GeneralDisorder

Slave failure is very common on that year Forester. There was a TSB about them having weak springs. May have been an applicable recall as well..... When you bleed it - compress the slave completely with a c-clamp and leave it there till completely bled. It's the only way to get all the air out. I've never had to replace a master - it's always the slave and never the master in my experience. Slave's are about $40. GD

Line up a new HG with the block - chances are that's inside the fire ring of the gasket. In which case it's a non-issue. Block surfaceing runs about $50 through my machinist. I do it on all the engines I rebuild but not just for a new HG. I use a "fine" roto-loc style disc in my die grinder to very lightly and carefully clean up block surfaces. If you need to do it by hand get the brown (coarse) scotch-brite pads. GD

All the EJ251's and EJ253's are great engines - properly maitained they can approach 500k. You just have to watch for external coolant/oil weepage from the HG's. Figure on doing the HG's immediately on anything you buy. As with anything including the EJ22's - look for signs of abuse. Heavy varnish deposts under the valve covers, melted plastic bits, etc. Subaru's in general are more prone to developing rod knocks due to abuse - usually running them low on oil one way or another or repeated overheating due to coolant leaks. GD

I've seen this a time or two also. Shame on the dealer for not pulling the pump off and checking things out. A leaking seal from old age looks and feels a lot different than a seals that's blown out due to incorrect pump operation. That's just plain ignoranace that they did not question why it was leaking at such low mileage. GD

Yep - a supplemental 10 AWG wire from the alt to the battery with a fuse at or near the battery is essential to insure the alt can't burn up the wiring and connections between itself and the battery. If your battery is good you may never need it but the potential to overload 55 amp sized wire with 20+ year old connections is there even if you get away with it for years without a failure. It's really not that hard to install either. GD

Actually thats not completely true. A partially drained battery is a bottomless amperage pit. The battery will draw the alt at max capacity and overload the wiring. You always need to upgrade the main output from the alt to the battery even if you are otherwise completely stock. GD

All you had to do was pull out the press-fit fuel inlet barb, drill and tap both sides, and stick the barb off the Hitachi on it. Brass plug in the other side. No drama or overnight shipping - 1/8" NPT tap and done. I've had to do this at least half a dozen times. Used carbs present this issue often. GD

It's a rod knock. I've heard it many times. Pull the pan or cut the filter and you will find the metal. GD

I paid up on my subscription but the site hasn't granted me my 500 PM limit yet. I recall something about the admins having to do that manually so perhaps that's the hold up. I brought my messages down to below 80 so it should be ok for now.... GD

If a carbed engine has this problem then you need to clean out all the PCV lines and fittings and replace the PCV filter element in the filter housing. You have too much manifold vacuum present at the suction side (driver's side) valve cover - which means the orificed vacuum breaker line that goes to the filter element is clogged or restricted. GD

Cone washer is a dealer only part. It's actually a mechanical shaft locking ring. Such things are common in machinery but not in automotive. GD

LOL. You'll be fine. E-tubes "aerate" and "emulsify" the fuel and air. Turbulence and roughness in the e-tube really isn't important. It is their function so a bit of a scratch isn't going to make a bit of difference. GD

It does NOT use a push clutch. No EJ series turbocharged MT used a pusher clutch till the EJ255 was introduced. The EJ22T uses a pull clutch like all EJ turbo's including the present day EJ257 in the 2012 STi. I own a '91 SS with a full Exedy clutch kit and lightweight flywheel for an '02 WRX. 100% Bolt in replacement. The only change is a stronger PP and 3mm larger diameter disc. Correct - no part of the systems are interchangeable. The pressure plates will not mount to the opposite style flywheel and the clutch discs are a different diameter. Slave is on the opposite side of the fork and the master and lines correspond to the size and location of the slave. An '02 TS is a NON TURBO with an EJ251 and will have a push clutch style system. It is not directly compatible and is after the '99/'00 5MT switchover. It will require a different driveline, different exhaust hanging system, different linkage, etc. It's really not worth the work for a non-turbo tranny. It would be easier and you will get a better clutch with more holding power and stronger transmission by sticking with the turbo transmissions. GD

Rockauto calls the transmission mounts the rear motor mounts. Right and left are symetrical and identical. Same part number used for both. GD

It was fixed by a recall kit. Search here on the board and you will find the applicable part number for the kit. GD

The lifetime warrantee on Autozone and other cheap aftermarket parts isn't worth the hassle. That rule is doubly true of fuel pumps. OEM for ALL makes and models is the only way to go. You will be replacing that pump every one to two years till you give up. Fortunately the stock pumps rarely fail so used OEM is the best option by far. GD

A large socket and a hammer will knock the hub free from the back side. And yes it works on the car also. About 20% of the time the inner bearing cone has spun on the hub. Creating a ridge that makes it REALLY freakin tough to drag the race over. Beating on those type failures is generally futile unless you have a huge hammer. Need a hub tamer/hub grappler etc, or a press to dissasemble them. GD

The signal from a VR is much too "dirty" to use where an optical signal was being used. Optical produces a perfect square wave. Also there are two pickups in the distributor - one with 4 large slots and one with a LOT of little slots. I havent counted them but it looks like it could be every two degrees so probably 180 of them. I doubt a stock EDIS wheel would have the right granularity for either of these inputs without reprograming or signal conditioning. GD

Dayco, Gates, or the dealer. Personally I prefer the oem hoses. Aftermarket tend to be thicker walled and the factory clamps dont like that. GD

Pull-type clutch is used on turbos only. The throwout bearing is "pulled" toward the transmisson by the clutch fork - its "pulls" on the pressure plate fingers Push type has the throwout pushing into the pressure plate. It "pushes" on the pressure plate fingers. GD

The ECU uses the optical pickup in the distributor to know when to fire the injectors - that is it's one and only crank posistion reference. With a stock ECU the distributor must stay. GD

Automatic. I wouldn't - but that's me. For $1k I could have a nice Legacy or at least a 5 speed D/R. An EA82 auto with 115k on it is still less desireable than any legacy with over 200k on it IMO. Especially for that price. GD

So you can wrench a bit - everyone that can wrench tries their hand at an engine swap - 10% of them get it done and 1% do it right. What do you know about electrical? Custom fabrication? These are much more important than wrenching. Anyone can take something apart and put it back together. Custom work is a different animal. Being "around" Subaru's for 15 years is pretty meaningless since you are 21 according to your age listing. Being 6 and gnawing on a fudge-sickle in the corner while your old man wrenches on the family wagon doesn't count. I've been driving and wrenching on them since I was 18 - that's 14 years of *real* experience. GD

You ever done an EJ swap before? What qualifications do you have for that project? GD

Unless you plan on doing an EJ swap - let it go. The EA82T blew at 92k for a reason. GD