GeneralDisorder

Watch live data on a scan tool and see if you get an RPM readout when cranking. GD

Go back and re-read my post and follow the instructions. Troubleshooting with Visa will not produce the desired outcome. GD

The noise under the car is normal - that's the duty solenoid in the transmission responding to your gear selection. Back to basics - fuel, spark, compression. GD

You can run the EJ22 with the standalone and I have MANY arguments in favor of doing just that. We do it all the time - in fact we do it EVERY time we do a swap. #1 reason - get rid of the stupid (and expensive) MAF sensor. Makes plumbing a lot easier. And no codes for junk the stock ECU can't have in it's new chassis. GD

Have you checked for a vacuum leak? The most common cause of an incorrect idle on a MAF car is a vacuum leak - air gets in through an alternate path, doesn't register on the MAF, and thus fuel is not calculated for the actual amount of air - causing a lean condition that is unable to sustain idle. Also could be the idle air control valve isn't working properly but if it idles at 2k with the MAF unplugged I would say that's less likely at least. 2k idle there is enough airflow that a small vacuum leak would not contribute a significant percentage and would not make a big difference in MAF voltage. These SPFI systems are fairly reliable - make sure you have addressed the obvious stuff like cap/rotor/plugs/wires, ignition timing, vacuum leaks, etc. You can chase tail for a long time if that stuff isn't working properly. If you had the equipment to actually read live data from the ECU you could look at MAF grams per second, but as that's not likely to happen you will have to resort to "reading tea leaves" on this one. You could graph the MAF sensor voltages at various RPM and see if there's a large non-linearity at the low end of the range. They should respond fairly linearly from 0.5v to about 4.5v. The scaling in the ECU for grams-per-second vs. voltage is unknown though so it would be hard to determine if the voltage at idle is actually around the proper range. But most engines are around 1 to 1.2v at idle...... not a hard rule but typical. GD

Like I said - adjust the cable and (if it's been messed with) the throttle stop. If that doesn't do it then just rig up a momentary switch on a bracket for the idle switch and re-route the wires. GD

Why are you replacing it? These usually don't fail till well past 300k miles. You seem to be replacing parts at a tremendous rate here and I suspect you are either troublshooting with Visa and are just loading up the parts cannon, or somehow think that replacing the factory parts with aftermarket sh!t will magically make it run better or be more reliable - which it most definitely won't. So what they he!l are you doing here friend? The idle switch in the sensor may need you to adjust the cable or throttle stop (though don't change it if it's factory set still) to get continuity. That is unlikely to have failed. GD

Transmission is DONE. Stick a fork in it. Replace with good used and maintain it this time. GD

You'll only hit a cooling jacket on the pre-1995 EJ22E heads. You CANNOT drill those heads for EGR - they look like you can but trust me you can't. GD

It probably exists but it's obscure and is probably used (as Numbchux alluded) along side the 5EAT. I know the 5EAT Legacy GT's were 3.27's so an even taller gear with the 3.0 / 5EAT combo seems reasonable. GD

I would trust used factory over anything from any parts store. MAF sensors are HIGHLY calibrated sensors and in virtually every case I've seen of aftermarket replacement sensors for older vehicles they are scaled incorrectly resulting in poor operation and huge fuel trims. OEM Subaru new or used only in this case. GD

My first hand experience (besides owning an in-ground AWD DynoJet and a Subaru tuning shop where I employ one of the most experienced Subaru tuners in the business - seriously he has the 3rd COBB Pro-Tuner license ever issued back in 2003) is personally building a megasquirt from a bare circuit board and having nothing but problems with that garbage. You want mine? It's collecting dust in a box along with a completely custom crank and cam trigger simulator you can run with a cordless drill for the EJ..... And as far as piggyback controllers - all those do is attempt to "trick" the ECU into giving more fuel or changing timing, etc - which is never a good idea since you are meddling with a closed source system for which you can never be sure of the unintended consequences. And "fine tuning" an EA82T is an exercise in blowing them up. They were unreliable heaps of trash as they came stock (besides being under-powered) and you'll fail at accomplishing anything worth the expenditure on the equipment to do so - just as hundreds of people who have come before you have failed. They are a GIANT waste of effort. But if you insist at least get something you can use on an EJ when your stubbornness gives way to reality and you finally hear my words of wisdom and experience. GD

I don't center punch them but you can if you like. Centering the through hole isn't critical though I have done lots of drilling to remove broken fasteners over the years and have a keen eye for center. GD

Yes they should be the same mounting points as well. GD

We do have a plug and play harness adapter for the 25D harness..... it's $350 and runs the stock harness to a LINK Monsoon with no harness modifications. We also have base maps that will run the engine out of the box and be easily tuned by any shop with the skills and a dyno. GD

6 bolts, and 2 nuts on the bell housing. We just use two the bell-housing bolts and the bottom nuts for engine stands. GD

Exhaust should be essentially the same from 00 to 04. EGR has nothing to do with the exhaust system itself since the EGR draws from the cylinder head not the manifold. GD

With the LINK you can use any CTS you want. Such as widely available GM sensors that are like $10-$20. GD

If you know someone with a shop they can just title lien it if your state allows that. Much easier process. Here in Oregon it's $75, wait 30 days and then I can do whatever I want with it. Have had several cars abandoned at my shop. GD

Make sure the vacuum lines for the MAP sensor and MAP sensor switching solenoid are EXACTLY as indicated on the under-hood sticker. If I were you I would run this with a standalone such as the LINK Monsoon. While it may run with an NA ECU it's definitely not ideal. The Forester ECU doesn't understand positive manifold pressure and in fact it's probably blind to it. The stock map sensor is probably a 1.15 bar, etc. GD

Cut, crimp and tack weld the steel EGR pipe close to the head. Takes about two minutes to seal it off. GD

Stock ECU is junk. Don't try to *manipulate* it's digits with some piggy back box. That's just junk being assimilated by more junk. And MegaGarbage is also junk. It's old now and they never work the way you think (hope) they will. The LINK ECU's have the EA82 optical trigger programmed into them (since it's identical to the Nissan 360 Optical pattern). They will easily run the EA82T and then later an EJ when you bag up that hot garbage and send it to make beer cans like you should have already done. GD

No clue on the squeak, but put the stock intake back on. Unless you have the car professionally tuned for the (now sure to be) different MAF scaling caused by you altering airflow through the sensor with an intake that does nothing other than allow you to hear a sucking noise and "think" you "feel" more power (you don't - it's in your head), all you will do is wreck the fuel trims, drivability, and fuel economy by causing the computer to try to learn around the sewer pipe you replaced your highly engineered intake with. GD

You don't need the harness or ECU from the donor chassis. You just need the manifold harness. For a LINK Monsoon you just buy the short "A" harness, and wire it up to the manifold harness. Yes there is wire splicing but only to what you actually need, not a bunch of a crap you don't need. And with the LINK you can throw away the MAF, and replace any other sensors with.... anything you want. About the only thing you have to keep is the crank and cam sensors. Anything else can be swapped with other years, models, or even from an entirely different make and model unrelated to Subaru. GD

The only difficult part for most people is the electrical. And to make that "easy" isn't all that cheap. We do a lot of swaps to VW's, older Subaru's, and wiring of sand rails, etc. The LINK Engine Management products (https://linkecu.com/) are our preference for how easy they are to install/wire, and tune. But expect that to come with a price - about $1,750 to $2,000 for the hardware if you want to do it yourself, and about $3k if you want a shop such as ours to do it. But it is by far the easiest way to go. The stock ECU's from that era suck and with the LINK you get speed density (delete the MAF and all the plumbing), and full motorsports features, etc. GD