GeneralDisorder

No gain to be had here. Don't waste any more of your money. Intake modifications will only result in potential for ingesting water into the engine when you hit a puddle. It's a 90 HP 1.8 - there is really nothing worthwhile to be done here. GD

Pitch it. You don't need it. I remove them from all my Weber swaps in addition to blocking the coolant port under the carb. Pull the nipple from the manifold, drill and tap the hole for a set screw. GD

Radiator. GD

US 2.2 automatic models had EGR from '95 to '98. You can drill and tap the EGR port in the head - 16mm x 1.5. The EGR tube itself is the same between 2.2 and 2.5, and then you just need a 2.2 manifold w/EGR. By this method you can run any 2.2 long block from 90 to 98 without any check engine lights. I've done somewhere in the neighborhood of 25 or 30 swaps and I've never had a CEL that couldn't be solved. One thing you run into from time to time is a CEL generated due to incorrect EVAP purge flow. Usually when going from an older 2.5 to a newer 2.2 or vice-versa. The key here is that the purge system must match what the ECU is expecting and the MAP sensor solenoid vent must be plumbed for what the ECU wants - which is either a dump straight to atmosphere with a cap on the vent port or it has to be tee'd back into the purge line between the purge solenoid and the manifold. The ECU actually looks for a change in MAP sensor readings when it operates the purge solenoid on some ECU's and if you don't plumb this correctly you will pull your hair out chasing the P0441 "purge system incorrect flow" code. GD

You need a manual ECU. They don't care about AWD/2WD. GD

You're wrong. There. I let you know. Seriously? I posted in this thread already and noted exactly what will work. I do this 5 days a week.... GD

I stock these for "off road and racing purposes" :cool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-oxygen-sensor-angled-extender-spacer-90-degree-02-bung-extension-M18-X-1-5-/140839240076?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item20caac418c&vxp=mtr They work better, fit better, and no drilling involved. Much easier for me. GD

No downside per-se - the plumbing may be slightly different but it's nothing you couldn't work out. The throttle base can be re-bushed by any good carb shop or look online for a reamer and bushing kit for (IIRC) an 8mm throttle shaft.... Better yet - learn to be your own machinist. Parts and tools: Here's the bushings: MSC# 06453302 First stage reamer: http://drillsandcutters.com/PIL.326X.312reamers_piloted_ss.aspx Second stage reamer: http://drillsandcutters.com/PIL.375X.326reamers_piloted_ss.aspx Then tap in your $0.95 bushings. Done and done. GD

You can get the car through smog in CA with SPFI - though if you can't re-bush the throttle shafts on the carb you probably won't be able to install the SPFI correctly and get it ref'd. GD

You don't run a shop and you aren't the one that looks like an a$$ if your customer has a failure shortly after a belt job. Do what you like and be stranded by a $25 idler failure if you choose but don't tell people to fall on their sword based on your unbelievably limited data set of two whole cars. Just stop - you are making my dog look smart right now. GD

Agreed. GD

I use the sane funnel pictured above and fill with the bleeder plug removed - install bleeder when coolant reaches the plug hole then finish topping off and install radiator cap. I have never required any further bleeding or running with funnel installed, etc. GD

Battery hooked up backwards? GD

There are several pump sizes and quite an assortment of rebuild kits (about $35 at the dealer) for all of them. Generally if you keep pump and bracket together you can swap at will. GD

Very poorly at realistic freeway speeds. It will do it but its not like you will be passing anyone easily. Mountain passes will be scary. Mileage goes straight in the crapper cause you are WOT at all times just to get moving and stay that way. GD

I have an OTC slide hammer set that includes a hub puller - great for both pushing axles out as well as the slide hammer can be used to remove the hub when doing bearings: http://www.amazon.com/4579-9-Way-Slide-Hammer-Puller/dp/B0015DMNIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1348445304&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+4579 GD

The '90 manual trans IAC's were junk. You can try to find a used match but it will most likely be just as bad if you can find one at all. Only good fix for these is to update the computer and the IAC to a '92 - '94 units. Along with the injectors as those were also troublesome.... or perhaps buy a new IAC from the dealer but that will probably be more than the car is worth. GD

He *thinks* its bad?!? Well... I *think* he needs to hang up his wrenches. It's a 30 second test to check the "Evap Purge Solenoid" for proper operation. There is no such device as an "intake solenoid". If he took several hours to determine this piece of wisdom then he's an idiot or incompetent or both. Test. Verify. *then* replace. He doesn't sound very confident - as I said in the beginning - find an expert. Your mechanic is a hack. GD

30 minutes to pull an OBD-II harness..... About 3 hours to pull an OBD-I. Also a LOT more work to strip and prep one. Add the ability to interface with the ECU easily... OBD-II wins every time. GD

The sad truth and what you need to explain to the customer is that this is a 1980's computer driven carb for which parts, service information, and proper tools are limited and VERY expensive. None of us want to work on those and no carb shop or service shop that has the capability would do so for a reasonable fee. I recently did a Weber swap on a carter BBD equipped '89 Jeep. The customer was quoted between $3,000 and $4,000 to repair the carb and associated systems - either by installing the Chrysler fuel injection kit or by repairing the aging carter feedback carb. I did a Weber swap and got it through emissions for her for much less than $1,000. She is very happy with both how it runs, the fuel economy, and the price. If your customer doesn't want to hear the truth then they should cease to ask scary questions. I really don't feel much guilt telling people how much work they are asking me to do with research, equipment purchases that I will rarely if ever use again, and time spent on forums trying to figure out a problem that has already been solved with a simple Weber swap. Just because they *think* they don't like the solution that's accepted by the whole community doesn't mean we have to suffer. GD

Strut angle to the body doesn't change no matter how much or how little lift you do. It's geometry and if you have a hard time with that please don't be building lifts and driving on the same roads as the rest of us. GD

Install your own lift. It's easy. I have a mid-rise "pit" lift in my garage at home and it was ~$2500 to the fed-ex dock. My two-post asymmetric at my shop was $1800 to the dock. Took me and couple friends half a day to install. Rent or borrow a roto-hammer and 3/4" bit. That's all you need. Don't buy a bender. It costs very little to have tubing mandrel bent and for cages you want as few bends as possible and as little crush as possible. For *REAL* cages that will be inspected and raced anything less than a true mandrel bender will not bend with sufficiently high crush ratio. The cage I'm working on now has 6 bends total. I have the tubing bent by the same guy I buy it from and it runs me about $25 per bend. Not worth the investment in a mid-range machine that's going to take up a ton of space and do a crappy job. For welders - you can't have a large enough unit. A Miller or Thermal-Arc in the 250 range is a perfect all-around size for a shop large enough for a lift. Any smaller and they are cheaply made and don't come as their own rolling cabinets. Consider what you are buying carefully - things with wheels are a tremendous bonus. GD

Very nice! So I'm assuming the aluminium bit that's in a proto-type looking stage in your pictures will be one of your famous castings and then you will provide the shafts that exit it to interface the u-joints with? I can see an application for this setup on both street and off-road applications and many different generations of Subaru's.... what (if any) model of shifter were you planning to have this interface with? Or are you going to provide the basics and we just buy tubing to build the length rods we need? Also - what about vertical support for longer shafts? I'm not seeing how to anchor it to the body if you had say... 14" of shaft before the shifter... Subaru uses a body mount at the back of their shifters to give them support. GD

None of the clutch cables are discontinued through Subaru. I have bought all generations of them - all the way back to a '78 that I bought recently. Aftermarket is NOT acceptable for clutch cables. They are junk and will break in short order. GD