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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. GeneralDisorder
    Very few parts interchange. Some gaskets, the crankshaft, rods, and bearings (though none are worth having if you are in that far).... that's about it. The turbo specific plumbing parts that are plastic and rubber will all be shot and you can't buy the majority of them anymore. Which means you have to replace with custom made stainless tubing and silicone couplers if you want it any kind of right and have close to the factory tight bends, etc. VF11 turbos are pretty tough to find in good shape so you'll likely end up getting a TD04 from a WRX which requires plumbing changes and tuning which the only viable option for currently is ESL in the UK. A complete ESL setup with JDM EJ20G ECU to run it is around $1000 plus whatever you pay for the laptop to interface it and then you have to find a tuner that's willing to learn a completely new tuning environment just for you since he will likely never do another one..... a turbocharger upgrade will run typically into the thousands because everything is custom and very few people build these cars. That's just one of many paths that owners of these cars typically go down. I should know - I've had a 91 SS for about 10 years. GD
  2. GeneralDisorder
    Don't use Lucas in it. Just put a good 10w40 in it. GD
  3. GeneralDisorder
    They are getting very hard to get parts for. It is not a cheap vehicle to maintain - you'll end up wanting to upgrade it and it's not quite like a WRX. There are ways to do it but it's not any cheaper than a WRX and starts off quite a bit slower. That's really high mileage - I would find a lower mileage example and remember - a turbo car this old is a project car. You better have something else to drive that's reliable. GD
  4. GeneralDisorder
    Do nothing. The cylinder will be fine. You will create an oil burning mess if you touch the cylinders. Vertical scoring is pretty typical on older EJ22's. Cut open the oil filter to check for metal and CHANGE THE OIL. Overheating breaks it down. If you find metal in the filter get another engine. Take the heads for resurfacing so they seal up. Clean the head bolt holes with brake cleaner and chase the threads with a greased head bolt (optionally buy one new one from the dealer and cut slots in it to make a chase tool), DO NOT wire wheel the bolts - just clean them very well. Use this LIBERALLY on the head bolt threads and between the bolt head and washer. Nothing between the washer and the head: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/engine-assembly-lube/ GD
  5. GeneralDisorder
    Just hard wire it. If you need to pull the manifold take out the 12mm bolt. If you need to replace the sensor - hard wire it again. They can be extremely troublesome so after many years of comebacks due to poor connections we just hard wire them if they give difficulty. GD
  6. GeneralDisorder
    First of all - stop troubleshooting with Visa. When the engine is cold you need to check the ECU live data and get an idea of what the engine is "seeing". Does it see the cam and crank sensors (tach reading), does it think it's 70* outside (coolant temp), does it think it's on top of Everest (MAP sensor), etc, etc. A generic OBD-II scanner that will do all this is about $50. GD
  7. GeneralDisorder
    When you go back in there buy new clips for the axles. They sometimes get slopply or chewed up and don't hold well. We have had problems on lifted Subaru's with axles coming loose. Especially aftermarket axles. GD
  8. GeneralDisorder
    Subaru sells remanufactured short block assemblies for about $2100. It is sure to be cheaper than a used 2012 engine. Last one I did came in at about $5,500k installed with new timing components, gaskets, fluids, etc. GD
  9. GeneralDisorder
    Higher compression pistons, cams, tuning. You can't get much but a good tuner could probably get 25 HP. GD
  10. GeneralDisorder
    Could be the parking brake is frozen. GD
  11. GeneralDisorder
    You can reuse the gasket as long as the engine has not been heat cycled and the graphite composite has not bonded to any of the surfaces. Part of the process of installing EJ head gaskets has them being torqued and then loosened completely before final torque is applied. GD
  12. GeneralDisorder
    Well that's odd. I would say something is amiss inside the tank perhaps. Have you looked inside the tank? Check to see if there's any weird cross connected hoses under the car too. The vent port should be above the fuel level in the tank so pressure should not be building up in the tank. Somehow you have the vent line plumbed to liquid and it's not venting. How that happened is anyone's guess but the problem isn't in the engine bay I wouldn't think. GD
  13. GeneralDisorder
    Probably a bad rebuild. If it works at WOT then it's not a fuel delivery issue. Get a Weber for it and sell it when you are ready to EJ swap it. I can get you a complete kit for about $300. GD
  14. GeneralDisorder
    All alarms on 97's are dealer installed. Yes it can easily be removed - you just unplug it from under the dash. You can get key fobs very cheaply on ebay. Search for the FCC ID code "GOH-M24" GD
  15. GeneralDisorder
    The 2.0 will work. It's no WRX. Hit me up if you have questions on the WRX. Have 12 of them at the shop right now. Have pretty much done them every possible way. GD
  16. GeneralDisorder
    Yes it *is* a special transmission. The WRX auto is different than all the others. It has a special tailshaft section with a more advanced transfer system. You throw away fluid if you want on doing drain and fills but that type of behavior is unlikely to be solved by it. You can't put back worn out clutch material without opening it up. There's no adjustments that can be made externally so that means opening it up and if you do that you might as well overhaul it. GD
  17. GeneralDisorder
    I have used one recently on a Chevy Astro where the resistor coil pack was unobtainable. Worked great. You can mount it in a duct if you want but we didn't. Doesn't seem to be an issue so far. GD
  18. GeneralDisorder
    You won't gain anything from this. The cat is not a restriction for a non turbo. Go get a WRX if you want to play this game. GD
  19. GeneralDisorder
    Just get a used trans. They are cheap. It's slipping and that means an overhaul which is not economically viable nor a good idea in my experience as few trans shops know what they are doing inside a Subaru auto. GD
  20. GeneralDisorder
    Your best bet is a used OEM starter and a new set of contacts. You can order contact on ebay for quite cheap. These mexico reman units are more miss than hit. GD
  21. GeneralDisorder
    https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1489590415&sr=8-3&keywords=pwm+motor+15a GD
  22. GeneralDisorder
    Yes it can easily be done in the car. Feeler gauge and some patience. Do each cylinder with it at TDC compression stroke. GD
  23. GeneralDisorder
    You can get a PWM 15 amp variable speed controler on Amazon for about $15 and have full solid state variable speed control. GD
  24. GeneralDisorder
    Yellow is your vent/evap. Green is the fuel return. Use a two port filter on the supply. Do nothing with the vent, and optionally use the return though it is not needed with carb pump pressure. You can leave both of them open. GD
  25. GeneralDisorder
    You haven't got the valves adjusted correctly. .008" on the intakes, .010" on the exhaust. Personally I go 6 and 8 though. Makes them quieter and if you aim tight more than likely they will end up that extra 2 thou looser than you aimed for anyway. You don't want a 2 liter. The powner loss sucks. Call some yards and find an engine with bent valves from a front-end. Swap the valves out they are cheap. But the noise from your engine isn't a rod. That's valve lash clatter. I do this every day. Sometimes twice a day GD
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