GeneralDisorder

No. GD

Pretty easy to test it. Just jumper the two pins in the body side connector and the fan should come on. GD

External radiator leaks will not generally result in overheating unless you run low on coolant. He says it isnt low. I drove a 98 25D about 50 miles last week that had a 2-drip-per-second leak from the water pump weep hole. You just have to watch the coolant level. I've seen dozens of leaking radiators - they don't overheat unless they run low on coolant. GD

Yes. A 95 automatic 2.2 is a direct swap - no wiring required at all. 96 to 98 will require a different exhaust header. Otherwise its plug and play. GD

Yep - that's how I do them if I'm pulling the pump. Which is most of the time. GD

This is simply not true. The OEM thermostat's are not the locking variety and will generally function just fine after an "overheat". Here in the NW it is comparatively rare to see radiators plug up. In nearly 100% of failure cases they start leaking externally due to cracked plastic tanks or leaks between the core and the tank. Compression check will show nothing. You have to put high pressure to the cylinder as Ivan noted to find a HG leak. GD

Rod knock. It's toast. Pull the pan. You'll find the metal. GD

The shafts never bend. The pulleys can if dropped. GD

Not even worth the hassle if it's been done wrong the last two times. For the three hours or so it takes to do it yourself... I say don't let the dealer touch it again. Do it yourself and fix it right. GD

There is no difference in how any of the MPT clutch pack's operate. That goes for all 4EAT's - '88 to present day. Fluid pressure is required to engage the AWD as with any hydraulic clutch pack as seen in any common modern automatic transmission. The difference is that the Subaru MPT clutch (Multi-Plate Transer for those not in the know) is designed to slip when the duty-c bleeds off a percentage of the fluid pressure via a PWM signal from the TCU. GD

The ECU can tell that the sensor is electrically bad. If you have a code then the sensor needs replaced or the wiring is faulty. GD

Your valve is likely fine. All you really need is the duty solenoid on top of the valve. I've had several instances of this situation after engine swaps. Every time I've put the solenoid from the old engine on the new valve its worked just fine. GD

That's the hard way. Swap the whole rail with a good used one with two good injectors. You don't need to depressurize the fuel system - just put a rag over the rail when you unbolt it. GD

Best way to do them is to pull the engine out and put it on a stand. But lots of people have done them in the car. It's not fun and its a lot of bending over and hard on your back. The gaskets and such that you will need run about $100. But you should also consider anything else it needs while you are in there.... Timing belt, water pump, etc. GD

Go to an o-ring supplier and match up the seals - get Viton. Use loctite 518 for the pump-to-block surface. Check your oil pressure with a shop gauge. Don't rely on the dash gauge. They arent accurate. GD

I replace head gaskets all the time - failure soon after a head gasket change has never happened to me. You have to evaluate if its worth doing the HG's or not of course but "a lot of miles" is not typically reason enough to condemn it. EJ head gaskets don't mix coolant and oil - they blow exhaust gasses into the coolant - the bubbles collect on the thermostat and insulate it from the hot coolant causing it to close - resulting in a temperature spike. That is ALWAYS how phase-I engines fail. GD

Not sure on when you would see current at the FWD fuse. Pull the codes - you need to start there before worrying about the FWD fuse. GD

Find a way to start and end your sentences. I would reccomend punctuation..... but I'm sure a google search would yield other options. Your overheating sounds like classic head gasket failure. You should stop overheating it or at least start changing your oil after you do.... you will kill the bottom end quickly if you keep it up. GD

I've tried cleaning them many times and it never really helps. Replace it. GD

You dont need a linkage bracket. Or anything else other than what i listed and of course plumbing bits for the pcv that arent included in any kit. The kit is a rip off - plain and simple. I've done it both ways and I ve done probably more than two dozen conversions in total. I do know the cheapest, most effective route. GD

The "kit" is a waste of money. I've mentioned that many times in previous threads. The carbs are $199 all over the web and then you need a low pro filter ($20) and an adaptor plate ($35).... That's $255.... Not sure why they charge $320 for the kit. $65 for a (useless) instruction sheet seems ridiculous to me. GD

You probably have a bad duty-c solenoid. Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. GD

That's pretty much the gist of it. Seals must be driven in precisely perpendicular to the shaft axis. As they are installed over the shaft you need to rotate the seal to prevent rolling the lip. I'm sure you will be fine if you are careful and take your time. The fact that you are here asking how to do it is a sure sign you will take your time and do it properly. The problem comes from people working too fast and not realizing how critical the precise installation of a seal really is. 9 out of 10 engines I tear into have something wrong with one or more of the front seals. I should start taking pictures but I see it so often that it's hardly worth the mention around my shop. GD

You can do a leakdown or you can put a few squirts of oil in the cylinder and retest. If it's rings the reading will shoot way up. If it's valves it may go up a little but not to 185 where it should be. GD

You need a new Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. GD