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GeneralDisorder

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Everything posted by GeneralDisorder

  1. The one in Renob123's Brat that lives here in my garage pulls HARD from 1200 up. Delta torque cams with hydro lifters. GD
  2. Yeah - you don't have the coil wires hooked up right I don't think. It's hard to tell what's going on with so many wires. There's usually 4 wires total - sometimes 5. Tach and distributor trigger on the negative, and then switched power and distributor power on the positive. And then sometimes a noise condensor thrown in.... but you don't need that except for radio interferance on the AM band. GD
  3. Check the fuel pressure if you suspect the pump. It is higly unlikely given your symptoms though. Fuel pumps generally either work or they do not work. It is relatively rare for fuel pumps to put out low pressure intermittantly. Guessing will not help. Test. Verify. Replace. GD
  4. Your business is supplying stock engines without thinking outside the box. That's fine. Ivan and people like myself supply what each individual wants and we are open to alternatives and improvements in design as well as custom builds. It's a fundamentally different kind of business. We do things you and the dealers will not do. Would you build a 2.5/2.2 hybrid for your customers? Or a 255/257 with 205/25D heads? I doubt it. Your business model is too rigid and inflexible to handle that much out of the box. Anyway I highly doubt it would cause either an increase in oil consumption or any structural damage to the piston. I for one plan to give this a try if I can find the equipment or a machinist that has it. GD
  5. You want a 13/32" end mill. Try http://www.mcmaster.com GD
  6. Been waiting for that! No worries - we are patient folk. :-p GD
  7. All Subaru blocks are sleeved. They are cast in place ductile iron sleeves. GD
  8. Mask what problem? The ECU is looking for a 35 Ohm load - be that a solenoid or a resistor..... Though you will need about a 10 watt resistor at least to fake it with. I used a 5 watt last time and it eventually burned out. The ECU just wants something to turn on and off. Doesn't care what that something is. GD
  9. You check the cam sensor? Cam and crank are both prone to having damaged wiring. GD
  10. I can pickup and walk around with a shortblock or lift it to the bench top easily. I recall the 22T I shipped to the east coast was either 75 lbs and $67 shipping or 67 lbs and $75 shipping.... :-p At any rate I don't think it's more than a 90 lb sack of concrete. Considerably less I do beleive. The long block is going to be about 150lbs. I lift these in and out of my truck quite often - one person on each side. I attach the engine stand adaptor to them first and then slide them into the stand. Easy lift for two people. GD
  11. Often you can make a seal tool with some carefully selected PVC or ABS pipe bits from Home Depot, etc. The FWD bearing adaptors from Harbor Freight generally do handle seals also. I've used it for that a time or two. If all else fails - carefully work your way around the seal using a hammer and a punch with a large flat end on it to spread the load out as much as you can. I also often use a large socket that fits the seal or the drive end of a slightly smaller socket held out against the edge of the seal and struck with a hammer on the same side.... it definitely takes a steady eye though when you aren't using the right tool. I have thought about making a stepped seal driver for that intermediate seal because it's so small and easily deformed. A stepped driver would take out the guesswork by shouldering itself on the outside of the bearing housing and being exactly the right diameter to mate with the seal. I recently upgraded to a Hub Grappler from OTC so I'm living large now. I did plenty of bearing jobs with the harbor freight unit but mine started to disintegrate and I was leaving a lot of metal shavings behind from the tool eating itself. Mind you it's got several dozen wheel bearings on it now so I got my $89 out of it. $420 shipped for the Hub Grappler kit. Worth it for me. GD
  12. The ones I deal with around here aren't going to have any EA82 stuff I'm afraid. It's getting hard to find '95 EJ22's from my sources - they don't buy them from the auctions cause they sit on them for too long and the value of the parts is low because of their age. www.car-part.com is the best source. That's how I've found all the places I deal with for newer stuff. I did buy an EA82 short block not long ago with 115k on it. Got it for $75 from a little podunk yard a ways out of town. But they aren't a consistent source - just happened to have one. GD
  13. Your english has improved a lot over the years. Quite amazing considering that I don't suppose you speak it much on a daily basis? Simply amazing. Nice write up too. Good information. GD
  14. There's a lot more than one bearing in the transmission. There are two roller bearings per shaft for a total of 4 main bearings. That could be one of the rollers from the pinion shaft main bearing by the looks of it - which would be almost directly above the drain plug. There's 7 seals actually - counting the o-rings for the diff carrier bearing adjusters, and the speedo drive shaft seal. May be one on the shift rod also.... GD
  15. www.car-part.com is your friend. Look for a short block - and don't just look local. Shipping on a short block isn't bad - like $75 typically. GD
  16. The EA81 was the engine of choice for years in the bug community. They do have distributors with vac advance... they were factory carbed. The EJ22 can be run with a distributor. They had them in Europe and they have a plate that can be removed from the passenger side head to run a distributor off the cam. People use Ford Escort distributors typically. Then you just have to build a manifold to suit a carb - the EJ FI manifolds are pretty tall though because they don't include the coolant cross-over as part of the manifold like the carb manifolds in Europe did. Which doesn't leave a lot of space on top for a carb to sit. Though you could do a side-draft carb probably. For my money - the '95+ OBD-II fuel injection is the way to go. More power and better reliability. A harness from a '95 manual transmission Legacy is a perfect donor. They run really good and the ability to plug in a $30 bluetooth adaptor and data log your engine with a $5 smart phone app is totally worth the effort. GD
  17. You can swap over to rear discs without problem but for it to be totally correct you will need rear disc parking brake cables for the '95. Due to length and mounting point considerations it is unlike that the '00 cables will work. The drum cables will not fit the backing plate correctly but can be made to work if you want to grind the end down so it fits into the backing plate and adjust the cable tension, etc to compensate. GD
  18. Cheaper and faster to buy a used, running engine and drop it in. Almost always. I do engine swaps like crazy around here - I've done three 2.5 to 2.2 swaps this month. As well as a 4AFE in a '91 Corolla. That's an engine a week.... all of them came from reputable recyclers - the most mileage on any of them was 137k on one of the 2.2's that went into a '99 OBW - the other two had 84k and 97k and the 4AFE had 111k. ALL of them run completely perfect. Carefully consider who you are buying from, get compression numbers, and pull the valve covers to look for varnish and carbon. I get a surprising number of engines that have had very regular maintenance - probably with synthetic oil as some of them look like the day they rolled off the lot inside. GD
  19. Not true. The lines are not empty after losing pressure. Without pressure the fuel will not flow through the injectors - it will just stay in the lines and the filter. 1.5 to 2 seconds is plenty of time to repressurize the the lines. May not be a fuel pressure issue at all - but the logic used above is flawed. GD
  20. Looks like normal casting defects to me. None of that matters. Aisin or NPW are the best. Preference to the Aisin. Paraut is also good but very hard to find any possibly no longer being branded as such since I haven't seen one in years. GD
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