GeneralDisorder

Any place that makes custom hoses can likely do it. Look under fittings, couplers, hydraulic/pneumatic in the phone book. GD

Are you sure it's the EGR temp sensor and not the EGR solenoid code? That's a california only sensor.... it will be in the EGR passage - so likely on the manifold near the EGR valve or pipe. GD

If you are getting that reading directly off the back of the alt then yes it's not charging right. That's a full volt low. If you are registering that at the battery then you could just be seeing voltage drop from the alternator to the battery so recheck at the back of the alt. GD

Should be 14.0 to 14.5v if the alt is working properly. GD

You are probably seeing the AT oil temp light flashing. That means there are stored codes in the TCU. GD

Voltage isn't messed with - it should already work. That gauge pulls it's reading from the cluster power source. Maybe you meant to ask about hooking up the alternator? VSS is generally pretty easy to trace - just follow the wires from the hall effect sensor on the speedo to where the speedo bolts to the circuit board. Then follow the traces to the connector and determine which pin they come out on. It's probably a yellow wire with a red trace. Temp you shouldn't have to mess with - just connect the wire from the EA engine's temp gauge sensor to the EJ temp sensor. It will read low but it will work. Basically if the gauge gets up to half-way it's overheating. GD

1.5 hours per rear wheel bearing for a total of 3 hours. You have to dissasemble the whole mess back there to get at them. Generally means readjusting the drums, cleaning and greasing brake components.... not to mention the axle splines like to rust on the outboard side. 1 hour for the seal and gear oil change (I would do both seals and the o-rings). .5 hours for the muffler. That's how I would bill it. GD

I've seen the occasional bad TCU. Had a bad one in a '90 Legacy - torque converter wouldn't go into lockup and was throwing a duty A (or is it B?) code.... turned out the solenoid was fine and the driver circuit in the TCU was bad. Easy fix. GD

From the sounds of things - the condition of the car and his lack of knowledge/experience - one of these races it's going to catch fire and burn to the ground. Sad that it's running the stock engine and wiring. That needs an EJ swap and new harness. GD

EJ18's don't have knock sensors - you are going to want the EJ22 or EJ25 ECU with knock control and then add the wiring and sensor for it. The frankenmotor needs knock control in a big way - being high compression it needs the help that much more. GD

I must Strenuously disagree with your evaluation of this problem. If you look into it more carefully you will find that there are a LOT of supporting pictures of this problem in action. The usual result is a blown bottom end - very often a rod ends up through the block. I recently did a 105k service to a good friend and fellow USMB member's '06 STi - which he bought brand new and had 92k on it - Mobil-1 synthetic it's entire life. The oil pan had never been off. The pickup was ALREADY cracked. You can see that it was the metal that failed not the brazed joint. He was lucky - his engine never starved for oil because the crack was held more or less closed by the mounting bracket and we caught it before it cracked completely through and fell off. Being that EJ's don't have oil pressure gauges there was no way to tell this was happening. Oil pressure never dropped low enough to turn on the idiot light. Fortunately he had done his homework and had already purchased the Killer-B pickup tube for a preemptive replacement at this major service interval. I can supply pictures if you like. But that's the truth of it. No one "beat" on the pickup tube. The car has been through 58 rally-x's but has been meticulously maintained and never "flogged" any more than it was designed to be. It is, after all, basically a factory rally car. GD

Make sure you have a tach signal on the yellow wire from the coil negative that is not going to the distributor. If you do then you need to check for power at the fuel pump control unit (revolution sensor). It's a black box attached to the hood release cable bracket near your left knee - under the dash. GD

I'm not going to repeat it a third time. GD

Unlikely that it has a bad diff. Rear wheel bearings are a possiblity.... but basically those Imp bodies just transmit a lot of road noise. Sounds like things are going south but it's often just body bushings, etc. If it really is the diff - you have to match the ratio and the stub type. Any 95+ R160 of the same ratio should work. Ratio is going to depend on year, transmission type, trim level (OBS, etc)..... GD

It's a Chrysler product with 100k on it.... Run far and run fast. GD

You need to pull the TCU codes. Search on this board for how it's done for your model. GD

You aren't going to get any useful answers from your computer. You will have to go out to the garage and try it for yourself. Only thing I can tell you is that it's not going to be as easy as you think. I guarantee that none of that stuff will bolt together in a meaningfull way that yeilds a workable suspension system. Frankly you would likely be better to just fab all the simple bits from scratch rather than trying to use EA controls arms on an EJ cross member, etc. The stock parts are crap anyway - easily bent off-road. GD

I've seen this behavior from other 90/91's.... the code soup. One of my customers had this happen after we had some sensors disconnected for some troubleshooting. Try as we might we could not clear the codes nor extinguish the CEL. The car ran completely fine otherwise. A week or two later the CEL just went out on it's own and hasn't come back. Primitive OBD-I self-diagnostic mode. I'm sure with a SSM you could make it behave. But I've only had luck with checking everything over carefully and then waiting for the ECU to cycle through enough drive cycles to correct itself. GD

It's difficult to squeeze frome tubes. I use the caulking gun tube and I have no problems with application: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51845-Anaerobic-Gasket-Maker/dp/B000HBGLDM This is all the sealant that most people will ever need. I do a LOT of engines and one tube lasts me 2 to 3 years. GD

What are you talking about? I've rebuilt more transmissions and transfer cases than I can count using Anearobic and I've never had any of them leak. Transmission, engine, water pump.... what's the difference? A flat, machined flange is a flat machined flange. That's what "Anearobic flange sealant" was designed for. RTV is messy and unprofessional. As far as I'm concerned that stuff has gone the way of timing lights, cork, and rope shaft packing. If I'm forced to use it - it's because I have an "old" problem that needs and old solution or the manufacturer is behind the curve. GD

15001 is ONLY for 2WD applications. You cannot use it. You need the 15008. Or, if you can find one - get the 15009. That's the XT6 kit. Fit is the same but the XT6 kit has better grip. GD

I've been involved with some block o-ringing applications and was also a vacuum pump technician in a former career - though I only occasionally dealt with ultra-high vac.... most of the stuff I did was in the 10 micron or lower range - but very high volume. Freeze drying pumps for example. O-ringing is VERY similar to the ConFlat style flange. The biggest difference between vacuum and an internal combustion engine is the temperature variations. A head gasket must seal while the block and head are allowed to expand and contract at different rates - thus allowing a miniscule amount of movement. The ConFlat flange setup and other high-vac type systems do not allow for ANY relative movement between the sealing surfaces. It comes down to cost. You could simply machine the head and block to a laboratory quality, flat, mirrored finish. And then use nothing between them. Some engines used in top-fuel drag racing are built this way. Running nitro-methane and putting out in excess of 10,000 HP. Extremely tight tollerances and no gasket..... nothing to blow out.... well except when something *does* go wrong they catastrophically detonate. In the end a gasket is much cheaper than o-ringing, and other options. Could they do o-rings from the facory? Sure. But they don't *have* to do it to get the results they need. Thus the added cost for insurance against what amounts to a tiny percentage of failures in the thousands of cars built isn't worth it. GD

I pretty much stopped using RTV. The anearobic flange sealants are better technology. They perform well at everthing I ask them to do and they are friendlier to use by far. Only time I use RTV is to coat cork gaskets, and for situations where the gap is too large for other types of sealant. Such instances are generally only found on domestic cars. I just did intake manifold gaskets on a GM LA1 3400 and had to use RTV between the block and manifold - the gap between the two is approaching 1/8" and that's just the way they built them . GD

Yes it's a dumb question. But as with most of those around here - you aren't the first to ask it and likely not the last. It has nothing to do with 2wd vs. 4wd. Rather it's because the development of the 2WD transmissions for the EA platform stopped after about 1982. Thus all the 2WD EA82 transmissions are just repurposed EA81 transmissions and thus use the EA81 clutch setup (well - the 200mm variant of it anyway - not the 225mm 83+ 4WD variant). So it's actually an EA81 vs. EA82 thing. What you are seeing is a price for a 2WD EA81 clutch vs. a much larger and more expensive EA82 4WD clutch. They are 100% incompatible. I would push the car before I would install a NAPA clutch. Especially for that little of a price difference. NAPA parts for anything other than a domestic car are generally garbage. One of the last places I shop. GD

Absolutely. I have the '95 diagrams so I don't have to worry about finding them :-p. And the '95 ECU is no problem. www.car-part.com - you can find almost anything on there and the yards are almost giving away the ECU's since they almost never fail. In fact - I've only encountered exactly one bad EJ ECU. It was a '98 Outback - the heater core leaked down the passenger side of the floor board and got inside the ECU. Shorted out the #3 injector driver transistor causing the #3 injector to be constantly on. Otherwise I've never seen an ECU fail. GD