GeneralDisorder

Gates is a complete crapshoot. Trust me you can't trust what they say on the box, and they are going to China in a big way the last few years. Stay away. GD

That's just a web listing. It's NLA (no longer available). They would simply call you and cancel the order. GD

Not much anymore. $500 tops. I bought the same car, same condition, low miles, about 5 years ago for $700. Put in a 2000-2004 style 2.5 engine for $800 and been driving it since. The 2.2 phase II is known for severe oil consumption. Cheapest way to go is call yards and look for a 99 to 04 2.5 engine that's been hit in the front and blown the belts off. Buy a set of valves, lap them in, OEM turbo head gaskets (770's) and do the 105k maintenance, etc before dropping it in. For even better results knurl the piston skirts and throw on a set of rings. GD

Clutch is worn out and the fork pivot point is dry of grease. Get an Exedy clutch kit, have the flywheel resurfaced. Buy the throw out bearing clips and a new fork from the dealer. GD

Just a plain 30 amp Bosch style relay will do the trick and should cost about half that with a pre-wired harness plug. GD

Aisin if you can get it. Aisin is the major supplier to Toyota and makes the finest pumps I have seen available in the aftermarket. It will be Japanese origin almost certainly. GD

There are holes in the sprocket - tap them 8mm x 1.25 and use a steering wheel puller. GD

Sure with enough machine work you could do a dry sump system. But why? Just use an EJ engine instead. GD

Unplug everything in the schematic connected to that circuit and see if the fuse still blows. If it does you have a wiring harness problem (look at harnesses in the doors, etc that have to flex when opening, closing), and if it doesn't plug each thing in one by one till you find the faulty component or sub-system. If you don't want to blow a bunch of fuses you can hook up a meter across the fuse terminals with the battery disconnected and watch the circuit resistance or you can use a test light (incandescent) with the battery still connected and watch for the light to go out when you resolve the ground short. There's three options for you. I'm sure there are other techniques too. GD

They are not open to coolant flow. You do not need to cap them or connect them. Just leave them open. Alternatively you could run engine oil through them as an auxiliary oil cooler/warmer. GD

I just posted this for another member in the old gen section: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162575-1988-gl-10-turbo-wagon-ignition-removal/?p=1352402

The ECM (that it wouldn't have unless its a CA spec engine) does not control ignition on that model. The entire ignition is controlled by the distributor. All the system needs is power to the coil + and the distributor hooked up to the coil. Yellow to negative and Red to positive. If you run a wire directly from the battery to coil + and it does not work then you aren't getting the ignition pulse signal from the distributor module. If you put a test light from the coil negative to battery positive while cranking the engine the light should pulse on and off as the distributor module grounds the negative side of the coil to fire it. If it does not pulse then the distributor module is improperly connected, bad, or the distributor isn't turning (primary side failure) If you do the pulse test and you are getting the pulse then the coil is bad, or you have a cap/rotor/plugs/wires issues not getting the spark from the coil to the plugs (secondary side failure). It's a super simple system - the one pulse test with a $5 test light will tell you almost everything you need to know. GD

There isn't a practical way to rebuild them, no. They are aluminum and once scored up inside it would take a lot of engineering to get one back in spec. One of the design choices I dislike about Subaru engines in general is there use of aluminum georotor pumps. Gear pumps are more robust IMO. The Mitsubishi 4G63 oil pumps for example are excellent and rarely fail. You don't hear about chevy small block or LS oil pump failures either. Those are even better still being submerged and not requiring any priming. GD

Clutch interlock relay, wiring, etc. Just install a relay in the circuit to give it full battery juice and be done with it. Trying to find the culprit will have you jumping trough hoops like a trained pony and like as not it will end up being the harness itself. GD

What clutch kit did you use? GD

Yes it's very simple. Battery positive (through fuse) to normally open relay contact (pin 87), relay contact common terminal (pin 30) to starter solenoid, tie the old solenoid wire to relay coil positive (pin 85), and relay contact ground (pin 86) to chassis ground. That's it. GD

No additional caution is needed and there is no need to lock the cams. It's just like any other DOHC Subaru timing belt job. When the marks are aligned the pistons are all halfway to TDC so the valves can't touch them. GD

It would appear, based on how much play you indicated, that the differential carrier bearing cups are not installed into the screw retainers. GD

Yes. The spring perches will probably be a different height. They would swap but you would be better served with new struts that are for your application. GD

It's a 4 brush arrangement. As far as parts I don't know - we just get starters with warranties - our suppliers don't carry parts for them and it's a lot easier to lean on their warranty than provide my own. We only buy the Denso and Mitsubishi remans typically or the ones from the dealer. GD

Yes - the last Honda that came in on a tow truck we diagnosed by smacking the starter with a hammer and it started. But the starter wasn't accessible so the car had to be put on a lift to do this. Replacement involved removing most of the exhaust system from the header back. Pretty stupid design really. I disassembled the starter because I'm curious like that and the brushes were worn down to nothing and had turned to mostly dust and chunks. And this at ~60k miles. The one before that had 110k. Seems a problem with at least these Mitsuba starters anyway. GD

Do yourself a favor and look into a newer Legacy, etc. Parts for that engine are becoming a problem - such as you can no longer buy oil pumps for them, etc. Not that it can't be fixed but you'll spend a lot of time and money tracking down obsolete parts. Might as well go get a cheap Legacy and be able to get parts for it. GD

The voltage is probably fluctuating because the engine is idling poorly and at too low of a speed. If the alternator is not spinning fast enough it will cause the voltage to drop toward battery voltage (12.5). You need a solid 750 RPM idle to maintain reasonable alternator output and with a bunch of high draw devices turned on that may not be enough and you may still get a voltage drop at idle. But it's not the *cause* of the poor/low idle. You most likely need to address your ignition system, idle control, etc. GD

One thing that is true of all automatics - the higher the speed you shift them at (within their capacity to not slip), the greater the pump pressure and the faster they lock into gear. Faster shifting means less slippage and less wear and typically less heat. Couple that with a good synthetic and you have a combination for potentially longer life. If they can handle the power. Fast, positive shifts are what you want in an automatic for best clutch pack life. Ask anyone with a built V8/automatic that drag races. The 700R4 I just put in my Trans Am has billet Sonnax servos and shifts hard enough to throw the back end loose on the 1-2 shift. GD

We have seen a rash of late model cars (in general) with cracked, worn, chewed up brushes in the starter leading to intermittent slow cranking. I think the last two were Hondas - one with 65k on it. Starter made by Mitsuba. On a car that new it is highly unlikely it has bad cables, terminals, battery, etc. It's almost certainly a faulty part and if it really is, as he says, a "slow crank" then it's probably starter brushes. It's just too new to be anything else. But who knows - maybe he means it's slow to *start cranking. Maybe that's why the dealer thinks it's immobilizer related. GD