GeneralDisorder

Did you put the timing belt guide over the crank sprocket on the new engine? If the car rolls backward in gear it can slip the belt without that guide.... GD

No. Those are for turbo applications they are much bigger than stock. Being we never got that engine here in the US I have no idea what injector it uses. Consider taking the injectors to a shop that can clean them, etc instead. GD

Depends on what source you look at. Some say 1.378 also. Other folks say it will work and also it is the one used by PMD for their TSK-1 quill kit. Buy one for $32. Return it if it doesn't work. But it should. Slightly different clip system but that's ok. GD

I did some digging - the bearing you need is for a 1990 Toyota Camry. AutoZone part number: 614084 GD

Probably the only way I can think of would be to use a flap wheel in a die grinder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00413QCX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_52?ie=UTF8&qid=1496377532&sr=1-52&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65 Then you will need a smaller one (like 1/4" thickness) to cut in the grease groove. You will have to go slowly and evenly and check your fit often. GD

I have seen it. I agree it's rare though. But I once bought a 97 OBW - one owner, with every service record from a shop literally blocks from their home. Original head gaskets at about 160k. It had a burned valve in cylinder 4. GD

AutoZone clutches are provided to them by BrutePower for the most part. Some also from Sachs and LUK. My commercial contact is trying to sort this out for "my customer". So far the tech line to BrutePower is disconnected or otherwise out of service, which apparently AutoZone corporate didn't know. While they attempt to overcome that obstacle he was able to get in touch with LUK, who has the correct (1.385" ID) release bearing but will not sell it separately from their kit. Can't locate a number for Sachs at the moment. You need a release bearing with a 1.385" ID. Normal release bearing is 1.300" ID. He is supposed to resume this Rabbit Hole in the morning. I'll get an answer it just takes lighting the right fire. GD

You may have to look at them with high power magnification to see the cracks. Just remelt them and try it. GD

I called my corporate account manager with AutoZone. I am awaiting his findings on a throwout bearing part number to match the sleeve. GD

There is no need for "vital debate". Everyone in this thread already agrees with my statements. You are the outlier in the statistical sampling of members opinions on water pump failure rates. This board is itself a statistical model and I've been a member here for near 15 years. You can start a poll thread if you like and ask what people have good/bad luck with. I'll find my pictures of impeller clearance and post them here if you like. Nearly every failed water pump we see is Chinese. 10:1 ratio. And we change probably an average of three water pumps a week as a matter of course - either due to failure, or as part of a maintenance schedule. We use exclusively Aisin, Paraut, NPW. And we have a failure rate of ZERO. We replace a lot of GMB, Gates, and other no-name China branded pumps that fail prematurely. We rarely replace a bad Japanese pump and it's usually got 150k+ on it. I went through buying and trying the cheap stuff. I've had multiple water pump failures and timing belts that turned to hard plastic and ripped in half at 60k. Its not funny when you bend all the valves in a customers engine. You want statistics - start a poll. No one here but you thinks this junk is ok. GD

Yep - but once they get into modifications, etc, they rarely stay working at the dealer level. There are some old timers at some of our local dealers that remember rebuilding 4 speeds in EA's back when they were new. But it's getting very rare. The auto manufacturers find it easier to swap parts than train master techs. Used to be parts were expensive and labor was cheap. Now it's exactly the opposite. Labor is very expensive and we are swimming in cheap parts from China, Taiwan, Indonesia, Mexico, etc. GD

Last I checked the AutoZone clutch kits had the option of coming with that style (speedi-sleeve) quill sleeve. You might check on a availability of the throw out. Getting that style sleeve off WILL involve cutting it with a die grinder. It's going to be pretty tough stainless steel. You will not be prying that off and if it was installed properly (with 609 loctite) it's going to be Royal Rumble lying that sucker to the mat. If your plan is to remove it, then be prepared with a PMD quill kit as you may find severe damage beneath it or you may damage the quill removing it. GD

That is normal. Due to the difference in pulley diameter the marks walk around and only line up after multiple (many) complete rotations. The belt marks don't matter as long all the sprockets are at 12-o-clock. GD

I don't need any evidence. I have experience and my word is good enough around here. I've done side by side comparisons of impeller clearance measurements, impeller design, and flow calculations not to mention seen more failures and what brand they were than most, if not all, members of this forum. I did not say OEM. I said Japanese origin. Subaru has used many manufacturers of water pumps. We trust Yokahama, Aisin, Paraut, and sometimes NPW although their impeller to housing clearance is less than optimal. There is a substantial difference both in quality as well as in flow characteristics. If you use a cheap pump you will have a more difficult time bleeding air from the system for example- often requiring high reving the engine to get enough flow to clear the air pockets. This leads to hot spots and premature failure of various cooling system components including the pump and it's mechanical seals. If you truly think that a Chinese bearing that cost $1 or less is the same as an NTN, Koyo, or NSK then go right ahead and use the $20 water pumps. Doesn't make a bit of difference to me. I build 500+ HP cars quite often. Trust me you have zero idea what you are talking about here. And that's the only reason I waste my time replying. Because the mis-information is damaging to our forum. GD

DOH! That's correct - EJ engines you can just swap the rings. No problem. The pistons are right and left though so don't mix them up. GD

Someone may have swapped the hood. This is not unusual if they needed a hood and found the correct color off a 99. If it had a 25D it was a 98. GD

3/16" pin punch, 32mm socket. With being in CT and the rust, etc you should probably just take the strut bolts loose rather than mess with the ball joint. Unless you want to take the opportunity to replace it as well. Be prepared for a fight. If the pinch bolt won't come out I suggest lubing it liberally for a month or two and then trying it to avoid breaking it if possible. GD

The dealers are quite limited in what they do, how they do it, and their knowledge of cars made more than 5-10 years back. Some dealers have master techs that worked there when those cars commonly came in, but for the most part the younger guys never see much outside of warranty. They also rarely get inside the short block (most dealers likely never authorize such invasive surgery) and they do no performance work, etc. Dealer techs don't get the opportunity to build and test engines making 500+ HP and so have a much narrower perspective on what can and cannot be done with a Subaru engine. GD

They DO NOT EXIST. If such a thing existed then it's some kind of DMV mistake, etc. I have worked on thousands of Subarus and no such animal was ever manufactured. GD

Just get the OEM gaskets. The 22's never had problems like the 25's. Both those engines are phase I. The 96 heads are better. Roller rockers. GD

I have turned down the ID of a throwout on my lathe to fit a PMD (set screw style) sleeve since it's obvious that's what they are doing in the TSK-3 kit for 06-14 turbo push clutch applications.... So you wouldn't be the first. I wouldn't "sand" it though. I used a boring bar after careful and considered setup on my lathe. You need to make sure it's not tapered and you need to deepen the grease retention groove, etc. Concentricity didn't seem to be an issue as all the throw outs I inspected weren't even close to concentric. I just chucked it by the plastic center ring and eyeballed it - dial indicating didn't seem warranted given the poor manufacturing tolerances I observed. Worked fine though. GD

What year? On phase I 25D engines you install 00 to 05 pistons and then use the 770 part number gasket. This will ensure a lasting repair. GD

Yep. I've only fixed a few dozen of them ;o) GD

96, 97/98, and 99 are all different gaskets on the 25D. To get the right ones you have to get them from the dealer. The gasket is only $9.99 at the dealer. GD

Open it up and resolder the board connections for the harness connector. It's easy. GD