GeneralDisorder

Then you are missing the return spring. I'm not a fan of LUK clutches personally. Exedy (OEM) only in my shop. GD

The best thing you could do is get an automatic for it. The torque converter acts like a low range and you don't have to wear out a clutch. GD

I don't have the part numbers - I just call my dealer and tell them what I want. Call Lithia Subaru in Oregon City. They ship. Tell them Rick at SSi sent you.... GD

I don't even have to look. If it's not an Exedy - it doesn't belong in your Subaru. GD

I would try a known good MAF. GD

It's not the rack - it's the steering column u-joint assembly between the column and the rack. GD

The liability will kill it. No insurance company will touch you and the first time you get sued you will be wiped out completely. Even if you win the lawyers and the time involved in winning will wipe you out. And if you don't get sued your insurance will drop you after the first accident and no carrier will touch you from then on. Waivers are a waste of the paper they are written on because it doesn't stop someone from suing you into oblivion. There's a reason only military bases can get away with setups like that. It's been tried and it inevitably fails. Then there's the aspect of generally dealing with poor people that have no tools or place to work on a car, AND no money to pay someone else to do it. It's all well and good to want to help these people out but THEY DON'T HAVE ANY MONEY. And you can't run any business with a customer base of people that are broke and have old broken cars. There's just not enough revenue from that market segment for the costs involved in running each bay with a lift, tools, etc. Then who's going to clean up after all these tool bags that rent your space and tools? What about broken/stolen tools? It's simply too much hassle. I run my own shop and I let a few select friends use it from time to time. Even they don't respect the space like I do. The general public is much, MUCH worse. GD

Not really - take a couple gaskets to someone that can water-jet you the plates. Then countersink some socket-heads to mount the plates to the head and bolt down your intake. Even with paying for the CAD and water-jet time it will be cheaper than rebuilding a 25D. I had some 25D to 22E plates made up to proto-type using the 25D manifold in place of the 22E - thus allowing any year and model of 22E to be used in place of the 25D - not just 95+ automatic's. The only reason I haven't yet done one is because I haven't taken the time to address the EGR tube. But a stainless flex or adding a small section to the factory steel tube will not be that hard. If you order from the dealer you will get the updated gaskets. They pulled all the old ones long ago and disposed of them. At any rate the life expectancy of a replacement 25D head gasket is no more than 100k and often times less. A fellow respected board member here recently mentioned to me that his 25D gaskets lasted about 80k after he had the block and heads surfaced, used Cometic head gaskets AND installed ARP head studs. Didn't matter -they still blew. It's a bad design and there's no solution out there that works. They WILL blow around 100k. Fact of life. GD

You can't expect 12v at the sending unit because there is voltage drop across the gauge. Due to that you can't test for voltage at the sending unit because your test would be meaningless. You have to pull the sending unit out and test for resistance as you move it through it's range. The stock voltages gauges often read low. They simply aren't very accurate. You can't rely on that reading - you need to measure voltage to the instrument panel with a meter. GD

I don't even bother with the o-ring. The plate and block are flat and there is plenty of surface area for Anaerobic flange sealant. I just leave the old o-ring in place and use the same flange sealant that I use on the separator plate. This will not fail down the line like the buna-n o-rings you will get at the dealer. If you must use an o-ring source a Viton replacement. I get Viton o-rings for things like the phase-I SOHC cam tower/distributor cover from McMaster-Carr, etc. There should be a Parker store in your area somewhere (Fluid Connector Products here in PDX) and they should be able to match up any o-ring for you in Viton, or Silicone, etc. GD

You don't need any of the bearings except the rear input shaft bearing. That's the only one that ever fails on the pre-99 transmissions. You will of course need the seals - input shaft, stub shafts & o-rings, shifter rod, etc. The bearing is $27 from the dealer. If you never want to do it again order a bearing for a '91 Turbo 5MT. These have 10 balls instead of 6. About $65. No need to find a replacement transmission - you can easily pull the transmission, replace the bearing, and have it back installed in the same day. GD

Make manifold adaptor plates and use the 25D manifold. Phase-I 2.2 manifold will not fit. Phase-II will since its the same as the 251 manifold but you run into the same issue with with IAC. GD

No. You can't swap stubs on MT's without splitting them open and I am not entirely sure that 4 speed stubs would work. 5MT stubs (right up through EJ stuff) would definitely work. You can build custom axles but unless you want to spend a lot of time at the junk yard trying to piece things together you will need to buy 4 axles from one of the "new" axle manufacturers like EMPI and swap the inner joints around. Factory axles use too many joint/shaft sizes and most cars of that vintage have such a mish-mash of axles in them that there's no telling what will fit - thus the easiest way is to buy 4 new axles - 2 EA81 and 2 Impreza and swap the inner joints. GD

The factory wire clamps are absolutely the best for this application. Worm clamps blow but they work if you observe precaution to not over tighten them. If you have to have it tight enough to cut the rubber then the rubber is too old or the nipple is corroded, etc. T-bolt clamps would work but are bulky and can't be used in all places and are quite expensive. If you want a cheap and effective clamp that won't cut into the rubber and is very clean and tight: http://www.clamptitetools.com/ Since it uses only bulk stainless wire to make clamps you won't have problems with rust and the round profile of the wire won't cut your rubber. GD

I get the caulking gun tubes of Anaerobic for $65 on Amazon. Since the product cannot go bad in the tube its a nice investment. RTV is messy and has a limited shelf life. I do use the copper RTV on exhaust gaskets but that's about the only place I still use the stuff in my shop. GD

52mm vs. 48mm GD

Pull off a rod cap and measure the rod journal diameter. GD

Maybe. Phase-II is larger rods and #5 thrust. Pull the pan and look. GD

+1. Since the oil pump is much larger than the crank snout where the sprocket fits welding the key in place and grinding it carefully till the sprocket fits correctly is the best option. This can easily be done in the car and does not preclude future dissasembly in any way. Often I find that just cleaning up the area and digging the crud out of the keyway will allow it to be assembled carefully and torqued without needing any real repair. The key is just for assembly alignment. It's the bolt torque that holds everything in place. Once the bolt is torqued the key plays no role at all. GD

Make sure it doesn't have any bent valves before you get too carried away..... GD

"front transfer case" and "transmission" are the same unit on a Subaru. It is likely they either screwed up the diagnosis with the "front transfer case" repair or screwed up something when they performed that repair when they had the transaxle assembly out of the car. Either that or they are stroking the insurance company. It is highly unlikely that these two repairs are unrelated and it is also VERY likely that they either don't know what they are doing or are just stroking the insurance company for what they know is really not a big deal to repair. You can repair most things on a transmission without replacing the entire thing. The dealer and independent shops see the warranty claim as a way to make money and not make an enemy of the customer. GD

NOT what I said. EJ251 is 11.5:1 EJ25D is 10.6:1, or for '96 pistons ONLY it is over 12:1 GD

14mm alen on the older stuff. Some of the newer one's have Torx. GD

How did you determine HG failure? GD

It's not an Outback actually. It's a Legacy L 5MT wagon. It's got a '99 Forester engine from some kind of front end collision repair that predates my involvement - and an '03 Legacy L tranny due to massive center diff carrier bearing failure. Had to get another tranny and it to needed the center diff bearings replaced. Common fail item. GD