GeneralDisorder

Don't weld - you will create hard spots in the metal from the electrical arc and there's no need for it. Get an end-mill (4 flute center-cut) of the right diameter and punch out the holes in a drill press or mill. GD

Sounds like the spider gears are shredded. Probably a chunk of gear tooth, etc got between the ring gear the case while it was spinning. Sadly it's toast - whatever happened in there.... well you won't be fixing it with some JB weld for the crack. Retaining gear oil will not lengthen it's life in a meaningful way :-p GD

Sounds like the front diff gave out. GD

Kinda, yes. From a practicality standpoint.... the EA82 is long and heavy like the Legacy was to begin with. IMO the money spent on doing an EJ swap would be better spent doing a D/R swap into a Legacy. And for the costs and complexity of the EJ engine swap you could import an EJ D/R from europe and get 4.11 or 4.44 gearing out of the deal. EJ swaps should be reserved for things like RX's, and the Brat/Hatch - because of their collectible value and cool factor and because the Hatch is small and light so it benefits from the power a lot more. A lot of people are doing it to have something unique.... so I guess you can't put a price on that. But for pure functionality - it's a huge waste of time and resources. I can out-wheel almost any EA in a stock first-gen Forester automatic and the price for one of those is down to about $2500 or less. Last one I bought for $1500 with a bad radiator. Tell me how you are going to buy an EA82, EJ swap it, lift it, and wheel like that Forester can in stock form for $1500?? Answer.... you aren't. GD

EGR light is a mileage tripped service reminder light on your car. It has nothing to do with engine operation. It comes on every 60k miles. Chain-store brake monkey rebuilds carb FTMFL! :-p Sorry but that's hilarious. People that work at places like that have recently stepped up from shaking fry's out of a basket. The place is called Brake Team and I wouldn't even let them do brakes! GD

I can do it for you - the cost is going to be around $700 labor. You will have to source the parts - clutch/flywheel, pedal assembly and clutch cable, transmission, driveline, rear diff, etc. Figure on spending around $500 on good condition used parts as well as a new clutch, clutch cable, etc. I'm sure that it would be out the door for around $1200. And yes - I have done this before and I do know all about bypassing the neutral start inhibitor, and how to tell the ECU it's a manual, etc. There is a good amount of wiring needed to interface the manual with the automatic harness - making the reverse lights and neutral switch, work and making the ECU think it's a manual without throwing codes at you, etc. Cheaper to just buy a car with one already in it these days.... but entirely up to you. GD

Probably a bad rebuild. Who did you have do this? It's not likely that adjusting the choke will help. For one thing the choke is factory adjusted and not supposed to be changed. Same with the idle mixture. Sadly rebuilding these is money wasted - the solution for economy, performance, and reliability is to install a Weber 32/36 DGV. They are down to about $199 for the carb. Then you just need the filter and adaptor plate and some JB weld to block the coolant port on the intake. Should easily get the job done for $275 if you do it yourself. If you want a Subaru of that vintage to be economical you should most likely learn to do your own wrenching. Otherwise it's just going to nickle and dime you constantly. A combination of old technology such as the carb, elderly components, and a design that is unfamilair to most run-of-the-mill mechanics makes paying for someone to wrench on an EA81 or EA82 generally a losing proposition. Even with someone such as myself doing the work it's going to be less economical than a first generation Legacy - simply due to the Legacy being virtually the same entry price and being a lot more reliable in general. Easier to work on as well. GD

They make ALL the NAPA filter. Carquest too. I use them if I can't get to the dealer. GD

It has a BOV. Run. GD

I'm going to talk with my machinist about this. See if he even has the tooling for this work. GD

I replace bearings all the time - $150 installed including parts. But I have a hub tamer and I've done dozens of them. It's a pretty routine job at my shop. GD

They used at least five different part numbers for floor pans. The manual 4WD being the largest. Rear diff ratio must match the transmission - auto is likely 3.7 while a five speed is 3.9. GD

Sounds like you are extremely close to me. I'm in willamette near the 10th street exit. You should drop by my garage sometime so you can get an idea of what you can do and get some realistic expectations for your future mods. GD

You need quite a few parts - clutch and flywheel, pedal assembly and cable, transmission, driveline, rear diff, etc. The transmission tunnel on the auto is smaller than the manual and the 5 speed has trouble clearing even the manual transmission tunnel so you have to do some beating or cutting/welding in that area as well as tilt the transmission and engine a few degree's backward..... it can be done though. GD

EA and Legacy diffs are all the same except for stub style. Internally they are identical and if you made a locker for one it would fit both. I have a crapload of 3.7 and some 3.9 diffs and diff parts in my shed. Probably will never use any of them due to their ratio's - almost any conceiveable replacement I would need would be 4.11 or 4.44 and probably for a '95+ that doesn't use the bolt-in stubs. Anyway - you can have whatever diff parts you want - just haul em off. GD

I can now report that this mod also works on the older 85/86 orange digi-dash as well. You have to put the 1k resistor across the same 36k resistor in the tach circuit but on the orange dash circuit board it's in a different location and is labeled as "R50". It's just to the left of the connector with the tach pin on the back of the board. It's difficult to access from the resistor side of the board as it is partially obscured by a permanently mounted ribbon cable so I had to remove the circuit board and put the 1k resistor on the back side of the board. Tach works great.... GD

You would have to buy the whole knuckle. There is not a seperate bearing assembly that bolts in like some other designs. You will need either a press or a hub tamer style tool set to install them. These cannot be done with a hammer and punch, etc. GD

Overtightening of the square cross-section gaskets will cause them to bunch up. You need to REMOVE the gasket from the filter, lubricate both sides of it, and then install it evenly by pushing it down into the filter body in a star pattern. Then install hand tight plus 1/8 turn. More tightness will only result in further leakage or compressing the gasket till the filter body touches the block. Fought with this many times on large compressor filters. Even did some tests with lubricated and unlubricated gaskets and torque wrenches - proved that you can't make them seal with more torque. One of the reasons the OEM filter is much superior is that it has a captured gasket that is incapable of bunching. GD

Ford F-150 pump. GD

Try the fitment of a new pilot bearing. The ID of that old one may be enlarged. You can buy speedi-sleeves in any size you like. Just have to measure. Since that's an off-the-shelf bearing (6202 IIRC) the shaft repair sleeve for that size will be very common. Attach the sleeve with one of the loctite sleeve retainers (609/620/640) that is commensurate with the clearance between the worn shaft and the repair sleeve..... GD

Sounds like a mess - I've done heli-coil's on EA82's and frankly it's a pain in the neck even without having the hole drilled all wonky. He's likely going to have to *mill* the hole out at this point.... and that's just not really cost effective when you can pickup used EA82 short blocks for $75 to $125. I say throw it away and put the machine shop money into a good used engine or short block. These just aren't cost effective to repair when damaged to that degree. GD

~21 psi. 1.5 to 3 is for carbs - which were discontinued after '87. GD

I use a wobbly spark plug socket, a 1" extension, and a 1" "wobble" extension. You definitely do put the plug in the socket, then feed the socket and extensions down the hole - then attach your ratchet. You can also just jack up the side of the engine - may have to disconnect exhaust and pitching stopper. Removing the valve covers will give you a lot more room also. If they need resealed anyway.... GD

The exhaust gasses are hot, but not nearly as hot as combustion itself once they have recirculated. The key is that exhaust gasses are INERT. That is they have no combustable components anymore. They are recirculated under part-throttle cruise to displace fuel/air and lower NOx emissions. It does NOT rob power, and it is not a source of component failure generally speaking. It takes exactly one vacuum hose to late ported vacuum to run it. There's no benefit to removing it at all. Since when did they do away with it? I've personally swapped engines on as late as 2006 and in fact it's just the opposite - they ALL have EGR's now - used to be some manual transmission EJ's didn't have them. Now they all do. GD