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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder
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Where to buy EA81 Steering Coupler Disc
GeneralDisorder replied to andrsn's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The EA82 u-joint steering column coupler is in the neighborhood of $400. There are some left in the country.... called about one for an 85 a while back. The EJ ones aren't much cheaper. I bought one for a WRX few years back and it was close to $200. GD -
Just put heli-coil's into the spacers. 10x1.25. Get EJ studs from the Subaru dealer. Leave the break off tab on the heli-coil to for the stud to bottom on. Very simple. Takes about 10 minutes. GD
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Scraper and a zip wheel. Sandpaper if you don have that. An hour in the parts washer softens that junk nicely then it just falls off. GD
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It's not negative. It's the truth. I deal with this stuff every. single. day. Low mileage cars that are very old usually have more problems than higher mileage cars. They haven't had their proper maintenance, they haven't been "burned in" with trial by fire, and many times flawed design elements have not been corrected - you'll be needing both rear wheel bearings soon for example. Those were a flawed design. Not to mention the horrible problems with 99 to 02 head gasket external coolant leaks, etc.... They probably did you a huge favor - they would not have done an engine swap unless the old one had some serious problems. As stated unless the trans is leaking from the torque converter (input) seal then it's not related. These transmissions routinely leak from the wiring harness area. DO NOT attempt to fix this. It requires a new harness from the dealer and many hours of labor. It's up near $1k to fix that and they all do it. So just leave it. If it's the pan then reseal it with ATF safe RTV. GD
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Six Star are just rebranded Cometic gaskets with a premium price. Nothing special about them. We occasionally use Cometics when we need a custom thickness (which is very seldom). No real complaints but honestly the 770 gaskets are as good or better than anything the aftermarket has to offer and they are cheap and readily available at any dealer. Pretty much always in stock. Made by Nippon Rienz. GD
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Why don't you look in the trans and see what the condition of the snap ring groove and splines look like? If it's coming out then one of three things is occuring: A: Axle is being pulled out by excessive axial forces pulling on the axle shaft. In your case, probably not. I have not seen this happen on a non lifted car and I think the suspension would have to be so jacked from a collision that it wouldn't drive. I've seen the wheels stuffed into the fender and not pull the axle out. B: Circlip on the stub is bad. Manifestly not if it's been replaced. Sometimes spreading them open helps though. C: Groove in front diff pinion gear that holds the clip is damaged, allowing it to walk out. I have seen something along these lines. GD
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There is no such thing as "glaze". This term suggests some type of deposit on the surface. It's a finely machined surface - with final machining done by the old rings. The new compression ring is cast iron and they seat surprisingly fast. I've heard it said that on the first crank they are wearing in and on the second they are wearing out. Ring seating for us never takes more than 50 to 100 miles. Honestly it's usually done after the 20 minute first run (camshaft break in if applicable) I run them medium hard with 5-10 psi boost if applicable for about 200 then tune them for full power after an oil change. NEVER have them burn oil and compression is always within 5 psi across the board. We just put forged pistons in a 2016 Hyperblue STI with 4,000 miles on the car. It puts down 360 AWHP and doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. GD
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We delete these all the time. Just get some JDM TGV housings. I get them off JDM import engines quite a bit because we put DWB engines into 2.0 cars and use their stock manifold. The JDM engines don't have TGV's. It's not that bad of a job - intake pull is about 5 hours. Do a silicone turbo inlet at the same time. We like Tomei. GD