GeneralDisorder

Kit is listed as fitting both EA81's and EA82's. Can't happen. You need to get a proper Exedy Japanese kit not that O'Reilly's garbage. GD

Probably fried the amp in the head unit. I don't believe there's a separate amp. It's pretty much a direct link from the head unit to the speakers. What happened to the '96? GD

The Subaru engines have German origins but not VW. The design was derived from a car called the Lloyd. A distant competitor to VW and Opel back in the 50's and 60's. They went defunct in the mid 60's and the design was copied and used as the basis for the 1970 Subaru FF1 - their first FWD front-engine car design. GD

Weber is the best option. I wouldn't mess with any Hitachi even a rebuilt one. GD

Subaru issued a TSB to ignore them. Being it's a non-turbo I don't even need to see pictures - just put it back on - it will be fine. GD

Why not just drill them yourself? I've done several sets and if done properly they are no more weaker than they were before. I always weld up and grind down the area where I'm going to be adding the holes for the studs. And weld up the two unused holes. GD

There's not really enough information to need a write up. If you are using a '95 Auto 2.2 then the only thing you have to do is swap the flex plate off the 2.5 and drop it in. There are no modifications required to ANYTHING. It's a direct plug-and-play swap. Pay attention to where things went with the 2.5 removal cause they go back in the same place on the 2.2. The only other item that's sometimes mentioned is the power steering lines - you can swap to the 2.2 lines if you want a completely correct "factory" look to your engine bay but it's not required at all. They are just lower to bolt to the 2.2 manifold instead of the 2.5. It's not a requirement in any way and the 2.5 lines aren't loose or bothered by not having a place to mount. As Dave mentioned there are times when you need to reroute some vacuum lines but this shouldn't be the case with a '99. You should be able to just loop the carbon canister ports on the front of the '95 manifold and everything should work as designed. The '99 has the canister in the back under the car but it connects to the same port on the manifold as the fuel tank vent line connected on the '95. So by looping the canister lines on the manifold you are connecting the '99s canister to the purge solenoid supply line and everything should just fall into place at that point. The really confusing swaps are when you are using a '97/'98 engine in place of a '96 25D.... then a bunch of rerouting is required to enable the front canister to function properly since the manifold has no provision for it on the later engines. GD

Baffle plates weren't plastic till 93... maybe 93.5. Possible - but in my experience it's probably aluminium. Even if it's not I wouldn't pull the engine for a reseal since you won't be doing HG's. Just reseal all the usual suspects - V/C gaskets, cam seals and cam support/disty cover o-rings, crank seal, timing belt/WP/idlers, etc. IF the baffle plate is leaking it's likely not as big of a deal as all the other leaks combined. Probably cut oil consumption down to a manageable level with an afternoon of replacing what I listed above. If you don't want to tackle all that stuff I can have you fixed up - one day turn around. All that stuff shouldn't run more than about $400. The CV boot would be another $120 or so - depending on if you go with a new axle or reboot the existing (probably factory) axle which is a good idea if it's not clicking. Call me if you want to swing by and have me check it out: Superior Soobie and Import 503-880-4084 GD

Choke fuse? Yeah that will happen sometimes with the Weber's since the connection is exposed on the side of the choke housing. GD

Any 2.5 turbo. GD

You realize you will have to completely disassemble the transmission to get to that seal right? Just wanted to make sure you aren't over your head with this one. Pulling a transmission is a lot easier than taking it apart and putting it together correctly. You should be prepared to do the rear input shaft bearing also. You will need access to a press to do that one. They are the most common failure points on these transmissions and if the input shaft is moving enough to damage the seal then the rear input shaft bearing is probably on the way out. For the $40 price of the bearing it's a no brainer..... At my shop it's about $900 to change the rear input shaft bearing, all the seals, R&R the tranny and a new clutch..... this isn't a small job. My turn-around on these is usually 1 day. GD

None of those are that big of a big deal. If the idiot that installed the clutch greased the quill it wouldn't wear and even when they do wear you can just sand out the ridges and grease em up. Works fine. The dipsticks really aren't a problem either - you are just stressing over slight differences in readings that don't really matter. 1/2 quart high or low really isn't going to affect anything. The HG issue is not specific to Subaru. Most other manufacturers had growing pains in the same era. GD

Depends on how blown they are. Geysers are possible but it won't happen in all cases. GD

Yep - the holes behind the oil control rings are the problem. That's what almost always causes oil consumption. The holes are TINY and non-synthetic tends to clog them. I wouldn't hone it. Just clean the piston ring grooves and install new rings. GD

Yep - 255/257 gasket. GD

Used transmission or pull yours apart and replace the oil pump in it. HUGE rip off to pay $2k for that. GD

83+ actually. The intake valves are 2mm larger. The published HP numbers went up by 1. Not even noticeable in the real world and definitely not worth seeking out unless you need to replace your heads anyway. And in any case a good machine shop could enlarge the valves on 80-82 heads to match or make any of the heads larger even than the 83+ heads. GD

Head gaskets are GASKETS. They SEAL things from mixing. A head gasket failure can result in ANY of the following mixing in ANY combination: 1. Atmosphere. IE: air from outside the engine. 2. Exhaust gasses. 3. Oil. 4. Coolant. Subaru engines in particular like to mix exhaust gasses and coolant. Compression tests are basically useless. They will tell you nothing on a Subaru HG failure. The OP probably needs a new radiator. Water pumps, thermostats, and other bits that are commonly blamed for cooling system misbehavior are extremely unlikely to be the culprit on a Subaru. GD

Phase-II engines don't overheat unless run low on coolant. They leak externally - they don't push exhaust into the coolant. The stop leak is Subaru coolant conditioner which is probably keeping the drivers side head gasket from dumping coolant on the ground. At 107k its not a matter of if but rather when it will need them replaced. The answer is to use the EJ255/257 turbo head gasket - these don't exhibit the leaking symptoms. GD

Overheating breaks down the oil. This causes rod bearing damage. The bearings in the 25D are 4mm smaller diameter than the 2.2 and second gen 2.5 and are prone to failure from being too small. The 25D is just a big pile of problems and expensive maintenance and repair issues. It's not a great idea to go in for a full rebuild having never split a Subaru block before. It will end badly. Get a 2.2 for it. Why is it necessary to get one locally? There are plenty of suppliers that will ship it to your door. I have engines delivered to me all the time. We don't say these things to hear ourselves talk. I've done full rebuilds on 25D's, HG jobs, and many, MANY 2.2 swaps. I own and operate a Subaru repair and performance shop and I have plenty of experience rebuilding these - I still don't usually bother. The 2.2 is better in so many ways and can be had for only slightly more than a proper HG job on a 25D. GD

It's probably just gauge inaccuracy. Remember the number you get doesn't matter - it's the difference between them that indicates engine condition. 190 to 195 is normal for most gauges at sea level on a Subaru engine tested cold and dry. His gauge is probably just cheap and a wet test will throw the numbers up higher than 195 pretty easily. Especially if he really pumped the oil into the cylinders - that takes up space and increases the compression. His dry tests are normal if not a tad low. Compression numbers don't control oil consumption. They indicate a problem with compression rings (rings 1 and 2). Oil control is the sole job of the #3 ring and you can still have excellent compression with totally clogged up oil control rings due to poor oil change history and cheap oil. GD

Change the PCV valve and insure all the hoses and ports are clean. If the problem is oil control rings (poor oil change history and not using synthetic) then there's really nothing you can do short of pulling the pistons, bead blasting the carbon from the ring grooves and putting them back in with new rings - do not hone it as that will just create another oil consumption issue. Oil control ring issues will not show up on compression tests or leak down tests. GD

2 gallons is more than the system capacity. Should be a bit more than 1.5 Fill with the bleeder screw on the top, passenger side of the radiator removed. Once coolant comes out of that hole plug it and continue filling. That should be all that's required. Or get a Uview AirLift: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IHK1VI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002SRH5G&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00C1ZXDD1BE6BCKMWH7G The EJ25D is VERY prone to HG failure. When they fail no amount of bleeding will help. They push combustion gasses into the cooling system and displace the coolant - causing the pump to cavitate. Compression testing these failures shows nothing. It sounds a lot like you have a blown HG on your hands. GD

On the one hand you wouldn't see that in an engine run with synthetic. But on the other hand what you have there is not unusual. I don't like to see it but as mentioned it's present in 99% of the vehicles on the road that aren't using exclusively synthetic oils. It's inevitable but really says nothing about the mechanical condition. It's just oil varnish and it's one of the main points in favor of synthetics. They have a MUCH higher tolerance for heat and will not leave this behind. GD

Might have to break it. Pry and turn at the same time usually works for me. GD