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GeneralDisorder

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  1. GeneralDisorder
    We had one done a few weeks ago by Six States Distributors driveline shop (Portland Oregon location): http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp These guys do thousands of MONSTER drivelines for heavy trucks. $190 for a new section of tube, welded, balanced, painted, and serviced u-joints. GD
  2. GeneralDisorder
    You can also just drop a used 251 bottom end under the 25D heads. But the 99 had the 8 bolt case with the 52mm rod journals and #5 thrust. If it's not chowdered then swapping the pistons will give you the higher compression and allow running the 770 head gasket. Won't fail again if you do that. GD
  3. GeneralDisorder
    Subaru has a reman program. The axles are $193 each. GD
  4. GeneralDisorder
    Sounds like the sensor is telling the computer the engine temp is lower than it really is. When you unplug the sensor the computer sees a circuit fault and runs the fans continuously as a fail-safe. GD
  5. GeneralDisorder
    We just had a DOJ fail on an 03 forester with same symptoms. It felt ok and no torn boot, but one of the tripod bearings was wasted inside - 1/16" of play between the bearing and tripod/pivot. Shook on the freeway, etc. I found it by running the car on the lift and feeling the shafts as it rotates under brake load.... Swapped axle for Subaru reman. Problem solved. GD
  6. GeneralDisorder
    Not a bad idea to replace the coolant cross over pipe o-rings. Careful with the 6mm bolts they like to snap off if you have a corroded block. Pretty much any of the 6mm stuff like the water pump bolts like to strip out if someone has over torqued them in the past. One of my tech's insists on using an inch pounds torque wrench on the 6's, 8's, and 10's holding the idlers, etc. I don't personally, but it's up to how comfortable you are. We end up doing thread repair a LOT. Have had to do all the water pump bolts and all the coolant cross pipe bolts on a block more than once. Broken tensioner bolt is sure sign of ham fisted tool operator. Check all bolts for stretch, and all threads for damage. Probably best to heli-coil ALL the holes if any of them are suspect or stripped. It's cheap insurance really. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder
    Black means it's been replaced. Put a Viton one back in. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder
    Cut open the oil filter. If it doesn't have any metal in it, then swap the pistons for 251 flat tops and use 770 gaskets. Nice compression bump - run 92 in it. Makes about 180 HP. GD
  9. GeneralDisorder
    I have a customer with one. Nothing really special about it. Heated seats as I recall. GD
  10. GeneralDisorder
    Yeah the Nissan sprockets DO NOT come off. Last one I did on a Pathfinder we had to get it darn near glowing red hot to break it's hold on the crank. We got it off, basically undamaged, but it had been subjected to so much heat I elected to not use it anyway. The Subaru sprocket is nothing like your Nissan experience. The steering wheel puller will take it right off. GD
  11. GeneralDisorder
    The two holes in the sprocket are cast the correct size to be tapped for 8mm x 1.25. Then you use a steering wheel puller. Grind off as much of the mangled key as you can (die grinder, etc) and get a new balancer, key, and sprocket from the dealer. This is caused by incorrect balancer bolt torque. Make sure it's torqued to 137 Ft/lbs. GD
  12. GeneralDisorder
    Actually you will not need to replace them if you have a bent valve. The valves can be removed easily without removing the camshafts. You don't need a machine shop for this. Just lap the new valves in and reset the lash. Can easily be done in an hour with a suction cup lapping handle, and a valve compressor. This is the BEST valve tool we have ever used: http://www.toyotool.com/index.html GD
  13. GeneralDisorder
    Don't touch the rear main seal, front main seal, or the cam seals. They are Viton and will last the life of the engine. Trust me - you'll potentially create more problems. People routinely get the rear mains installed incorrectly and they leak. If you don't touch them they will be fine. GD
  14. GeneralDisorder
    I caution against splitting the block unless you have experience with them. Subaru bottom ends are not forgiving. You can do almost anything you like with the top end and be fine if you aren't a hammer and chisel mechanic. The mains and rods and the aluminum case however is another story entirely. I don't care how many inline 4/6's and V8's you have done. These aren't like that at all. GD
  15. GeneralDisorder
    Head gaskets on those are not that bad, but prepare for a fight with the intake manifold bolts, etc. Most likely one or more of them will snap off in the head so be prepared with left hand bits, and 8x1.25 thread inserts. Also thread insert the exhaust studs (10x1.25). I just get new studs from Subaru for the EJ's. If it has air injection spacer plates you can thread insert directly into the plates and put the stud in them instead of the aluminium head. GD
  16. GeneralDisorder
    Derp... Canada. That's why. I didn't catch that. Call a dealer in the states and get some remain axles shipped up. Or get the part number. Dealers do ship parts. Mine does it every day. GD
  17. GeneralDisorder
    You don't need a leak down test. Just pull the valve covers and check the lash. Much quicker. GD
  18. GeneralDisorder
    This is a turbo charged model. You need to proper scan tool with live data. You need to check fuel trims and O2 sensor data. Your symptoms match a variety of potential issues. O2 sensor is the most likely candidate - get a new one. Used is just silly and at that mileage it should be replaced anyway. Could also be an intake leak, etc. There is very little difference between that engine and a 305 HP STI engine. It's a highly complex, production rally car engine. You need to treat it with proper respect and care or it will be a steaming pile of aluminum with quickness. Do not troubleshoot with Visa. Get a scan tool and learn to use it or find someone that can. GD
  19. GeneralDisorder
    You want to run it medium hard - 3/4 throttle right off the bat. Cylinder pressure seats the rings. After 200 miles hammer on it. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder
    Head bolts are reused. DO NOT touch the crank seals, cam seals, or valve stem seals - they are Viton and are good for the life of the engine. Just put in new valves, set your lash, and put the heads back on. You don't need a pickup. That happens on 300 HP STi's, not the non turbo engines. 1LT - the pickup is easy. Use the new 3 Bond 1217H. Get it from the Nissan dealer. Much cheaper. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder
    Well the broken bolt is on a plate that unbolts from the block and fits in your hand. So you don't really need to do that..... GD
  22. GeneralDisorder
    You don't need deck plating till you are pushing over ~25 psi boost..... you have a non turbo with cast pistons and nearly 10:1 compression. Not happening. Besides, it's the wrong block. You start with ano EJ255 or EJ257 for deck plating. Which, by the way, is a mediocre solution vs Darton sleeves.... but that's a whole different discussion for a different forum. Heli-Coil's are much stronger than the aluminum. Most racers heli-coil every hole on their aluminum blocks and heads prior to assembly to facilitate disassembly.... because race car. Single cam engine have adjustable rockers, not buckets. And yes replacing the valves will require reseting the lash. GD
  23. GeneralDisorder
    Yep. They over torqued the mounting bolt. Seen it MANY times. They caused the tensioner failure by improperly compressing it and then over torqued the mounting bolt. Line up the crank to its timing mark (line on rear trigger point, crankshaft key at 6 o-clock) and see how many teeth the cams are off. Most likely it's going to have a lot of bent valves. You can just do head gaskets and replace the valves. They are cheap. You will need to heli-coil ALL the idler and tensioner mounting points and replace all the bolts. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder
    Nice. Glad you got the right pistons in there. We just use the EJ257 gaskets but that does up the compression a little. I don't like using the thicker head gaskets because that was the problem with the design all along - they were too thick allowing cylinder wall movement. A friend did his 98 25D with Cometic's (standard thickness for 25D) and ARP head studs and it only lasted 30k and blew the HG's out again. GD
  25. GeneralDisorder
    This is typical of aftermarket axles. That's why we said don't do that. At my shop we use Subaru remanufactured axles from the dealer. They are $193 and it's 1 hour labor for a total of $292. I can do those axles in 15 minutes. Maybe less. You got took. GD
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