GeneralDisorder

You can't mate an EA71 to a toyota tranny. The bell-housing that's made for toyota transmissions is designed to mate with EJ engines. So you would have to do an engine swap and a LOT of custom work. Basically - if you have to as how it's done - you aren't prepared to do it. Read - the answers are here. GD

But it came off clean on the other side. So you only needed the one gasket..... I can't rightly remember which one seems to always come off clean - but invariably one of them does. So I only end up using a single gasket. The plate is never replaced and is easily cleaned so I don't understand why you keep demanding that the dealer should have sold you this. It's not a wear item and as such is not stocked. The gasket.... eh.... I can make a gasket if I have to. Couple ball bearings and a ball-peen hammer. So they left out a $1 gasket. Big flippin deal man. The much bigger problem is the hack mechanics that didn't know what they were doing when replaceing the duty-c. And for that matter - it's the *solenoid* that goes bad (electrically) - the valve itself could simply be left in place and the new solenoid bolted to it. Though the dealer sells it with the valve attached so I generally replace both. But *if* I had a situation where I couldn't swap out the valve due to not having a gasket on hand I wouldn't think twice about snapping in a new solenoid and leaving the old valve body in there. I've never seen one of these valve bodys fail - just the solenoid itself. GD

Pull the #1 plug and feel for compression with your finger. That means the valves are closed and you are on the compression stroke. Call me about the GL-10. It's running..... GD

Because you never need those. The gasket between the backing plate and the tail housing always stays on the backing plate and I've never had to replace a backing plate - you clean off the gasket on the solenoid valve body side and slap the old plate back in. Though my dealer always sells me two gaskets even though I only use one - never the plate though. They don't stock the plate. They do stock the solenoid w/valve body, gaskets, and clutch pack. No one replaces those plates. And 99% of us only use a single gasket. So they gave you the correct parts for a trained and experienced technician to repair your problem. That's how I see it. They sold you only what you needed and not what you didn't. That's a service to the customer and should be praised. You talked to the parts people - they can only tell you what parts the tech's use for that job and quite frankly even the techs themselves can't be expected to regurgitate in minute detail the procedure they use for this job. It's basic mechanics 101 - if you can't figure it out when you get in there then you shouldn't be turning a wrench. If you have signs of mechanical binding then replace them. If not, and coupled with your observation of condition and measurement of thickness I would not bother. Speculation that they may have been damaged is not proof that they were - but appearance, measurement, and proper operation is evidence that they weren't. I'm going with hard evidence over speculation every time. GD

'96 Outback with an auto is an EJ25D (2.5). One-year engine also - large combustion chamber heads, composite head gaskets, non-dished pistons, hydraulic lifter buckets.... requires premium fuel. GD

Did you even bother to read my post? GD

Encountered my first bad EJ ECU recently. Heater core leaked coolant on it and shorted the injector driver amp - causing the #3 injector to be fully open at all times with the ignition on. The ECU uses the crank sensor signal to determine misfires - instantaneous acceleration can be derived from the hall effect wave pattern. If nothing else is confirming the misfire you should probably inspect the crank sensor/wiring and the crank sprocket for damage. GD

I diagnosed your problem back in post #38 - almost two months ago. That is EXACTLY why people bring their cars to me. Attention to detail. You MUST ALWAYS compare old parts to new one's before installation. Had they simply looked at the old valve and the new valve they would have seen the difference immediately. I cannot tell you how many times I've got a wrong part or seen that I had to reuse a component of an old part with a replacement - this is basic mechanics 101 and if they can't do that on a reliable and consistent basis they SHOULD NOT be wrenching on anyone else's car. Had you lived near me and brought me this problem I would have replaced the Duty-C and transfer clutch if needed (I measure them upon removal) and you would have been down the road for about $300. GD

Nope. Weber will help with low end torque and throttle response. It will not change the peak HP or torque numbers. Same goes for exhaust. You will almost certainly make LESS power than a Loyale. Loyale's are fuel injected, higher compression, and were rated at 90 HP at the crank. You '86 carbed engine is rated at 84 HP at the crank. GD

Vise grips and a hammer to get the EGR pipe off. Clean or replace the pipe and the passages in the manifold and head. Definitely your problem. GD

About $35 for a harness from my yards. EJ22T harness isn't anything special - couple extra wires that can easily be added to any OBD-I harness - especially if you are stripping it for a swap. The ECU's go for about $50 on legacycentral or car-part.com. Again they aren't that special or rare. GD

Temp gun? Shop gauge? Thermo-couple for your DMM? Lots of ways to check this. Asking us isn't the answer. My crystal ball has been broken since late last year..... GD

Injectors are ground controlled by the ECU. It should not have ground unless its being fired. it should have 12v with the ignition on. GD

Used O2's are not a real good idea. They don't last forever. Though you can "burn them out" with a propane torch and get some more life out of them usually. I get the NTK or Walker branded sensors and have had good results with both. Try amazon or rockauto. GD

It's the field flash circuit so you need the light - or at least a 12v ignition switched source. GD

Subaru stopped using common ground after the EA82. The 2000 radio will not have a common ground. GD

LOL. I should start doing that. I've got quite the collection of 25D's now. Like you I swap them for 2.2's on an alarmingly regular basis. GD

First of all - your system isn't holding pressure. You need to do a pressure test and find out where its leaking. If you can't find anything - don't forget to test the cap and check the seals and sealing surfaces in the radiator neck. Then once you have it sealed up you can get a temp gun and check your temps across the surface of the radiator... assuming you didn't replace the radiator in the first step which is entirelly possible. GD

95 to 98 is the best bet. The reason we do that is they are only $75 at the dealer due to a dealer initiated reman program for a recall campaign in those years. Make sure you have switched power to the yellow wire on the alt like we talked about - if you don't the alt won't charge. You also need the field flash wire hooked up through the idiot light in the dash or the alt will not charge. If you have the gauge cluster disconnected the alt will not work.... Insure that you have it hooked up correctly before you determine the alt is bad. GD

My supplier has had issues with the EMPI axles so they have primarily switched to the OPParts branded units. Made from the same components as the EMPI's (both get their components from the same company [probably GCK] in China). The biggest problem I have with both is poor boot quality. Also they don't have the same dimensions as the stock axles so when it comes time to replace a boot on one.... well I have had to have my supplier warrantee them over a failed boot because they couldn't get me a boot to fit it. If you have some axles with the original NTN brand joints and shaft you can call up Rockford Constand Velocity and get stars, balls, cages, and boots/clamps and rebuild them yourself. It's pretty easy and it's hard to justify throwing away the cup/claw and bar which are high quality Japanese components if they aren't destroyed. GD

Great info. I recently ran across a bad '99 speedo. Unfortunately I replaced it with a new one - wish I had seen this sooner. My dealer says this is a problem with ONLY '99s. They carry two speedo heads in stock just for this purpose. GD

Thanks - looks like you are coming along with your design. I know a thing or two about machining and I know people that know even more than I do. When/if we get to building these I would love to help out with sourcing parts, assembly, and logistics, etc. I know how to get stuff done... GD

Probably a little steep. I'm sure they gave you man-off-the-street pricing. If you got a business discount it would likely be about $50 for that hose. Which is completely reasonable IMO. I have occasion to have a lot of custom hoses and such made and I deal with a company that gives me the discount of my former employer - which is hefty. I just recently had 6 stainless brake lines made composed of 6 feet of braided stainless hose and 14 couplings - all for $185. GD

VERY bad idea. Don't you suppose they sized the wire and fuse for the coil to the amps it is going to draw? So now you want to add a high-amp draw heating element to this circuit? That's just asking to start a fire. GD

Yes - use the old outer race to drive in the new one. I get the new one started a bit with my small dead blown and just work my way around it till it is in far enough to correct it's own alignment. Then I use the old race to put the new one in to the full depth. GD