GeneralDisorder

The mitsuboshi belt auction doesn't come with the Aisin water pump. The water pump is a MUCH bigger concern than the belt. GMB blows goats. The Chinese timing belts will easily last 105k let alone the 60k required by that '95. I've installed hundreds. Water pump failures do happen and GMB or the other Chinese substitutes are crap. GD

Is this Jason's Baja? Those cam journals are not that bad - buff them with some scotchbrite and they would run fine. GD

The factory plugs are good for 90k. Why would you change them at 35k? Pretty much a waste of more than half their life. GD

Subaru Extra-S. Only gear oil I stock at my shop. GD

Very common to see knock sensor failures - the casing crack. I've done dozens of 2.2 swaps and it's come up on maybe one or two. You are just unlucky with knock sensors. I always choose whichever one looks better when I'm installing the engine. GD

With 25D's it's mostly the valve-to-valve interference that bends them when the belt breaks or the engine goes out of time. Since he had the sprockets lined up and only the crank sprocket was off it is likely to be just fine. GD

It would be a lot easier to just get a Maxima alternator. GD

You don't use TDC for timing belt alignment. You use the mark on the crank sprocket - which puts all four cylinders at exactly halfway up in the cylinder. If you did the belt at TDC then it's WAY off. GD

Realistically the mains are not that important on these engines. ACL sells "extra clearance" mains for racing that have an additional .0005" of clearance for example. I have seen plenty of engines run with clearance you measured on the mains and not have any issue at all. The rotating assembly is well balanced and its just not an issue. The rods are where you need to focus. GD

No the way you fix that is to undersize the crank and install undersized bearing inserts. The usual way to measure clearance is with plastigauge with the block halves torqued together. GD

Any alternator will put out higher voltage if its regulator isn't seeing the proper reference or is bad. Just because you are getting 17 volts doesn't mean its automatically the alternator that has failed. Is that Delco an externally regulated unit? GD

Depends on how badly they are damaged. Left up to the discretion of my machinist. Never - if they are damaged they are replaced. Never. If the cylinders are damaged the block is not used. Honing is never done on my engines. It will cause piston slap and oil consumption. Rings will seat just fine without honing. Cylinder damage is unusual. NPR rings (Nippon), and ACL bearings. I don't. I use OEM head gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets, oil pumps & coolers, oil pans, and coolant hoses. The rest I source from the aftermarket - Aisin water pumps, Mitsuboshi timing belts, NTK and Koyo idlers, etc. As for the 2.2 and 2.0 engines - rebuilding them is a big waste of time. If you are going to do it - rebuild the 2.5's. You can bolt 2.0 turbo heads to a 257 with cometic gaskets and the cost difference is not significant vs. rebuilding the 2.0. The 2.2's are too easily sourced from Japan and in good used condition to warrant rebuilding them. 2.5 turbo and non turbo are the only blocks I consider rebuilding. GD

You would have to change the drive gear which means drilling a new roll pin location in the shaft and the drive gear must come from an EA81 Hitachi distributor. Then you have to cut off one mounting ear and move some wiring to make enough clearance to turn the disty once its installed.... I wouldn't call them "small" modifications if you have never drilled precisely located roll pin holes in shafts before..... Also the only EA82T candidate that will work is the 85/86 models. After that they went to optical and ECU controlled timing instead of the separate knock control units. GD

You need the correct four wire EA81T distributor that has the proper connections for the knock control unit. You can't use any non turbo distributor as your timing control will not work correctly. Turbocharged fuel injection needs the ability to retard the timing in response to a knock sensor. None of the two-wire distributors have the ability to run the knock control. GD

Ah indeed they have given you the completely wrong part. Hard to tell from pictures but now I see it. GD

I have two of them and I've used them hundreds of times. Neither has ever failed in any way - nor have they failed to remove any ball joint or tie rod end or ever ripped a boot. Would I have recommended it here on the forum and to my friend Gary if that were not the case?!? GD

Hhhmmm - the standard are 6 ball. That appears to be a 9 ball..... I remember the turbo bearings being a 10 ball..... Now even I'm confused. GD

The ONLY way to do them: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html GD

Nope. MAF logic but still phase-II IAC. Not compatible from a wiring perspective. The ONLY good way to do this swap is with 25D->251 manifold adapters/spacers. GD

If you don't like the answers you get around here - then cease asking us questions. Since you have all the answers and seem to know what the best course of action is - you don't need us or this forum. Totally fine by me. You haven't contributed in the least yet I and others have given you sage advice. You deem it worthless and wish to pi$$ away your money. That's cool - doesn't concern me one little bit. I'll just be over in my corner of the world making money and having lots and lots of satisfied customers. :-p GD

2.2's aren't worth rebuilding - period. End of story. Definitely throwing away money buying a $1700 engine for a '93.... That's worth about $1700 on the open market. At 190k miles the car is nearing the end of its life and a $500 used engine with 150k on it will work out just fine till the car reaches end-of-life at about 350k. I do this every day - 7 days a week. There is just no justification for what you propose. It's a waste of money to spend more on a single component than the car is worth - especially when there are reasonable, prudent, and cost effective options that will not total the car out from a cost perspective. GD

Junk yard, dealer, board member.... Any of the normal resources for parts. Just pick up a phone...... Is your 90 harness from a manual trans car? If so you will need the rare and almost always a piece of crap 90 MT IAC. Hard to find and even harder to find in working condition. $250+ from the dealer. GD

90/91 are three plug and 92-94 are two plug. So you probably have a 92-94 manifold harness. Just get a 90/91 harness but make sure you also get the IAC if the harness/ecu is from a manual transmission since they used a two wire IAC for 90 MT's. You probably should have had someone that knew what they were doing strip your harness. 90 is a messed up year. 95-98 OBD-II harnesses are much better. GD

What years are you harness components from? GD

Wire wheel and they will be fine. GD