLS pistons mean they can't be turned upside down like the older pistons. On the older engines you would have the A or B upside down on one side of the engine because they only made A pistons and B pistons. With the AVLS motors they make A, and B and RH and LH pistons in each size. The dome shape of the piston fits the chamber shape on the heads like a key in a lock. So if you flipped the piston upside down it would hit the cylinder head or valves at TDC. GD

I haven't noticed much difference in the HPGO vs the Extra-S. Both work pretty good. Neither works as well as Motul. GD

Yes it is likely using the MAP sensor for this. The older models pre-EGR didn't have a MAP sensor so it's introduction (on an otherwise MAF based system) was likely to comply with OBD2 requirements to monitor the EGR, etc. Opening the EGR at light throttle cruise is going to result in a change to manifold pressure. GD

On rears you can just have a friend push the strut top down while you start the nut. The coil rate on rears is low. You don't need any spring compressor at all. GD

Don't bother with a rebuild. I have NEVER seen one done correctly (ie that actually worked right). Just find a low mileage 4.44 from a 98 outback, put synthetic ATF in it, and run it. Keep looking, you will find one. GD

Just pickup some Subaru HPGO from the parts counter. It works very, very well for the price. You will need 4 quarts. I haven't had any luck with Amsoil or Redline (and I'm an Amsoil dealer - mostly for their engine oil though) in the Subaru manuals. Redline wasn't the worst thing I've used but nothing cures grinding like the Subaru HPGO (formerly Extra-S). Motul Gear 300 is in a class of it's own. It's like liquid silk in these transmissions. But it's $25 per liter.... The STi guys are the only ones that buy it. I replace center differentials at a rate of probably 4:1 against transmission overhauls. Not just WRX's either. It's all of them even the low power NA engines. You won't be making enough power to harm the gear teeth on the trans with that engine. But it is a failure point and depending on how it was treated before you got it, they could be weakened. There are stories of people breaking 2nd or 3rd on test drives back in 02/03. GD

Yes that will do the job. Get the TCU for it also so it corrects the shift points. GD

There is no way to tell what is going on inside the trans without tearing it down. Who did the "rebuild". Sounds like they didn't know their Subaru transmissions well. The only gear oils that work are Subaru HPGO, or Mogul Gear 300. Everything else grinds. Common failure points on the Bugeye trans are center differential, transfer housing bearings, and of course all the teeth ripping off third gear. GD

You don't want it German virgin tight. You want it AK-47 tight. Remember - loose is fast. GD

You're going to have to prove that one. They all came with R160's. You are mistaken. Run the part number for the rear diff cover. You'll see..... The 95 will not be the one you want. That year was not a "real" Outback and I don't think it has the 4.44 final drive. The late 97/98 4EAT is the one you want. They changed some things internally and they are stronger. GD

The SVX came stock with an R160. It's a direct swap. The R180 is only used in STI's. The VLSD's are worn out, useless junk by 50k miles. There is no easy answer to this but you *can* source a 4.44 VLSD from a Forester XT, etc. Not that it will be any good unless it's virtually new. GD

You have had relatively good luck. But a personal sampling of 8 Subaru's is minuscule. I work on 8 Subaru's a day between myself and my tech's. I've owned.... IDK maybe close to 100. Being a specialty shop, we get all the repeat failures from the "other guys" that recently did the job. I see lots of shops that obviously JDGAF. And plenty more that "try" but it wasn't good enough. Mostly through the use of aftermarket parts and improper procedures. The best mechanic will fail though if the part isn't manufactured correctly. In the quest for advertising the "lowest price" they buy the cheapest parts. That's how it is - with the aftermarket parts suppliers, and all our competitors. We refer to it as the "Race to the bottom". Bottom dollar. They want to get the cars in, get them back out, and collect the money. There is no F**ks given as to longevity because all these shops have "deals" with the parts suppliers that if they only buy their parts, they will reimburse their labor (at 50%) if the part fails. Inconvenience to the customer, and potential collateral damage is not considered or cared about. They just want the "best" price, and the "best" warranty. And if it only lasts a few years - well sorry to you Mr. customer - you got what you payed for and it outlasted the 12 month warranty so "our hands are tied". Sad face.... That's not how I operate. If it fails and it shouldn't have. I fix it. Period. No cost to the customer. I don't give warranties - my word and my reputation are all that anyone needs and if that's not good enough then take a walk. See what else is out there. Doesn't matter a lick to me - I'm swimming in work and customers that appreciate what I do and how I do it and are willing to pay for the privilege - and trust me - it's a privilege. GD