GeneralDisorder

Anyone check the brushes in the starter? GD

I think you have some slight misconceptions about the drivetrain layout. The transmissions are not the same - because it isn't a "transmission" but rather a "transaxle" that incorporates the transmission, front and center differentials, and transfer case in one unit. Some parts may swap from a 2WD automatic but those are also rare. Nothing at all will swap from a manual trans. The reliability question - that depends greatly on condition and servicing - but most likely not. The 3 speed auto wasn't the greatest transmission which is why few are left that still work. Honestly any auto from that vintage is about a 150k piece of machinery at best. I just replaced the original auto in my '86 Trans Am at 154k miles. Just reached the end of it's life and started slipping followed very shortly by terrible noises from the pump and made some pretty serious chewing noises and barely made it to my shop to get swapped. All that in the course of about 20 miles. They will fail without warning, catastrophically, and sometimes spectacularly. I've seen more than one 4WD 3AT eat itself with little warning. I haven't seen a working one in about 10 years around here. I would not recommend anything that old for a first time driver. I would say get into the early 2000's and get a nice little impreza or legacy. The fuel economy will be better and it will have airbags. First time drivers almost inevitably wreck a car or two. Give them something that's safe. GD

99 2.2 is solid lifter. GD

Flashing power light indicates stored transmission computer codes. GD

http://www.superpro.com.au Rally sport direct deals in super pro. Just give them the part number you want and they will order it from Australia. GD

It's more the labor to do it than it is anything else. Denso and Mitsubishi both do reman units for a fair price. At least in a shop environment it's more cost effective to replace - it also requires less skilled labor. Sad but that's the reality of our times. GD

If the warning lights come on, you have a bridge rectifier diode failure. Which is a component of the voltage regulator, built into the alternator, and neither available nor easily serviceable. To fix that you replace the alternator. Period. There is no other failure that can create the Christmas tree effect. If you get an alternator for an 85 to 94 Nissan Maxima it will bolt in. Just swap the pulley and the harness connector, etc. These are 90 Amp units. Order a Denso or Mitsubishi remanufactured unit. It won't be cheap but you get what you pay for. Make sure you battery is FULLY charged, and all your wiring is good. GD

I wouldn't worry about it too much. How did you determine the EGR needed replaced? GD

Yes you will need to replace the rear trailing arm. Get a used one - quite sure they are NLA from Subaru. The more complete of a rear suspension sub assembly you can find the easier it will be. Try to find one with a good bearing. Since you will be getting used you should not have to deal with any bushings. Though if you like you can order a Super Pro bushing kit for it and do that while it's apart. GD

It is unlikely that the ignition switch is bad. Install a relay operated by the existing circuit that applies more direct battery connection to the starter. Fuse, relay contacts, starter solenoid. This will take all the existing components out of the circuit that are causing voltage drop. GD

What brand of clutch kit was used? It is probably the throw out as you surmise. GD

Yes www.car-part.com GD

We do just the o-rings all the time. But in recent years it seems like the 99+ stuff has a lot of hose failures. GD

If you get a staged clutch, don't get an Exedy one. They have terrible pedal feel. Competition Clutch is our preferred choice for staged clutches. GD

A little give maybe but pretty hard. It only sets up with exhaust heat though so the copper is going to form to the flanges, etc and then the paste would give it some rigidity. GD

The simple way to do this was to cover the holes with aluminum ducting tape and then pour in an epoxy liner..... which I simply drop it off at my radiator guy to do. Optionally the tank can be acid dipped first to remove all corrosion. But nice job. Just could have been a lot simpler IMO. I probably would have looked for one a little more solid to start with. They are out there. Wagon tanks are the same as Brat, etc. GD

I would use copper: https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Sheet-Metal-12/dp/B00AKMNNX4 Two layers with this in-between: http://www.fswerks.com/products/890100045 Just what I would try off the top of my head. Never done it so unsure about effectiveness. The copper would conform nicely and the wurth exhaust paste cures with exhaust heat so it would glue the layers together....maybe that would give you a .040" gasket or so which should seal up nicely. GD

Probably pull it up with some rope and slide under it to bench press it into place. Good on you for going to that effort. We've all been there. GD

A shaft repair sleeve is a very thin sheet metal sleeve that presses over the shaft and creates a new surface for the seal. They do change the OD but with lip seals the dimension isn't very critical so a slight enlargement isn't a problem in practice. GD

Usually this type of symptom is an ignition problem. Look for arcing wires or cracked plugs, etc. GD

Any driveline shop should be able to fix it. Nissan probably is close - I know their 4 bolt flanges are the same and the old Datsun 510 used the same Hitachi R160 rear diff so you probably have a very good chance that what you found is correct. The u-joints are staked in and technically aren't serviceable but a good driveline shop could fix it. Would be a lot cheaper to just get a whole driveline from the junk yard. Beware that if the OD of the slip yoke is trashed then the inside of the transmission tailshaft housing will be similarly damaged and you would need that as well.... at the least. Usually this means a new transmission as that is some kindof indication of a lubrication problem. GD

Best way is to cut the filter with a filter cutter and look in there. GD

Check heater hoses, etc. Might have strained them tilting the engine around. GD

Replace them with the 770 part number gasket. Resurface the heads and check the block surface for pitting. Chase the block threads and make sure they aren't damaged. GD

May have ingested something at some point in it's life. If the rings are sealed up I would leave it alone. I have used heads with combustion chamber damage like that - just knock down the pokey bits so they don't create hot spots. Should be fine. GD