GeneralDisorder

You need a new radiator. GD

Certainly seems like the relay is bad then. Possibly rusted/corroded inside. Cut it open and look. It's an informative experience to open a relay and see it's internals. Then it will be clear to you how that particular unit functions. GD

Compression test is a waste of time. Pulley comes loose, key and keyway are mangled or sheared, timing is affected, car won't start. Bring it to me. I'll take care of it for you. A compression tester isn't the tool you need - a welder and the skill to use it is. GD

What do you have at the yellow wires going into the ignition relay? GD

Time for a complete timing belt/WP job. The key has sheared off and the crank sprocket has slipped on the crank. Depending on the year it could also cause internal engine damage. If you need help give me a call: Superior Soobie & Import, 503-880-4084. I'm in Milwaukie. I've fixed a number of these without replacing the crank or the engine as a lot of shops will tell you needs to be done. GD

Surge tank should always be full so you shouldn't have to do anything but run both pumps - add a second relay and run it from the same signal as the existing fuel pump relay. The only time you would ever have to worry about it is when you need to pre-fill the surge tank - like the first time you start it or if the system has been purged of fuel. For that I would add a momentary switch under the dash somewhere to cycle the delivery pump as long as it's held down. All that switch would do is ground the delivery pump relay when you have the key on but are not cranking it. GD

Electronics can fail from age. Especially capacitors like to start leaking and transistors will occasionally burn out from heat cycling. But I would guess that you are fighting a resistance battle with your grounds or power supplies. Checking the voltage and the resistance per the FSM is not sufficient to tell you if the wiring will carry a 10 amp draw without voltage drop. You really need to perform a voltage drop test with a load in the circuit that approximates the load of the EGR solenoid. You may have a corroded ground connection or a bad connection at your fusible link that supplies power to the ECU.... for example. These come in handy for what you are about to test: http://www.esitest.com/180.html GD

So - at the plug to the ignition relay you have 12v at the yellow wires but when the relay is energized you have 5v coming out on the yellow/red? Bad ignition relay. GD

Drain the front diff gear oil and check for metal and broken gear teeth. GD

That's the wrong way to do it. The ignition relay is there for a reason. You need to find the source of the voltage drop, not remove components and wire around them. Hard to say - probably missing a ground source or power source. No. The pump will continue to run in an accident scenario and could cause a fire or fuel spill. I've stripped more harnesses than I can count and it's never been wrong that I've seen. Completely uneccesary and a waste of valueable time and resources. The ECU already handles the fuel pump shutdown by cutting out the fuel pump relay when there is no ignition pulse (tach signal) present. The wiring, hardware, and software is already in place to support the "safety" you desire so adding additional components and wiring is just wasted effort. GD

For sheet metal you really need thin wire and shielding gas. The flux will make it impossible to do short tack welds as the slag needs to be removed before striking the arc to prevent slag inclusion in your welds. You don't actually have a "MIG" welder - common misconception. You have a "wire feed" welder, or FCAW (Flux Core Arc Welding). MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas welding and if the machine isn't capable of using gas then it's technically not a MIG welder at all. Without a true MIG setup, .023 wire, and sheilding gas (preferably 100% CO2 as it runs colder) you are better off with pop rivets and aluminium sheet. FCAW for automotive sheet metal work is really difficult even for those of us that have some welding skills. GD

So is the shifter ready for orders? GD

97 and 98 have adjustable lash and require adjustment ever 105k miles. 90 to 96 are hydraulic and no adjustment is possible or required. The '95 and '96 are cross-over years with hydrualic lifters and roller rockers. GD

I don't want a chip with someone's propietary code on it - I want to be able to modify the parameters myself as well as log the real time data streams. GD

This is really excellent stuff that I hadn't seen before - seems like every few years when I look into this subject more and more information is availible. I'll pull out my ECU and take some pictures to post here. I would like to swap over to EJ25D heads and manifold as I have tons of those components - I also have a TD05-16G and a Forester XT intercooler - I should be able to use most of the EJ22T components on the 25D manifold but the injectors will definitely change and of course there would be little point to all that work if there wasn't a bigger turbo and more boost pressure to be had as well. All that requires tuning that has, in the past, required a standalone to do properly. It just seems like such a waste when the stock ECU could handle what I need with just a few tweaks to it's ROM. GD

All dual exhaust port engines will have non-roller rockers except the '95 engines. This engine can be identified by it being OBD-II vs. OBD-I - IE: Three wiring harness connectors at the upper right of the bell-housing instead of two. As to which is best.... there's no clear winner. Both seem to have the same reliability and longevity. The roller rocker components are harder and should show less wear in the long run I suppose. It's not till '97 that they went to solid lifters which will decrease drag on the valve train and should allow a slight performance and effeciency enhancement. The rockers and camshafts are different. You shouldn't use a non-roller cam with roller rockers as the roller cams are harder to keep the rollers from chewing them up. No. They are all the same with respect to reliability. You can if you know what you are looking for. GD

I think he meant Injector Duty Cycle. GD

Loop the heater core hoses to take it out of the system. Sounds like you may still have air in the system. Make sure you fill the radiator with the air bleeder plug on the passenger side removed. Doesn't hurt to have the car on an incline and to start it with the cap off and fill as it warms also. If that doesnt work the HG job is probably suspect. You really need to know what you are doing and it doesn't sound like this was quality work. GD

Since you have gone this far.... The community (and especially myself) would be forever grateful if you could do some similar work on the EJ22T ECU which is almost identical to the 92 ECU you are working on - with the addition of boost control. If we had access to the maps and the boost control it would make tuning them a viable option and I would very much like to see that happen. As a former software engineer I wouldn't mind setting up to do this... If you could point me in the direction I need to go for aquireing hardware and setting up to interface with the ROM..... NICE WORK btw! GD

99 is a phase-II engine and you cannot use any of the older engines without swapping the heads over from his existing engine (which are probably shot with scored cam journals). You can use (with little modification): 99 to 01 EJ222 99 EJ253/254 00 to 04 EJ251 You need to use his existing manifold and cam/crank sprockets. You may have to block the EGR port on the replacement engine. There are no non-interference options after '96. ALL EJ25 flavors that will easily swap have head gasket problems - you should replace the HG's on any 99 to 04 EJ25 before installation as a precautionary rule. GD

They are not compatible. The 4EAT went through a major revision in 99 and you can't easily interchange them. GD

Sounds like you just don't have power to the right wires. You need constant 12v supply to the two yellow wires going into the ignition relay. And switched power going to the light green wire. The white/black is the ignition relay coil ground. If you have those three things and you ground the ecu control wire for the FPR then the pump will run. GD

Are you and your dad aware that this procedure involves changing the wheel bearings which are pressed into the knuckle? If you need any help I have a shop in Milwaukie and I specialize in Subaru's. Give me a ring: Superior Soobie & Import, 5o3-88o-4o84 GD

Lets clear up a few things: 1. You say it "appears" to work when bypassed. I assume you mean the power supply is being bypassed... what do you mean by "appears"? Does it run perfectly when you apply an outside voltage and ground? 2. Have you done a fuel pressure test? Replaced the filter? GD

They don't have any in stock though - you must send them your set and wait for them to rebuild them. They don't have a stock of EA82/ER27 lifters unfortunately. GD