GeneralDisorder

Filter box not being hooked up should not cause it to die like that. You may have a bad MAF. GD

That switch will not carry the solenoid current and is likely going to have a proprietary connection and mounting setup such that it will be very difficult to use it. To actually replace the ignition switch you will need one or two toggle switches and a momentary push button - the toggle switches turn on and off the power to the ignition and accessory circuits and the push button will crank and engine. There is really no good reason to do this though since a replacement ignition switch from the dealer is only about $15 and you can have the lock cylinder rebuilt by any good smith for very little. GD

It's not really that difficult. Get the Harbor Freight wheel bearing adaptor set and use it to do the bearings on the car. I did several dozen bearings with that $80 set before I stepped up to a Hub Tamer. GD

Computer won't care a bit about the missing cat. The Baja turbo will be a TD04 or TD05 or possibly a VF of some flavor....and is actually quite a bit larger than the '91 turbo - which is a VF11. They have radically different inlets so you will need a solution to get filtered, metered air into the turbo. You will have engine management issues for sure. It won't like how much air that turbo will flow and it will likely hit fuel cut due to the air volume passing the MAF. A stand-alone would be best since the OBD-I ECU is pretty dumb and will do really stupid things when you change up the airflow design. The intercooler will hit the AC hose and the clutch MC reservoir. GD

My initial reaction is that it is possibly just a completely wasted clutch. I hear what appears to be the "clutch trash" being blendered up by the hub and springs of the destroyed disc. Of course that just means we are replacing the clutch which we knew anyhow. A proper examination of the transmission is needed to pass judgement on it's viability since it can't be driven. We shall see and I'll hold off actual diagnosis till I get it apart but that's my 5 minute examination. GD

You fried the ECU. That's a known side effect of a backward battery connection. GD

She's against having a repaired engine? What kind of logic is that? LOL. You got offered new HG's on the dealership's dime - you just passed up THE deal of millennium. At 61k you have about 40k till the gaskets start leaking. This is not a percentage deal - it WILL happen. I absolutely guarantee it. Wow. Epic, mega fail. GD

You need: EJ22 cam and crank sprockets. EJ22 manifold. EJ22 ECU EJ25 long block. The 2.2 ECU needs the proper cam and crank triggers to run. You need the 2.2's intake to match the car. Just use the 2.5 long block minus the timing sprockets and it will work without a problem. You will never easily rid yourself of codes since you are trying to use an automatic ECU. Don't do that. GD

I pay about $36 each from my local dealer. GD

Any year. They are all the same for USDM. GD

Clutch types are rated in break-away torque not in power split and they can be "tuned" to be as hard or as gentle as you like. There is no rule governing all clutch types in that way. Viscous diffs are tuned differently and are used for a different purpose. They are primarily for spirited street driving and maybe driving in the snow, etc. They aren't for crawling around in the woods as they would never get hot enough to be of any real advantage in that scenario. They have to heat up to work - that means working them hard such as auto-cross and snow/ice driving at speeds greater than 15 mph. GD

Actually the center viscous coupler doesn't transfer power at all. It resists the action of the center diff that allows the front and rear to turn at different speeds. The more they differ the stronger the VC resists - heat energy changes the fluid in the VC to solid and at some critical point the center diff ceases to differentiate at all. So that if you have a single front wheel that's spinning it will cause the VC to heat up, eventually lock, and stop the center diff from allowing power to flow to only that wheel - causing one or both rear wheels to slowly accelerate to the same speed as the front wheel that has lost traction. It's not a transferring of power but rather a power splitting device that works based on demand. GD

JUNK. Aren't you listening to us? Get the EJ255/EJ257 HG's from the DEALER. You DO NOT need head bolts. They are not a wear item and NEVER replaced. Subaru does not recommend replacement unless damaged. GD

Looks like 46 comes with 41 but you should also replace 4, 5, and 26 while you are in there. And get a new 46 if you get a used diff. Often they are all damaged but 46 goes first. GD

You can only buy the entire center diff assembly for about $450 from Subaru. You should also buy all four of the bearings - especially the front support bearing for the diff - that go in the rear extension housing. The support bearings for the diff and transfer gears/shafts are prone to failure in those years so be prepared to do all the bearings along with the diff. Sadly this is common enough that used parts are not really a good option - you would likely have to buy a whole transmission and it will almost certainly need the same bearings. GD

It comes out as a unit typically - you shouldn't have to remove them separately. GD

They don't usually go that quick but it's obviously been driven very hard to burn through a factory clutch in 75k. Once they hit the rivets they start to slip under load - the rivets are not that thick and if you burn the heads off a few of them the clutch material will catastrophically disintegrate. This slippage the sign to stop driving them. It sounds like you have some fair distances in your area and that he's driving regularly. When my '91 SS started to slip in that way I shelved it except for emergency use and when I got in there to replace the clutch it had a nice groove on the flywheel where the rivets were located. Given the low mileage and the rapid failure I would question his clutch usage patterns if he has been the only owner of the car. If he got it used then it could just be a case of the previous owner not knowing how to use a clutch. A lot of women will slip them far too much and cause rapid failure. Bought an '08 WRX not long ago with 85k and the clutch had been done at 75k by the local dealer. Young woman owned it. Beat the hell out of the car - probably spooled the turbo before completely releasing the clutch. GD

Just wait till you do this with the Legacy! I'm coming to get it in a day or two. Clutch kit is on the way and transmission is lined up. GD

Drill bits are very hard and can shatter when impacted by a hammer blow. I once had a peice of drill bit embed itself in my hand from such an incorrect use of a tool. GD

Garbage. No one here would use those HG's and the rest isn't worth $70. Get your gaskets at the dealer and for the SOHC 2.5 use the DOHC Turbo 2.5 gasket as they do not leak oil. GD

Most people use a long punch designed for axle roll pins or you can use a socket extension and put the end of the punch in the female end of it...... I never drop exhaust to get at the pins. GD

Cable is stretched and frayed - replace it and properly adjust. GD

The original Subaru gaskets are made from a quality, coated gasket paper. That said I still use 518 for most places subaru used paper on the EA's. GD

Disc should be 225mm. Pressure plate should match with a stepped back flange. EJ and EA diameters should be very close. GD

You can't without changing to an entire 87+ engine harness and ECU. Your ECU doesn't understand the sensor output of a hot-wire MAF. GD