GeneralDisorder

The number you give is almost certainly a "Rhino-pac" rebranding of the Exedy 15009 kit which is a rebranding of the OEM Daikin kit. By all listings that is supposed to fit the XT6. Everywhere you turn the feeling I get is that this kit has been discontinued. It may be that you have a mis-boxed kit or one part is wrong in it, etc. EA82/ER27 and EJ use the same throw out, pilot, and sometimes a very similar disc for 4WD/AWD non-turbo applications. The EA plate is stepped while the EJ plate is not. GD

A lot simpler to just get one of these: http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/13752ho.html GD

Wrong set of connectors. Those are engine diagnostic plugs. The auxiliary systems diagnostic plug and ground pin wires are all black. The two ground pin wires are wrapped up in the harness with electrical tape and may need to be cut loose. You're in the right area though. GD

No you can't. Check the pan for metal and sludge. Check for varnish under the valve covers. If its clean then run it. If its not then THROW THE WHOLE BLOCK AWAY. It is not economically viable to rebuild an EJ22. I can get ~50k import engines from Japan for under $1200 shipped to my door. Cost to rebuild one is that much in parts and quality machine work and the results are typically questionable if you haven't got a lot of experience and/or a qualified machine shop that has done many of them. GD

Subaru's don't need turbo timers. The coolant circulates via convection after the engine shuts down - that's the point of the upper water tank - to keep the coolant level above the turbo so convection will occur. Timers are to run the engine and cool the turbo before shutdown to prevent the oil from overheating inside the turbo. Subaru's also drain all the oil out of the turbo due to their high mounting location. So it's really pretty much useless on a Subaru and makes you look silly to anyone that knows the cars. GD

Manual transmissions often have a smaller starter "hole" and require a different c-face dimensioned starter to bolt up. Manual starters will fit automatic's but not the other way around. This is the case through the mid-90's but it may not have stayed that way into the 2000's. GD

You don't need a gasket at all. Loctite 518 or Permatex anaerobic will do the job without the need for a gasket. If you use a gasket get the OEM neoprene over metal. They work. Cardboard/paper is garbage and will eventually fail. GD

I recently came across another "92" with a '91 wheel without airbag. So apparently the driver's side airbags were not implemented till sometime after the first 92's were being rolled off the line. GD

90-94 don't fit EA82's well. They are too wide and the cat area hits the frame and cross member. 95+ headers work great. GD

Personally I use the grease packed with the bearings and I have never had a single repeat failure. I am extremely attentive to cleanliness and I have quite a bit of training with regards to bearings. One thing that no one ever listens about is how *little* grease you should actually be using. 30% of the cavity should be filled. With the grease that's packed with the bearings that's about what you will have once it flows out to the seals. Seal surfaces are another area no one pays attention to. They need to be very clean with no signs of a lip groove. Few are in good enough shape to run 100k in a harsh environment once the first failure has already occurred. GD

Bolt a 12mm box wrench to the pressure plate mounting hole and jam the open end against the lower bell-housing stud to hold it from turning while torquing the flywheel bolts. You will have to remove the down-pipe to get clearance to remove the transmission but that should be it. You should have a new turbo to downpipe gasket and new studs/nuts/bolts as they like the rust and sometimes gall coming off leading to breakage. Otherwise its a straightforward job. On non-turbos its a lot simpler to pull the engine for a clutch IMO. But whatever you like doing most. I don't like wrestling the tranny over my head. Doesn't seem to work well on a Subaru regardless of how high you have it. GD

It is not a pull-type on your car. They did away with that on the layer model turbo 5MT's. Why do you need to hold the crank from turning? With turbo cars its generally easier to pull the tranny for a clutch. To pull the engine you just unbolt the down-pipe. Everything else stays attached to the engine. In some ways its easier than a non turbo. You probably will break some of the turbo downpipe bolts/studs. GD

You don't. Subaru wheel bearings are sealed and are greased for life. There is no provision for adding or repacking. They typically last 200k+ so don't worry about it. If your mechanic is charging for this he's s crook. GD

You will lose the tranny fluid immediately without the drive-shaft. As in it will flow out on the ground in the first 10 feet. You can install the front slip yoke of a disassembled shaft into the tranny and secure it with zip-ties. GD

The OBX unequal length headers fit nicely. As does any of the stock '95+ headers that use the "J-pipe" style cat section. Best if you get a header and catless J pipe as a set. GD

Unlikely to be related to fuel pressure. The pumps on these rarely fail. GD

1. Remember that no play can be felt with the parking brake engaged. It's on the front wheels and locks the rotor/hub/axle to the knuckle and no bearing or cone washer play can be isolated. 2. The cone washer under the axle nut is often disregarded by shops that don't know better. They are often damaged during removal and not installed correctly leading to wear, looseness, and noise. Check for play with the parking brake off and then check the condition of the cone washer, hub mating surface, hub splines, axle splines, and the potion of the axle gripped by the shaft-locking cone washer. GD

Any auto parts store should be able to order u-joints. They are common and easily replaced. GD

No. Totally different. GD

Yeah it will probably be pretty reasonable. I have some tricks up my sleeve for just such occasions. I've worked with and owned the feedback equipped EA81's before and I can likely lean it out enough to get it through till you can afford a Weber upgrade. I have a friend in your area with a trailer that I could probably have pick it up and bring it here for a small fee. Since he lives in Bridal Veil a bit farther down I-84 it won't be much out of his way as he comes to my shop regularly. GD

If the turbo is good then it will build at least about 6 psi because that much is needed to open the wastegate. If it doesn't build 6 psi then there are exhaust leaks before the turbo, clogged up exhaust (bad cat's), or the turbo is bad. It sounds a lot like what I've experienced with bad catalytic converters. GD

All marks at 12-noon. Belt marks are meaningless once rotated. Don't use belt marks. Count teeth if you must but you shouldn't need to. GD

Bring it down to my shop in Milwaukie and ill get you through DEQ no problem. Superior Soobie and Import 17843 SE McLoughlin Blvd. Milwaukie, OR 97267 5O3-88O-4O84 GD

The duty-c is easy to replace. You just pull off the extension housing, drop in a new solenoid ($120) and put it back together. Takes about two to three hours. I typically charge $180 labor plus the part. Probably won't ever fail. People drive around with bad duty-c's for a decade with few ill-effects. GD

Under the dash - above the fuse panel. GD