GeneralDisorder

Not worth rebuilding. Do some searches on swapping to the 2.2 SOHC. And in any case the 25D stock pump is a 10mm - same as the USDM STi pump. GD

Frankly you are going about this the wrong way. The whole point of using the EJ22 is so you don't have to rebuild it. It's already twice the power of the EA81. Rebuilding EJ22's is money down the drain - they are super plentiful and make plenty of power on their own. Also the improvements (other than torque cams) that can be had from "building" one are really small and not worth the effort or the expense. A 90 Legacy is not ideal from a harness or manifold perspective. Especially if it's an MT with that odd one-year 2 wire idle control. The 90's also like to throw phantom codes quite a bit - they were the first year and are especially cantankerous. These days the OBD-II stuff is getting so cheap that it's a no-brainer to step up to a 95+ harness and intake. They do better with torque cams also. GD

And there you have it. Yet one more reason to upgrade to the 5 D/R. As if the 4 speed alone wasn't enough GD

Thanks. Yeah best to stick with the EA81. It was the best of the EA engines. The EA82 was frankly an answer to a question no one asked. It was a timing belt experiment and a way to get a "SOHC" marketing term into the sales brochures. It was overcomplicated and never made a bit more power in stock form than the high performance EA81's and EA71's. Using SPFI EA82 pistons you can get to the same performance with the 81. GD

Never has been worth it. Who told you it was? The EA82 is a horrible engine while the EA81 is quite good. GD

I'm sure you can get an OEM one from Subaru. It appears as though Exedy has abandoned that product. GD

NO! All of the 25D's require the thicker gasket. Dished or not the piston crests above the block. The Outer 1/4" of the piston is still THE SAME HEIGHT as the '96 flat top pistons. GD

Apparently (though I was not present) the guys tried heating it with a torch and it pops and sizzles and smells sweet. It may not dissolve in gasoline - but that doesn't mean they didn't put water in the tank or the tank didn't have some water in the bottom of it - as many cars that have been sitting for a period of time, are 20+ years old, and have 230k on them are prone to having. GD

Non EA82 heads don't crack that I've seen. All three versions of the EA82 heads do and in 99.99% of cases the crack does not matter. People have had them welded, stitched, peened, and pinned - nothing holds. In fact you run the risk of creating a loose valve seat problem if the head *can't* crack in that location - it could pull the material away from the seat instead and the seat can fall out. I can't see how you could find it very interesting to have that happen nor do I see how you could determine if it has cracked again without disassembling the head from the engine to visually check. Further there really is no need for you to test the theory as it is well established in the Subaru community that the cracks will return. GD

Repairing these cracks is a WASTE OF TIME and will not ultimately hold. It's been tried over and over and over and it simply doesn't work. The cracks are benign and coupled with the fact they will return almost immediately it's completely senseless to repair them. GD

Unless the flywheel has been altered it will only bolt on one way. I would highly doubt that is the case so I would investigate everything else before pulling the engine back out. It's also is pretty easy to check if the timing marks are at the right place - just put the #1 cylinder at TDC using a drinking straw or similar instrument and check if the marks in in the window. You can also do that with valve overlap and you could make the engine start regardless of flywheel position by going off the valve overlap and timing the distributor by eye. GD

It is NOT the same engine. The OBXT is the EJ255. It has higher compression pistons, runs a smaller turbo and less boost. There may be differences in the heads as well. Obviously the tune is different and most likely so is the cam profile, ect. The heads themselves may have different valve construction and they may not be the same size. While it can be as fast as a stock STi with the right upgrades and tuning, it doesn't have the potential without changing the pistons. For that matter people break stock STi pistons at stock power levels so frankly they need upgraded as well. But the OBXT pistons are higher compression and would need to be swapped for significant HP gains to be safe. GD

The car was purchased (not by me) with the fuel door broken into and all the intake valves stuck open. The seller claimed it had a bad starter and the starter was in the trunk. After installing a starter it was discovered the engine had no compression and that's when the intake valves were found stuck open. Disassembled the engine to find a gooey, sticky substance in the cylinders, and that's what had glued the valve stems to the guides. At the time it didn't occur to any of us that this had come from the fuel. I postulated that perhaps they had fed something into the intake (as you do with products like Seafoam that are popular) that had caused this. Maybe some smoke-away type thickener product and it had reacted badly with the fuel and coated everything in sticky goo. Engine was rebuilt and ran really well for about 100 miles. Then problems began to arise - idle quality when cold was really bad (in retrospect that was the valves sticking again) and at about 140 miles it developed a rod knock. Upon dissasembly we found the same goo. That's when I realized it had to be coming from the fuel. When it hits the hot cylinder heads it turns into rock candy. Bits of this got into the oil and the sugar crystals chewed the hell out of the rods and mains. It will now require an undersized crank, new bearings, rings, and a new oil pump and pickup. Probably a new oil pan as well. We have all heard tales of pouring sugar in the gas tank but I personally had never seen the results of it. I have heard that bleach in the gas tank will do really awful things also. Anyway - it's an expensive and horrible thing to do to an engine and it's definitely something for the picture archives and for a "machine care picture of the month" at my shop. :-\ GD

No you can't do that. You have a serious mix of 2WD and 4WD clutch parts there. '86 should have the 225mm clutch set but you can't use the 15008 disc because that's a 5MT spline. You need a 225mm 4MT spline disc. GD

Not possible to have a "non conventional TDC" mark on the flywheel. A "conventional" timing light would not work. Since that's not the case the web source is obviously confused - probably confusing the ignition timing marks with the 3 belt alignment marks which are not related to the ignition timing or TDC. The bolt pattern is asymmetric - that's the overriding reason we have to redrill flywheels when doing EJ swaps - EJ's are symmetric since their timing marks on on the balancer not the flywheel. GD

No you can't use any of the EA82 parts easily. Good luck finding EA81 PS parts. You need the whole engine cross-member as the power rack doesn't bolt to the non-power member. GD

Vent lines and the fuel level sending unit. GD

Drill EGR and use USDM manifold. Should be fine. I've done a bunch of them and never had an issue. GD

You should change the plugs - air filter too if you haven't. After that if things don't improve then you need to hook into the live data and do a sanity check on what's coming from things like the coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor, and MAF/IAT sensors. The mixture is too rich and the ECU's fuel trim routines think everything is ok because one of its sensors is out of calibration - that would be my guess. GD

It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. It's just a switch - when it closes the wires connect and when it opens they disconnect. If its been bypassed they its likely the switch is bad. GD

Probably got so hot the bottom end is fried anyway. Probably best to junk it. Put in a 2.2 GD

You don't need to replace head bolts. But you do need to use 2.2 bolts. They are longer than 2.5's. GD

Yeah call Cometic and ask them. Or order the stock gaskets from the dealer. Really the .053's are fine and yield a 10.6:1 CR. It's a good safe place to be. Trust me you don't want to go too high. GD

It's NOT a low oil pressure light. It's a low oil LEVEL warning. GD

Depends on how much the used parts cost you and whether or not you do your own wiring. GD