GeneralDisorder

Not gonna happen..... you'll never get all of the systems installed into the vehicle to satisfy the ECU's emissions systems requirements and immobilizer, etc. For a smog check you can't have ANY diagnostic codes - the ECU wants all the other computers it talks to in the Tribeca - TCU, ABS, BIU, gauge cluster, transponder key, and likely several more. And all of the those computers have to be happy also or they will send a message to the ECU for a "MIL request" - which will illuminate the check engine lamp, disable cruise control, etc. You would need the entire fuel system and evaporative emissions system from the Tribeca..... you basically would have to transplant the entire drivetrain and every single bit of wiring which would be a herculean effort. You're better off with something like a first gen EJ22 swap where the ECU is extremely dumb and has no OBD-II capabilities. And yes - California sucks. Highly suggest leaving the Soviet Socialist Republic of CA. I won't even visit that state and I'm in Oregon. I just drive around that hell hole. GD

Being a drive by wire engine the ECU controls cruise control. But I'm guessing you have about a billion diagnostic codes if it's swapped using the factory ECU and CC will not function if you have even a single fault code present. So it's unlikely to ever function. Rewire the engine with a LINK ECU. Then you can implement cruise control. https://linkecu.com/ GD

Don't even bother with the factory ECU. You'll likely never get the immobilizer to function. It requires the BIU, the gauge cluster, the transponder key, and the ECU to be married and present. All communication is via CANBUS and without the TCU and all the other controllers you will have no end of fault codes. It will be an absolute nightmare. Also these engines are drive by wire so you need the accelerator pedal, harness connector, etc, etc. That's not how this is done. We do swaps all the time...... Run the engine with a LINK standalone. https://linkecu.com/ GD

All the bearings come greased. We do lots of bearings and always use the grease they come with. GD

System evacuation is costly because the government says I have to have a license to buy the refrigerant (in 30lb cylinders) and the EPA can fine me if I don't prove that I'm recovering the stuff, etc. The machine to do this effectively and properly filter the refrigerant so it doesn't contaminate my system is about $6,000. The filters have to be changed, it requires an operator, etc, etc. Not to mention the overhead of running a shop - insurance, payroll, rent/mortgage, etc. It would make your head spin right off your shoulders. That's why nearly all shops have a one-hour minimum. By the time I make an appointment, talk to the customer about their concerns and expectations, perform the work, write up the invoice, etc - it's just not possible to not charge for these services. AC repair is actually pretty simple for the most part. There's no magic to it. For the most part Subaru systems tend to be easier than most. Usually bad Shrader's, bad o-rings, or a bad compressor. Sometimes hose crimps or a hole in a condenser. Subaru's tend to be fine with replacement compressors without touching anything else or flushing anything. The receiver/dryer acts as enough of a filter to keep the debris from plugging things up so typically you just throw in a new or used compressor, a few ounces of oil, some new o-rings, and charge them. GD

You would have to test it. These are general principles used by all fuel injection but the subtleties of individual implementations are not something I have tested or disassembled the code looking for. GD

Overrun fuel cut deactivation is typically a table based on coolant temp. Minimum RPM at full temp is usually somewhere between 1200 and 1800 rpm at full temp. Above that RPM any throttle position under about 1.5% activates fuel cut. There is typically a large timing retard that occurs during activation and deactivation to smooth the transition. GD

And now you know why I suggested to clean the throttle body FIRST. Glad you avoided total destruction. GD

No hydraulic lifters on Subaru engines after '96. Bad valve lash adjustment (not naturally occurring) or rod knock. GD

What brand is the belt? OEM or Misuboshi are the only correct answers. GD

JDM engines are a way better deal and it's a huge risk to do HG's on anything with over 200k. Besides that we just don't do HG's on H6's at all - the cost is way too high as they are much too time consuming. It would cost more than the car is worth and you'll have 200k+ mile parts with new gaskets - absolutely terrible idea. JDM motor plus install would likely be around $4500 through my shop. They come with a 12 month, 12k mile warranty. GD

Green if you want no problems. Blue if you want a clogged heater core and more rapid deterioration of cooling system plastics. GD

Waste of time. And the compressor has a much smaller diameter pulley so you couldn't use the size that Subaru used. GD

Clean the throttle body and if that doesn't resolve it start by replacing the accelerator pedal assembly. They are a known failure item. GD

'13 Forester is a chain motor. They are pretty labor intensive and the dealer quote isn't really that bad. You might find a shop that can add more value by replacing more parts but those early FB's are notorious for burning oil..... If you came to my shop I would recommend a new short block in addition to the head gaskets and that's about $4k plus an $1800 short block. In addition I would recommend replacing the radiator and hoses as well due to age (10+ year old plastic). That would bring the price to the neighborhood of ~$6300 to $6500..... The cheapest car is almost always the one you already have and with average new car price coming in around $48k.... I would find a good independent shop willing to do a new OEM Subaru short block, new cooling system, along with all the gaskets and seals and fluids, etc. Expect it to be $6-7k and be the last major work he needs to do for the life of the car. GD

I haven't run into that - try swapping the axle from the other side and see if it's the axle dimensions. When I did a set of them on a Brat for rally-x racing we actually decided to run a shim ring to loosen them up and lower the hub temps. GD

I posted a how to thread probably around 2009 or so showing how to do these with a Harbor Freight screw press ("FWD Service Set"). It's not rocket science. I did a couple front bearings on about a 1990 Legacy with one of these and the guy I sold it to drove the car for another 100k miles without issue. It's about cleanliness and attention to detail. Any of these cheap kits will do the job. GD

There's tons of cheap screw press kits available now. Just 10 seconds on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Replacement-Automotive/dp/B01FLVOAZI

Yeah those cars have BAD transmission issues. Valve bodies, torque converters, wiring harnesses, and often times the whole transmission. About $8500 for transmission replacement. I tell customers to avoid those models like the plague - the 6 speed manual is the way to go for those years. But they also frequently have head gasket failures resulting in overheating - they used the 770 gaskets from the factory but something about the installation of them didn't work out I guess. Kindof odd actually - it's just the 10-12 Legacy models with the weird final years of the SOHC belt engine that have that problem. Then you stack the CVT failures on top of it and they are absolute piles of trash. Incidentally Subaru is now ranked like 20th for reliability - even below Mercedes an Volkswagen. 😂 https://www.jdpower.com/business/press-releases/2022-us-vehicle-dependability-study

The CVT's on those are problematic. First and foremost if the TC hasn't been changed it's going to need one. Stab the brakes coming to a stop and I bet it stumbles or stalls: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10140492-9999.pdf

They are very effective and don't crack around the bolt holes, rattle, or rust like the heat shields. GD

Just get a turbo blanket - get the PTP Lava model - and throw the brackets in the trash. GD

It could be break-in related. That said - in a perfectly machined, and perfectly cleanly assembled engine - assuming it is primed correctly, etc - there *should* be NO break-in except for rings - which would be cast iron, steel, and I think the top compression ring is plasma-moly (100% molybdenum) coated..... there's really nothing in an engine that *should* wear that contains silicon. The bearings should float on a film of engine oil and continued excess silicon in my opinion is an indication of sloppy clearance, assembly, or cleanliness. It may wear to a point and plateau there for a very long time - or it may just eat itself in short order. It's really hard to say - continue to do analysis and watch the trends. GD

Important to note here that "Silicon" is different than "Silicone" (often found in engine sealants) and also different than "Silica" (which is often found in sand and dust) - these are all different materials with different properties. Silicon is used in the BiMetal bearings Subaru uses for the connecting rod and main bearings: https://www.aclus.com/bimetal-bearings-characteristics.html Having seen the a few of these reman engines fail, and given the track record of this particular vehicle and the dealer doing the repairs - I would guess accelerated bearing wear is the reason for the high silicon. Might be minimal and clear up with more miles, or it might eventually throw a rod. We had one of those engines blow at about 13k miles. GD

Disregard my advice and experience at your own risk. 🤷‍♂️ GD