GeneralDisorder

Why are you wanting an intake in the first place? There is no performance to be gained here.... GD

Remove the BOV. They are silly and ignorant devices that only hurt performance. GD

No need to touch the ball joints or remove the knuckle. Remove the axle and do the bearings on the car. Ball joints are easy - pinch bolt on one side and tapered fit on control arm. Use a ball-joint/tie rod seperator to free them. This is all very routine stuff. A ball joint seperator is $15. But you don't actually need one. GD

Hard to tell - need pictures and more info on the 1.6. We didn't get the EA71 in the EA82 body like you did. No idea how they setup the accessories on that combo. GD

Oil the inner lip. That's it. GD

Very easy - drift punch and hammer is about all you need. There are several write-up's about doing these if you search the board here. GD

'99 is phase-II and is SEVERELY prone to HG oil leaks. Almost certainly the source based on those pictures. Time to do HG's. GD

You need a good independent body shop to fight on your behalf. If you were local I could hook you up with my guy... Call around. My body guy is a business neighbor of mine and he is ruthless. He will get twice what you can get on your own and he will make them pay quick. He charges $100 per day in storage fees till they settle for the car and pay you. That should not be a total anyway. The parts needed to fix that are readily available - I just bought a '96 OBW front clip for $85 delivered to my shop - which I used to graft in a lower core support for a fellow board member. The total bill was under $500 for that work. I could easily fix that for $1200 - which is far less than the car is worth. GD

No it will not fit. The Brat is 2nd gen, the 88 GL is third gen. You can have the tank epoxy lined by any good radiator shop. GD

Personally I like a drain/fill of the tranny every 30k. Good cheap insurance. And if it's my car I'm going to change the gear oils just to do a check for metal - when there's a warranty to consider I want samples of all fluids on a clean white fluid sample paper so I can visually check for metal and catch major component failures before they aren't going to pay for it. I recently changed an automatic transmission in an '04 OBS with 120k on it due to pinion shaft bearing failure. Completely full on fluid - just ate itself. Plugs can go 60k. Air filter and Cabin filter may want changed depending on driving conditions. GD

Of course - turbo clutch requires a hydro pedal assembly. GD

Easily. There is essentially no difference between any of the turbo 5mt transmissions from 89 to '04 or so. The 22T transmission has the same components as a JDM 276 HP EJ20 tranny of the same era and the turbo engines make a lot more torque than the EZ30 and there's tons of people making a lot more than an extra 49 HP on the 22T. It's not hard to get to 275 - many folks are at or over 300. Remember - the EZ30 is a station wagon engine...... You can't do stupid things like 4 wheel burn outs because they weren't designed for that. Otherwise they are quite strong. The early WRX transmissions got a bad rep because of how silly Americans drove them. Too much grip - you are supposed to use that to go, not to chew up tires. GD

No. There is no acceptable and safe alternative to pug alloy lug nuts. That's why they have been reproduced in the past. You need the real article for safe and correct fitment. GD

Buy all the gaskets associated with the oil cooler and filter adaptor. Common oil leak along with valve cover gaskets on your engine. GD

Float is stuck or needle/seat is jammed open.... or the fuel pressure has spiked up too high somehow. Unlikely with the stock pumps though. GD

Aluminium seperator plate through '93.5. Don't touch it. GD

Not with any parts that Subaru has ever made. The clutch can be stronger and the fork lower profile.... and with the pull type a cable would be a mess to implement. The failures you talk about are not seen on the turbo version. GD

In that case you need a turbo pull-type. Any of the 5MT pull-type transmissions will work. EJ205 cars, EJ22T cars, and many JDM variants. GD

No can do. Completely different. GD

85/86 have a smaller hub with fewer springs than '87+. GD

They didn't know what they were doing. The PCV is not correct that way and the dieseling can be brought under control easily if you know how to tune a carb. Timing advance can help - also need to properly adjust the fuel mixture and idle speed. If you ever get down to Portland drop by my shop and I can correct all that easily. GD

It's missing the retaining wire that goes into the groove just inside the cup.... unless that's not in the picture. That's probably why it came apart when it was pulled on. I've seen reman axles where they forgot to install the wire. If you don't have the wire I suppose just reassemble it and run it without. It won't come apart unless you disassemble the suspension to allow enough room for that to happen. GD

If you are using the 2.5 flywheel then get the 2.5 clutch. KSB04 is typically the one I order. Should work fine. GD

If it's setup for a larger turbo then you need to find out which one. You can't just slap a different one in and expect it to work with the cars tune. You need to get an exact replacement or have the car tuned for whichever one you settle on. That said - VF-39's are cheap these days. That's probably what I would look for. GD