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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. You will have to use the intake manifold from the 2005. All the electrical is on the intake. Depending on configuration you may have to drill and tap the EGR port in the back of the cylinder head. Otherwise the long blocks are virtually identical. GD
  2. Just get an outback with an automatic. You will be disappointed when someone in a Forester auto wheels circles around you. The torque converter IS a low range when it's not locked. Also no clutch to wear out, smoke, stink. Trust me this isn't what you want. GD
  3. The EA82 u-joint steering column coupler is in the neighborhood of $400. There are some left in the country.... called about one for an 85 a while back. The EJ ones aren't much cheaper. I bought one for a WRX few years back and it was close to $200. GD
  4. You can't easily measure backlash without splitting the trans. There will be too much gear lash in everything else to measure the R&P lash by putting it in gear, etc. You need to split it and measure backlash with a dial indicator and the pinion held stationary. GD
  5. Check to make sure the screw didn't fall out of the distributor rotor. GD
  6. Yes the 1217H. It is 1/3 the price from Nissan. Same stuff Subaru uses now. GD
  7. Just put heli-coil's into the spacers. 10x1.25. Get EJ studs from the Subaru dealer. Leave the break off tab on the heli-coil to for the stud to bottom on. Very simple. Takes about 10 minutes. GD
  8. Scraper and a zip wheel. Sandpaper if you don have that. An hour in the parts washer softens that junk nicely then it just falls off. GD
  9. Absolutely not. Subaru only on all that. Oil pan is glued on. Get the current three bond from the Nissan dealer. You will also need a weird small caulking gun made by Permatex. Local parts houses should be able to get them for about $5. GD
  10. Look at the weep hole. If it's crusty then the pump seals are shot. This is really easy - only requiring laying on your back and a flashlight. GD
  11. No you need the transmission out to take the front differential off. It's not terribly hard though. Some tall jack stands and a low profile transmission jack. GD
  12. It's not negative. It's the truth. I deal with this stuff every. single. day. Low mileage cars that are very old usually have more problems than higher mileage cars. They haven't had their proper maintenance, they haven't been "burned in" with trial by fire, and many times flawed design elements have not been corrected - you'll be needing both rear wheel bearings soon for example. Those were a flawed design. Not to mention the horrible problems with 99 to 02 head gasket external coolant leaks, etc.... They probably did you a huge favor - they would not have done an engine swap unless the old one had some serious problems. As stated unless the trans is leaking from the torque converter (input) seal then it's not related. These transmissions routinely leak from the wiring harness area. DO NOT attempt to fix this. It requires a new harness from the dealer and many hours of labor. It's up near $1k to fix that and they all do it. So just leave it. If it's the pan then reseal it with ATF safe RTV. GD
  13. Yes it is compatible. 1999 to 2004 SOHC 2.5 engines are interchangeable. You bought an 18 year old used car. Fix the leak. This is to be expected. If you want a new car with a warranty you should buy on of those instead. GD
  14. Wouldn't sell. Honda doesn't sell that many ridglines. The American market wants big, 4wd, full frame trucks. That trend will not be going away anytime soon. Toyota owns the import truck market. GD
  15. Six Star are just rebranded Cometic gaskets with a premium price. Nothing special about them. We occasionally use Cometics when we need a custom thickness (which is very seldom). No real complaints but honestly the 770 gaskets are as good or better than anything the aftermarket has to offer and they are cheap and readily available at any dealer. Pretty much always in stock. Made by Nippon Rienz. GD
  16. Resolder the circuit board. When you open it be careful as sometimes the resistors have fallen off the board and they are quite small. Takes about 5 minutes to fix it with a soldering station. GD
  17. It just need the rings replaced, the oil pump upgraded to a 10mm and maintained with full synthetic oil. GD
  18. If you wait another 20 years it probably will be worth something. But you need to park it in your garage and don't put any more miles on it. Honestly it's a 20 year old Subaru. It's at the bottom of its value. Around here, that might fetch $3,000. GD
  19. Why don't you look in the trans and see what the condition of the snap ring groove and splines look like? If it's coming out then one of three things is occuring: A: Axle is being pulled out by excessive axial forces pulling on the axle shaft. In your case, probably not. I have not seen this happen on a non lifted car and I think the suspension would have to be so jacked from a collision that it wouldn't drive. I've seen the wheels stuffed into the fender and not pull the axle out. B: Circlip on the stub is bad. Manifestly not if it's been replaced. Sometimes spreading them open helps though. C: Groove in front diff pinion gear that holds the clip is damaged, allowing it to walk out. I have seen something along these lines. GD
  20. There is no such thing as "glaze". This term suggests some type of deposit on the surface. It's a finely machined surface - with final machining done by the old rings. The new compression ring is cast iron and they seat surprisingly fast. I've heard it said that on the first crank they are wearing in and on the second they are wearing out. Ring seating for us never takes more than 50 to 100 miles. Honestly it's usually done after the 20 minute first run (camshaft break in if applicable) I run them medium hard with 5-10 psi boost if applicable for about 200 then tune them for full power after an oil change. NEVER have them burn oil and compression is always within 5 psi across the board. We just put forged pistons in a 2016 Hyperblue STI with 4,000 miles on the car. It puts down 360 AWHP and doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. GD
  21. We delete these all the time. Just get some JDM TGV housings. I get them off JDM import engines quite a bit because we put DWB engines into 2.0 cars and use their stock manifold. The JDM engines don't have TGV's. It's not that bad of a job - intake pull is about 5 hours. Do a silicone turbo inlet at the same time. We like Tomei. GD
  22. NEVER use the torque converter out of a bad trans. Instant fluid contamination. They cannot be cleaned, etc. Just get the right flex plate. Find out via the code on the bell housing what it came from and order a flex plate for it. GD
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