GeneralDisorder

The 6 speed does not require an adaptor. The EG33 has the same bell housing as every other EJ including the STI. You CANNOT use a phase-II automatic. Period. The engine computer will not communicate with the WRX auto trans computer. It was not designed to do so. The speed sensor system is not compatible with the EG33 computer and you will have codes that you cannot get rid of. Will not smog. No way, no how. There is also NO ADVANTAGE to using the phase II trans. Just get a 98 Outback or Forester 4.44 final drive trans, diff, and computer. It will bolt right in and work with no modifications at all. The early Phase-II transmissions suffer from delayed engagement and the filter causes fitment issues - you would have to use the 3.0 trans remote filter arrangement... in any case it won't work. GD

They did away with the filter in 07. In any case you can't swap to 99+ because the EG33 computer won't work with it. 88 to 98 4EAT's all have the same center diff solenoid driven wet clutch as the 99+. There is very little difference. Unless you are talking about the WRX 4EAT which had a slightly different arrangement but is equally not possible to swap. The 6 speed can be swapped - no problem electrically. The DCCD system can be run by a stand alone controller (DCCDPro). It needs no ECU interface. GD

It is 1/8" BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper) - if you are talking about the idiot light switch. The analog gauge sender I don't remember off the top of my head. GD

It will have many bent intake valves. This is easy to tell by simply rotating the cam sprockets. There will be obvious massive play and knocking noises as the valve lash is very large due to bent intakes. Can also pop the valve covers off and see the loose rockers.... It doesn't take towing it anywhere or compression tests. The tests are simple and visual. GD

That is not true. All 4EAT's are the same electrically from 88 to 98. There is no such thing as an "OBD-II" transmission. Only the engine computer was required to be compliant with this mandated specification. You can straight install a 98 Legacy Outback 4.44 final drive transmission and matching rear diff. You should also get the matching TCU for the proper shift points. It will plug directly into the SVX harness. GD

Why spend 1700 when you need a $50 set of rings? Cut open the oil filter and check for metal. Probably doesn't need a bottom end just rings typically. GD

Take it apart. The interface with the gorilla behind the steering wheel is always what fails in these scenarios. The socket is broken or loose or something. GD

Allen and "hex" are the same thing. You probably just didn't have it fully seated in the bolt. Also when dealing with this type of thing it is best to use high quality sockets like snap-on, etc. Cheap stuff doesn't fit right and leads to fastener stripping. GD

I find that EJ22's generally need a head gasket around 300k or so. They just wear out. A good overheat will take them over the edge usually. Those cars are getting very old. Chances of getting a good one these days is pretty rare. Honestly the best deal on a Subaru is a brand new one. The loan rates for new cars is very low. GD

Just plan on doing new piston rings and head gaskets. The head gaskets all fail right on up through 2009 models. If it's "been done", 95% chance it's been done wrong. When you get in there (not if), might as well do the rings and a 10mm oil pump and have a reliable lubrication system and an engine that doesn't burn any oil. Between that, and the usual axles, rear wheel bearings, tires, brakes, etc that all 15 year old cars will need, expect to put in another $2,000 to $3,000 if you are having a Subaru experienced shop do the work. Get an automatic. Manuals have more maintenance and less overall reliability. GD

Our local dealer sends the hoses from their service department out for repair instead of buying new ones from their own parts department. A local company - Mac's Radiator - will repair them for about $75. GD

It's usually the high side hose crimps on those models. There's part revisions that addressed the bad crimp joints. GD

Sometimes the failure rate is nearer to 90%+. Check reviews on remanufactured starters and alternators from the likes of AutoZone, Carquest, etc. Sure they give you a lifetime warranty but it's not worth the paper it's printed on when you have to replace it twice a year. I've installed "new" distributors that failed right out of the box. AutoZone again. Had a Chinese water pump destroy an EJ25D. Weep hole leaked all the coolant out and the customer overheated it to the moon. Lasted less than 6 months. There really isn't any recourse except to seek compensation through the retail channel you got it from or dispute it with your credit card company. Gates took it upon themselves to "redesign" the EJ timing belt tensioner for their kits. This in-house new design was made in Canada. Looked like a nice part even. I installed one and it knocked like MAD. Thought the engine had a rod knock - it was incredibly loud. I removed the covers and filmed it knocking and we posted the video on Gates Facebook page. That resulted in a huge backlash on them. Other people took videos removing the new tensioner from the kit and throwing it into the street.... My national wholesaler pulled every kit off the shelf and I got a call from the VP of corporate sales who sent me a gift card and a hand written apology. They pulled that new tensioner from the market, switched back to NTN and told their engineering team to stop messing with it. GD

It would be FAR easier to use the intake manifold gaskets to build some one-off intake manifold adaptor plates and just bolt on the phase II intake manifold. Should be doable with some 1/2" aluminium plate. As long as the sprocket trigger points are the standard 6/7 it should be fine. GD

Yes. There is supposed to be tension. GD

As I noted - don't neglect your maintenance checks on valve clearance if you run them tight. But I've never had a problem. Exhaust valves seem to burn away at a rate of about .010-.015" per 100k miles on the high end. If you rack the valves every 15k as the manual suggests you will not be in any significant danger. They run them loose because people are prone to neglecting their maintenance. Being it's only 2 bolts for the valve cover.... once you get a feel for it you can do it by just feeling the rocker play by hand. Though I don't recommend that till you have been doing it for a decade. GD

The power steering leaks never seem to get one the belt despite that appearance. What do you mean by the cat "seems" good. You can tell from looking at it. Check inlet and outlet temperatures. Outlet should be about 100 *F higher than inlet. Otherwise it's not working. GD

I don't like solid lift valve train noises so all solid lifter setups I put the lash at .006" intake, and .008" exhaust. Just don't forget to do your lash adjustments as specified in the service manual. 10 and 14 is too loose they will flop around like a limp d**k in a windstorm. GD

Nope, never seen that. Impact damage? GD

You will have to swap the diff as well as the trans. And the driveline, and get in touch with Bratsrus1 (Jerry) for a trans cross member kit. GD

Don't even bother with it. The 3AT was a troublesome transmission at the best of times. Parts are not available to address it's common issues at this point (like the pump drive shaft spline stripping, etc). All the parts are discontinued. GD

The head gasket fire ring is clearly blown. You need to check head flatness and proper bolt torque. The gasket and head coolant passage mismatch is normal. That is not a sign of failure or a cause. The previous picture shows clear carbon tracking from fire ring to coolant port. GD

Yes it will fit. Search for 5 speed dual range EA81 swap. Same situation exactly just different 4WD engagement system (electric). GD

You can't sue them. They are large corporations with overseas holding companies and teams of lawyers. They would have you tied up with red tape for years and it would cost far more than just repairing the damage they caused and moving on. And to what end? Make them stop selling the stuff? Hardly. If you won they would just declare bankruptcy, and open under a new name. Welcome to 'Merica. Here in 'Merica we abide by the #1 basic rule of Capitalism: Caveat Emptor To wit: You have come here to ask for the "Caveat Emptor" experience of your friendly, helpful Subaru community. Which has been freely and honestly given to you. Note that no one here has financial interest in your vehicle or it's repairs. I understand being poor. I've been there. But good sense decisions often involve spending more in the near term to avoid spending LOTS more in the long term. Sometimes you just have to put your head down and pull the cart till you can afford to buy a new horse. As for Junkyards - I've seen plenty of cars in the yards that people attempted to repair (sometimes with quality parts even) and failed so the car ends up there with basically new parts on it. This is usually quite obvious. I once bought an EA82 Paraut water pump that was shiny and new at the yard for $5. Many, many years ago. People swap them and find out the HG is blown, etc and junk the car. So if you have the time this can pan out. But it's a gamble and it's trading time for money. Which is what most of us do with gainful employment. GD

Misfire = flashing CEL, and converter was probably already bad from the old engine, etc. We see that all the time. Car comes in for major repair barely running - comes back a few days later with a 420 code. Probably not related to the misfire on the new engine per-se. GD