GeneralDisorder

The tone rings for the ABS are integrated into the sealed bearing assembly. They are not accessible. So you would have to design new external tone rings and sensors to match or disassemble and redesign the tone ring setup inside the sealed bearing/hub assembly. This would then result in the car reporting a different road speed to EVERY computer including the gauge cluster. While this would probably work to fool the computers - it would be less than desirable in other ways. At the end of the day - the slight change in gearing isn't worth it and in any case it's a CVT automatic with a torque converter so you don't even need the gearing. You have all the gearing you need for wheeling (as much as a Subaru with 10" or less under it's oil pan can wheel) because you have a TC. If you want to do serious wheeling go find something with a solid axle and appropriate clearance - my K5 Jimmy has 23" under the oil pan for example. GD

The computer absolutely WILL know the difference. The computer has access to the vehicle speed on the CANBUS and it internally knows it's own shaft speeds, input speeds, and output speeds. Vehicle speed will no longer correlate as expected with engine RPM, and with the CVT the transmission computer is designed to keep the engine in a specific RPM band and to use changes in the gearing for differences in road speed. I would say it's unlikely that the computer will accept a change in gearing without throwing some codes at the very least. Since it's effectively impossible to know the programming of the TCU as this is proprietary closed source software the only way to know for sure would be to try it. Buy I would guess it probably won't work. GD

Unlikely that the existing transmission control would be happy with a gear ratio change, and even more unlikely that the car would be happy with a different transmission controller from another model. GD

The knock sensor is being ignored once it goes past 5k. Too much mechanical noise for the signal to be useful. It's probably pulling timing like crazy but that could be due to a faulty sensor, faulty wiring, or faulty ECU. My suggestion would be to replace the ECU with a LINK WRX2X and then tune it speed density and ignore the knock sensor. GD

And with a SIMPLE adapter, most vacuum gauges can also read low pressure and can test for exhaust back-pressure when adapted to the bung of the front O2. Which will immediately show a plugged exhaust condition. GD

Generally it will throw a manufacturer specific code on the generic OBD-II, but the presence of the 700 code is a clue also - that indicates that the TCM sent a MIL request message to the ECM. So there should be additional information available from the TCM such as TCM specific codes or freeze-frame data. More advanced scanner would be required to communicate with it directly. GD

Replace the coil, plugs, and wires with OEM parts from Subaru. Also need fuel trim data. Probably running lean. Knock sensor may be boned. Hard to say without real time data. GD

Probably unrelated. May need a valve body soon though. Those early top-loaders have issues with TC lockup solenoids. GD

Pull codes. Could just as easily be a bad ECM as it is a bad knock sensor. Most of those old ECM's have cracked solder joints or other issues by now. GD

Could still be a cracked spark plug, etc. GD

Diamond or Subaru OEM. Nothing else is suitable. You should check the plug, injector, and compression first though. Swapping wires is not a sufficient test to call out a coil pack. GD

It can happen. And if well maintained - probably WILL be the eventual failure that you encounter - or a rod bearing. Eventually any Subaru engine (most modern engines in general really) will experience a head gasket fire ring failure. It's the nature of aluminum blocks. It moves with respect to the gasket and has NO FATIGUE LIMIT. That is, unlike iron (steel, cast iron, etc), it does not have a limit below which it can sustain an essentially infinite number of cycles. Aluminum, when exposed to ANY AMOUNT of stress, will have some number of cycles which will cause failure. This can and does result in head bolt threads giving out, gaskets abrading the surface of the head and block, etc. Most people here and on other Subaru fan groups fail to understand on a basic level that Subaru engines ARE NOT FOREVER. In fact they are typically single-use when you take into account the risk vs. reward equation, cost of rebuilding vs. cost of replacement, etc. Especially when high performance applications are considered. We only build engines from 100% new parts for example. But the most common HG failure on those engines is external oil leakage - from the back of the driver's side head and from the front of the passenger side head. GD

Sounds like a torque converter unlocking problem perhaps - something akin to what happens on the 10/11/12 CVT's with the bushing that was later upgraded to a needle bearing. But a new TC from Subaru is like $700 - cheaper on the 4EAT to just get a used transmission typically since problems with the TC lockup components can also result in a plugged up valve body. If something is eating itself and causing TC lockup clutch and/or valve body problems then the transmission isn't likely long for this world. Not worth rebuilding and special tools are required. GD

Only manual transmission cars have the guide. And no - an auto isn't going to break a belt. Even a manual isn't going to break a good condition belt. Skip a few teeth maybe, but not break it in half. The belt was old and past it's service life or was off-brand and poor quality if it's broken. And heartless is correct - buy a Subaru (or any car with a timing belt and an interference engine) - you are immediately remiss in your duties if you don't change the belt, water pump, and all associated with QUALITY Japanese made components. You generally have no idea if/when it was done or what quality of parts/labor were used. And it sounds like the transmission/torque converter are garbage. GD

We entirely disregard Subaru's recommendations on oil unless the car is under factory warranty. We average about 1-2 oil changes 5 days a week for customers - usually schedule these at 9am to get them out of the way and out the door. THE ONLY TIME we use anything other than 5w40 (or 5w50 for 400+ HP), is on cars that are under warranty obligation to use 5w30 or 5w20. Everything else gets 5w40 Amsoil Euro FS. This is an XL oil with a 5w40 spec (normal XL is 10w40). https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-40-fs-synthetic-european-motor-oil-efm/ It's rated for 12,000 miles. We run it for 6,000 miles since the WIX filters rate about there and Subaru's shear their oil and dilute it with fuel (especially the turbo models) causing some level of consumption after about 2500 miles and we can't trust most customers to check their oil. I'm quite sure that all our customers combined have 10's of millions of miles on this oil and we have NEVER seen a failure related to oil breakdown, sludge, or really any lubrication related failure other than customers that burn all their oil up or leak it out and cause mechanical damage from the complete lack of oil. I have torn down engines due to failures unrelated to the oil - in one case we pulled down a built engine due to a cracked cylinder liner - plugged injector from tank contamination caused a lean condition under boost and the high cylinder pressure blew out the sleeve. Even under the SEVERE detonation conditions that resulted in a cracked cylinder sleeve we saw ZERO damage to the bearing journals running 5w40 Amsoil. So I'm not inclined to change my process. And I have reviewed the specs of the new engines vs. the older engines with respect to bearing sizes and clearances and oil pump specifications, etc - there is no difference between the older engines that specified 10w30 and the newer engines that specify 5w20. Subaru changes the spec based on meeting emissions and economy guidelines, and changes the recommendations for different markets. They have in the past offered 40 and 50 weight racing oils with their branding - in other markets. Viscosity is chosen based on engine LOAD. Higher load requires thicker oil so it doesn't squirt out of the bearings under high cylinder pressure. Take note that I own and manage a performance shop - as such my customers are largely composed of "Enthusiasts" who often drive their cars at the hard. I myself drive all my cars hard and have blown up my share of engines personally. Hard driving equals high load. And thus a step up in viscosity is warranted. GD

Synthetic. Period. Generally at least a 40 if you drive a Subaru hard. Anything over 400 WHP run a 50 (5w50 Amsoil signature for example, or 15w50 Dominator for race only). Don't use snake oil additives. If the oil needed it and it's quality oil then it would already be in there. WIX filters or Tokyo Roki if available to you. GD

Poor success rate, poor profit margins, and difficulty in obtaining good rebuildable cores. You should have bought new one's. Rebuilding is not appropriate for your use case. GD

They no longer make reman axles. They discontinued that program. And they never had them for 14's anyway. GD

Subaru OEM. Always Subaru OEM. There is no other choice in this matter. You think OEM is expensive? I had to get an OEM axle a few years back for a NISMO Nissan Juke (Joke) with 55k miles. Towed in because the axle was undrivable. $760 from Nissan. Subaru genuine (NTN) axles are cheap and last a long time. This is the price you pay for perfection. GD

Doesn't work. The ECU looks for a corresponding change in sensor inputs (probably a drop in MAF voltage) to verify the EGR is functioning. You can't just hookup a solenoid - you need a solenoid that drives an EGR valve through a proportioning valve and that creates a vacuum leak of the proper size. You *can* pull atmospheric air from the IAC hose into the EGR pipe and avoid doing the drilling of the exhaust port on the head but it's not completely ideal as it will result in a minor positive fuel trim condition when the ECU has to add fuel for the additional oxygen being introduced but not metered by the MAF (true EGR is inert so has no effect on AFR). GD

Yes - could swap to cable but IMO that's probably a bad idea from the standpoint of future maintenance. Could be anytime that Subaru OEM clutch cables for the 2001 and older Impreza go NLA in the parts system (and you certainly don't want aftermarket for that part based on EA experience). The hydraulics on the other hand are going to be supported for much longer and in my experience are rarely a problem. GD

You will need an intake manifold (with EGR and associated controls) and EGR pipe from an Automatic EGR equipped 2.2. Then you will need to drill and tap the driver's side head for the EGR pipe. If you want to do it correctly. GD

They sell them because people buy them (bling). I have not seen one provide any additional benefit for a "race" application in terms of cooling. They are generally more reliable due to not being plastic and thus more resistant to damage from chassis flex due to hard corning, and having generally more longevity since their welded aluminum construction doesn't suffer from differential expansion and the embrittlement of plastics due to age. You still haven't answered my question in regards to what you consider "not cutting it" and what temps you are actually seeing. I don't start to worry about engine temp till it climbs past 250. For reference. Many vehicles don't turn on their fans till they hit the 220's. I recall many GM products not hitting high speed fan temp till about 235. GD

A larger radiator will do nothing. It will probably make it worse as the fans will not be able to move as much air through the thicker core. GD

96 will be cable. 02 will be hydraulic. You probably want to use the 02 fork. You may or may not have to move the fork pivot ball location. I can't recall. GD