GeneralDisorder

Troubleshooting with Visa isn't the answer. Test, verify, then replace. Check for power at the fuel pump connector while cranking..... GD

I use the supplied nuts. The color is just what type of coating they have. The gold is zinc plating for corrosion resistance. Strength should not be affected by what coating is being used. GD

http://www.subaruonlineparts.com http://www.subarupartsforyou.com http://www.1stsubaruparts.com All easily found with a google search for "online subaru parts" GD

I have had zero returns or complaints about them actually. I've probably installed between 50 and 100 of them. One thing I've seen on a couple occasions (not just with Subaru) is that they tend to have engineered away or forgotten the inner joint cup retaining device (wire ring, or riveted plate). So that the inner joint is held on by only the boot. If you give them a tug the joint comes apart.... this happens mostly on FWD vehicles where the axle is retained by a snap ring on the inside of the transmission. Not all of their Subaru axles have this problem but I've experienced at least a couple that did. I've had some similar axles that are branded as OP-Parts (but I'm told made from the same components made in the same factory in China) that are also good but I did have a pair that didn't hold up to a suspension lifted Forester with 2.5" strut spacers. Can't say I blame them for this though. That was a ridiculously difficult axle to get installed and they didn't last long at those severe angles. GD

You should bring this thing down to my shop in Milwaukie. It sounds like you may not know exactly what you have and knowledge is power - even if you don't need me to do anything to the car just this minute you should know what you have and how it was put together. Otherwise you very possibly could be sitting on a ticking bomb. You know that the fuel pump doesn't receive power unless the engine is running or you are cranking it with the starter right? So checking for power with the key in the ON position will show nothing because the pump does not run in that scenario..... GD

I get EMPI's for $49.95 from my supplier. Crap parts-house remans can't be much cheaper than that. GD

Get used to it or leave. I'll do it every time. Can't have you mis-informing people that need to accurately diagnose and repair their car. This forum is a tool and you are putting out useless and misleading information. If you don't like the way I treat you here then stop being that guy and stop posting useless information. Read more, talk less. GD

Yes we need to go through it again. You are not helping people - your input is often wrong and uninformed. You are not stating opinion. You are misleading the OP by telling him in no uncertain terms that his y-pipe is not original and his car should not have an O2 sensor. This is WRONG. It is not an opinion. It is FACT. You haven't the experience or knowledge to be commenting on this. You have worked on a few 84's perhaps... I've worked on hundereds. If you don't know and have never seen it then pipe down. GD

You really need to stop commenting on things you have no clue about. Your posts are uninformed and often misleading. Please refrain from speculation when you haven't the proper knowledge or experience to KNOW what you are talking about. GD

Your mechanic is absolutely right and your friend has no idea what he's talking about. Water pumps fail by leaking or by seizure. They do not cause overheating without other obvious signs of failure. GD

Might be a replacement used y-pipe that has an O2 not used by the car. Check for an ECU under the steering column. Could be a feedback computer carb. They put those in quite a few '82 to '86s. If you want to pass - get the gas tank down to about 4-5 gallons and put in two gallons of denatured alcohol. It will pass. GD

It's head gaskets. If the shop has to do a "gas test" to determine this then they don't know this engine well enough to be doing HG's on it. They will not do the job right. I have seen this repair screwed up so many times its embarrassing to the mechanic community. Subaru's are not like other cars in too many ways for a generic shop to effectively perform a significant and expensive repair such as this. Seek an expert. GD

3rd and 4th are a pair that have to be replaced together. Both drive and driven. There will have been a TON of metal that has gone into everything - figure on replacing every major bearing, all the syncro's, and reshimming the ring and pinion. There will be at least $600 in parts above and beyond the gears. You will need a press with a wide enough through-hole in the bed to pass the driven gear for 1st. You will need an accurate dial indicator and a good solid method of attaching it to set the ring and pinion lash and setting the contact of the teeth involves "reading" the Prussian blue or white/red lead contact patches.... If you aren't a mechanic and you don't have the tools or skills to attempt this I wouldn't do it at all. The first one I did was for a friend and went into a race vehicle where longevity was a bonus not a requirement. I have done more of them since and have learned something each time. If you want a reliable transmission then your best bet is a used one. It will be cheaper and with your inexperience it will probably last longer. GD

Regardless of what your dealer says the parts are availible. The springs run about $60 each on the front from Subaru. Call a dealer that doesn't employ morons. GD

I can see how a normal book rate shop would charge that. I just don't feel it's warranted. For Subaru work I don't typically use any book rate scale. I charge based on how long it takes me to do the job at hand. Being I've done many wheel bearings I typically charge 1.5 hours labor plus parts which I don't put a lot of markup on. One thing to note is that in most of the US you are dealing with a lot more rust than I am here. Most cars here come apart on demand. In fact it's common practice around here to charge additional labor if a car comes in that is a major tetanus hazard. We don't expect it and to some extent are not as well equipped to handle it as the rust belt shops are. Yes I do end up working a lot harder to make ends meet this way - typically 12 to 14 hours a day - but I'm fair and honest and that keeps people coming back and bringing their friends. My shop is way past full and I'm looking at hiring a full time assistant.... so my price are bringing me lots and lots of jobs when a lot of shops are empty with some kid shaking a sign on the corner.:-p GD

Replace the O2's. Probably both just have bad heaters. It happens. The EGR flow code is likely the BPV - Back Pressure Transducer Valve. It's that thing on the driver's side rear of the manifold above the EGR with all the hoses going into it. Frayed wire for the ECU probably isn't. You are most likely seeing strands of the wire shielding. It's shielded wire to prevent signal interferance. No code and the engine runs which would not be the case if there was a problem with the cam sensor signal wire. Outlet plug is a block heater or battery blanket. No clue on your lights. Probably some idiot installed HID's or some other such nonsense. Pictures might help or might not. GD

Replace the tensioner and the belt. Frankenmotors are seriously interference and if it breaks or jumps time the whole thing will be trashed. GD

Yes - timing belt is a possibility as well. Also the screw that keeps the rotor from spinning.... though he claims to have replaced the rotor. GD

Can't use a code reader on pre-'95 Subaru's. You connect the white or black read memory connectors under the dash by the ECU or behind the driver's side strut tower. Codes are displayed as long and short flashes on the O2 monitor light on the side of the ECU. As for where I was... been working on Subaru's in Portland for 10 years now. Doing it proffesionally for three - owned my own shop since March.... Been on the board that whole time. Perhaps I didn't see your post. If I had access to the car I could likely have it running in a few minutes. GD

No. Much too large. Get springs from a yard or the dealer. GD

You can't test the module that way on the SPFI cars (such as the '88 in question) as they use an external ignitor (ignition amp) that's triggered by the ECU. It is not in the distributor - the distributor is a crank angle sensor and that's it. If you don't have spark at the coil tower (forget about the cap/rotor/wires/plugs for now) then either the coil is bad, the igintion amp is bad, the coil bracket is not properly grounded, you have no power to the coil/amp or the ECU is faulty or not powered/grounded properly. Start by pulling codes - the ECU is self-diagnostic and can point you in a general direction which can easily save many hours of troubleshooting. GD

You need new front axles. You DO NOT need diff carrier bearings. You *might* need a new center diff. But that would have to be checked by a knowledgable mechanic. GD

It's a bad idea for engine longevity to remove, reroute or redesign the PCV system. It removes harmful blow-by gasses that will foul your oil. The popular valve cover breather filters are for race and off-road vehicles that change their oil every hundred miles or less. Under those usage conditions there is not enough oil fouling taking place to matter. If you plan to leave the oil in for 3,000 miles then you better have a working PCV system. There are no hoses on the (very simple) EJ hose system that can or should be eliminated. GD

Poor ignition components. Coil, module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Test - then replace. GD

Yep. And you get a used bearing with no warranty. For $150 I can install a new bearing, seals, and I guarantee my work. I also will not remove the knuckle and change your alignment. So you save $60 not having to align it (quality job). So for the average guy that has no tools or a place to work I'm much more cost effective than a junk yard. You could do a used knuckle and find a cut-rate alignment shop that will do a crappy job for $40 and guess what? You just got what you paid for...... a used knuckle that could fail next month, a crappy alignment done by untrained monkeys, and no piece of mind. All to save what? $35? That's not a very good return on your investment of time and money. GD