GeneralDisorder

Likely. We don't even replace the HG's on the H6's. A replacement JDM engine is too cheap to bother. GD

They don't include enough grease for this application and it's not very good grease for this environment. And it's better if the grease is allowed to flow into the inner pocket and between the bearings. You will have more grease and it will stay cooler overall (just don't pack it completely full or it will overheat). GD

They are off the shelf electric motor/industrial bearings. 6207-C3. If you wanted shielded bearings those would be a 6207-ZZ-C3 or 6207-2Z-C3. If you want sealed (what I would recommend) you want a 6207-2RS-C3. Pull out the inner seals, wash out all the grease they come with and pack them with Amsoil waterproof grease. Leave the inner seals out only put a little grease in the pocket between the bearings. When operating you only want the whole assembly about 1/3 full of grease. And McGuire will have these on the shelf. You don't need to buy them from an auto parts supplier. These are industrial 6000 series radial ball bearings used in literally everything. If you want to be really slick use 7207 axial thrust bearings and set the preload with spacers. GD

M20 x 1.5

Yes you can drill and tap the hole for the EGR pipe. We do it all the time. Use a 1/4" bit to drill into the exhaust port, and then you will need to drill/tap the threads for the pipe. It's a large bit and a large metric tap. Be careful and measure as you go. Mark your bit with tape to ensure you don't go too deep. Tighten down the tube fitting a little at a time as you rotate the pipe to seat in the bubble flare to the newly drilled hole for a good seal. You will also have to install the block mounted PCV valve into the 00/01 engine's vent hose. I just round off the edges of the hex on the 03 style PCV valve (get a new one from Subaru), and RTV/clamp it into the vent hose (get a new one of those also) from the block breather port. GD

Pull the oil pumps, sell those on ebay, load the EA82 in the trunk and send it to the scrap yard. $300 is more than anyone will likely give you for it. GD

To run at 3k RPM with the throttle closed it's getting air from somewhere - you need air for the engine to run at that RPM so it's getting it somewhere. If the throttle is closed you have a leak. And that means unmetered air which means it's going to be running lean and that will drive up the temp and run the fuel trims positive if it's even attempting closed loop operation. Fix the vacuum leak first. Or swap in an EJ22 and get more power without the messy unreliable turbo EA garbage. Or.... yeah..... burn it and get a V8. Although I would sell it to some other sucker and forgo the weenie roast. GD

They do put them in planes. I just built an engine for an Autogyro. And sad to say I bought the last full set of plastic timing sprockets in the US for the EJ25D heads it's using (with EJ257 short block). Even the airplane guys and the VW guys are unable to get parts. It's a wasteland out there for any Subaru more than 20 years old. If you want old stuff then GM/Ford is the only option (and Ford isn't any option I would consider). The current state of consumer products, right to repair legislation, and intellectual property laws clearly make it impossible for me to find any logic in owning anything made in the last 15-20 years. GD

Needs a crank pulley (harmonic balancer, etc) and a new mechanic. Any idiot can see the balancer rubber has failure. Which means his mechanic is *less* than an idiot. Keyway and key are fine. Replace the pulley and the center cover (and any other timing components that are damaged or due) and move on (with a new mechanic). GD

When the cost from Subaru is typically $20 to $25 per hose and they last 10 years/100k miles..... I don't even see the value in buying anything other than OEM. When it comes to the radiator - we buy Denso or Koyo exclusively. Both are excellent quality. OEM is 4x the price and no better. It just depends on what part you need and experience. Hoses and Axles - OEM are the only good options. Seems like Alternators and Starters are headed that way also. Have had a lot of Denso reman failures in the last few years. Seems like quality took a dive. Subaru has remans for most applications. GD

According to Subaru, no. There are internet sources for the solenoid - even Amazon. But there aren't any trustworthy vendors that I've found and the reviews are pretty mixed. Many people report repeat failures within days, weeks, or months with aftermarket solenoids. The sure bet is to get a valve body from Subaru. All of them have TC solenoid failures. My local dealer keeps 7 of those valve bodies in stock right now due to very high demand. It is a very easy job though. Those are top loaders. You pull the intake and throttle body and the valve body drops right into the top of the trans. Anyone that knows which end of a wrench to hold can do it. It certainly doesn't need a "trans shop" - whatever that means...... incidentally I really don't see much use for that level of specialization. I've repaired more Subaru transmissions than most "Transmission Shops". Better to have a someone that's brand familiar than a generic shop that claims to handle all transmissions. IMO. Most "trans shops" in my experience are not trustworthy. They prey upon the fact that automatic transmissions are basically Magic to 99% of the population and they know that if you're in their house you already basically suspect the trans is the problem if not completely toast...... it's real easy to scam people in that situation because chances are they have no idea nor do they even know anyone that has a basic clue about the JFM that takes place between the engine and the prop shaft. Back in the day when you needed a hydraulic schematic and someone that has experienced about 25 years of trial and error jamming micro-drill-bit holes into Turbo 350's, 400's, 700R's, and 'glide's - it was a thing. There's a (very) few guys like that still around - most are building 400's and 'glide's for the drag and street outlaws scene's. Anymore though that level of knowledge is not required as everything made since the 90's is computer controlled and only needs a good understanding of the fundamentals of operation and a keen eye for proper assembly. GD

The shims are labeled. It's etched into the side of them. You check lash with feeler gauges and then you order different shims if any of them need adjustment. The shims are REALLY small though. As in you'll easily lose them if you drop one. Think of a disc about 1/4" in diameter and a few 16th's thick. GD

You can juggle them all you want but since the shims on those engines are TINY and must go back on the correct valve you best measure everything if any of those got mixed up. Best to measure all the lash and adjust any shims that need it anyway. GD

We only use OEM hoses at my shop. Aftermarket fit like garbage and often require trimming to avoid hitting fans, pulleys, etc. GD

I was partial to them also - they were fun cars. But at some point I had to face the facts that you just can't get any parts. And parts for the GM stuff is getting *better* the more popular they become in the collectible market. The K5 square bodies are already seeing huge increases in value just over the last two years since I bought mine. GD

Not really. I get close to 20 with 35's. It's a 350 HP 5.7 Vortec. Doesn't need much throttle to get around. Plus I have a 33 gallon tank. But the real advantages are not being bullied off the road, and parts/service are CHEAP. My commute is 6 miles each way to my shop so fuel economy doesn't really even enter into my daily equation. And when I do go for the hills I don't really care - it cost's what it costs to have fun any not be worried about breaking things I can't replace. That's why I don't wheel my 86 t-cased hatch. It's got a 12 gallon tank, gets HORRIBLE fuel economy pushing 30's with 74 HP (worse than the K5), and if it breaks I'm pretty well screwed for replacement parts. Seriously - pushing big tires with a tiny engine at WOT is a horrible idea - I'm lucky to go 150 miles on the 12 gallon tank in it. I can go all day and night with the K5's 33 gallon tank and I have 23" of ground clearance under my oil pan. Lifted Subaru's get terrible fuel economy - even the new ones. None of them do much better than my Jimmy and they typically about 10" or less of grround clearance even with a lift kit and tires. People do it because it looks cool and because they are followers that do what they see others doing. I've been there and done all that more than virtually anyone that regularly posts around this forum. After literally living the automotive repair, performance, and modification scene for 20 years, I've come to a lot of conclusions. One of which is that wheeling Subaru's is an exercise in breaking sh1t and bashing over obstacles with the soft underbelly of your unibody. No thanks. GD

Replace the entire link. Replacing the boot is not the way to go. The link's are cheap. GD

Forget the 80's junk. Get at least a 90 to 94 Legacy with the 2.2. They are quite easy to work on and you can get parts for them. Either that or do as I did and forget the Subaru game and get yourself into a vintage GM that you can get parts to maintain. Love my '84 K5 Jimmy. GD

Negative. Those are not 255 pistons. GD

No press is required. You just smack them with a drift. The fit is not that tight. GD

Those handles break ALL the time. I've done many. GD

Search. It's been covered 100x. GD

You can discard (or reuse if you like) that seal. It's not necessary. GD

No - I wouldn't buy anything from GM either. But then I just won't buy new cars period. You take a bath on them in depreciation and they are designed with a planned lifespan of the lease period. I could buy any new car I want, pay cash for it, and write it off as a shop expense. Unfortunately there's just nothing out there that isn't a pile of proprietary intellectual property wrapped in plastic and bits of shiny. No thanks. I like cars too - one's I can actually modify without reverse engineering a dozen computers designed by teams of engineers with a specific mandate to make that process nigh impossible. I don't need that frustration and they can keep their overly engineered and under designed plastic crap. GD

Uh huh. Manufacturers are intent on not allowing you to do this sort of thing. You are fighting an uphill battle against a determined, and economically superior foe. Why? It's just a waste of time and effort. Go put your effort into something that's not just competing against the marketing and engineering departments of a corporation structured to take your money every 3-5 years when the lease is up. Ford eh? Not a fan myself. They do trucks and that's their thing but hopefully it's not another Focus RS or six point uh-oh! None of the cars manufactured in the last ~15 years are designed to be repaired or modified. In fact they are designed specifically to thwart any such efforts. Manufactures only make money when you throw away old products and purchase new ones. Regardless of your intent - I still say it's very unlikely to work the way you hope. I've listed several technical reasons why it's unlikely to work and there are probably a dozen more that I'm not considering since I've not had any of these transmissions apart for measurement and documentation. GD