GeneralDisorder

You don't need the tool. Put sockets under the bolts that go through the rockers arms and tighten them as normal. Then pull out only the ones for the rocker assembly, install it, and torque them back down. GD

You will likely need it to pass emissions. It doesn't harm anything. I would leave it. GD

No need to check them. Clean them up and check for flatness at the same time with 220 grit wet/dry and glass. GD

The type you want to make if you are planning on actually making your own LSD is a Torsen type 1. It's 100% mechanical and much easier to build than the clutch types. GD

4 speed will be about 25 to 27 MPG in mixed driving. Over 30 will be with 100% freeway driving on long trips. 4 speed's are junk - 3rd gear syncro issues, lousy linkage system that's always loose - skip it and go to the 5 speed. DL will have a single range 4 speed in it anyway. High range only. GD

Fuel pump only runs when cranking or running and for 1.5 seconds at key-on to prime the rail. What you are seeing is normal for all vehicles with electric fuel pumps.... Since the common use of then began in the late 70's. Have you checked for codes? There has to be good cam and crank sensor inputs to the ECU or it will not fire the plugs/injectors because it doesn't know when to do so. GD

No - it's not the contact per-se. The circuit that feeds the starter solenoid spade terminal from the battery, through the ignition switch, and through the inhibitor switch on the automatic shifter, etc. Any poor connections at these various places will result in the solenoid not kicking out hard enough to make good contact inside. GD

Not really worth the effort. Not unless you also do higher compression pistons, port/polish the heads, and change the cam. The engine isn't setup for that much air. The EA82 carb intake is easier - you can buy a new adaptor that already fits it. The SPFI intake has just as much coolant flowing through it as all the others. You have to have a place for the coolant the cross over from one head to the other. GD

Yep - power (black wire with red insulator) goes to the + side. Yellow wire goes to the - side. GD

12v but the amps are also important. If the connections for the crank circuit are poor the solenoid will not shift hard enough to make good contact and the motor won't turn - you'll just get a click. GD

Yep - could go at any time. And it will destroy a lot of expensive parts if it completely fails. ABS parts and the hub for certain. Probably brake components as well. Wheel could come off.... but that is less likely. GD

Compression test is useless for HG checking. So is a pressure test on the 251's where they leak externally. Won't show anything useful. Check the head to block seam for evidence of coolant seepage. GD

Carb distributors are two wire - one to each terminal of the coil. Power for the pickup, and the signal wire to fire the coil. GD

Are you missing the reinforcing plate that goes over the flex plate bolt pattern before the bolts go in? GD

If the whole car hasn't been disintegrated by an alien ray gun..... it's possible to fix anything. GD

There were never any points/condensor style distributors made for that engine. They did make carbed versions but they have electronic pickup's in them. They are very reliable and never require adjustment or replacment so I don't really see the advantage of points. GD

Soldering the battery terminals to the wire is the prefered method. Crimping is not needed. Get yourself some quality welding/battery cable wire, the correct copper solder-slug style terminals, and heavy duty heat shrink with sealant incorporated. All you need is the cable, terminals, heat shrink, and a propane torch with solder/flux or solder slugs. The smaller gauge wires - such as the body ground or fusible link supply wire can be soldered into the terminals along with the cables. Of course you will want to solder copper lugs on the other ends of the cable for fastening them to the starter, block, etc. Here is one supplier of such materials. I haven't used them personally but it looks like they have the right supplies. I have a local supplier and you might check around your area and see who does terminals and lugs, etc. http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d242_battery_terminals.html GD

No - he said the AC is between the PS and Alt. That is inboard - which is factory AC. Also it's a GL-10 which would ALWAYS have factory AC. Irregardless - don't get a water pump from Autozone, or GMB, or any of the regular parts chains - they are cheap and the failure rate is high. The NPW and Aisin pumps are both made in Japan and are of very high quality. GD

Stick with the stock intake. It prevents the engine from ingesting water. That's the point of the snorkel under the fender. It's also a cold air intake as it doesn't draw air from the engine bay - if you put on a cone filter with a MAF adaptor it will be a warm air intake and you will both reduce your performance and potentially harm your engine via water ingestion. GD

Water pump length is determined by the AC - if it was factory equipped with AC it uses one hub height and if it wasn't it uses another. I can't remember which is which at the moment. Personally I would buy both (either Aisin or NPW and those are the ONLY brands I will use) and just use whichever one it takes. Duralast (as with virtually everything from Vatozone) is crap. I refuse to shop there. For tensioners - just order the belt/idler/tensioner kit from ebay for $65 shipped. GD

Hook your jumper cables directly to the positive post on the starter and to the engine block - then with a jumper wire from the positive post touch the starter solenoid spade terminal. Should kick the starter over if it's good. GD

Apperance is meaningless on the flywheel. Have it surfaced. If you already repaired the quill then it should be fine. Continue to use the T/O and quill repair that are currently in the car. Get the Exedy clutch kit and replace the pilot, disc, and plate. Have the flywheel surfaced and insure the T/O slides smoothly. Some play between the quill and T/O is ok. That will not cause the juddering. GD

Not to rain on your parade, but I think you are being unrealistic. I wouldn't expect you not to be at your age though. First - when you do get a job and move out - you will not be in a position to do lots of fancy upgrades to NED, or any other car for that matter. Bills suck, and at your education and experience level you will be at around the $12/Hr range if you luck out. Probably more like $10 - maybe less. That's $400 a week before taxes - you will be lucky to take home $325 of it. That's about $1300 a month.... with rent, utilities, cell phone, car insurance, food, and a few amenities there will be NOTHING left. Not to mention no place to work on cars.... Your best bet to live comfortably is to partner up with a roomate, girlfriend, etc. But they won't be happy if all your money goes to car upgrades that you don't *need*. Ultimately you are going to have to find your niche where you can rise above the daily grind. I did it for 10 years and had a few decent jobs in that time - making more than you will likely start out making even today - with lower cost of living. I still had basically nothing for the majority of that time. Mostly due to financial irresponsibility but that is exactly what bi-weekly paychecks engender in most people. The concept of living paycheck to paycheck is made much easier when you only have to wait two weeks for the next one. Thus people that are payed regularly and often tend to blow all their money quickly and have nothing by the next paycheck. It's easy to survive for two weeks with no money. Much, MUCH harder when you only get payed monthly and virtually impossible if you get payed quarterly or in longer increments. Thus people that don't get regular paychecks quickly figure out how to be financially responsible - the consequences of not doing so being a LOT more severe. And don't think that this fact isn't known by all the big corporations. They would love nothing more than for you to be a wage slave for the rest of your life. They give you a little bit each week or each couple weeks because they know you can't be trusted with a larger amount and because if they did pay monthly or longer you would soon learn how to save money and then you wouldn't be so easy to lead around with a leash. People who aren't in danger of being homeless without their next paycheck tend to not be as easily coerced against unions, and labor movements, etc. Realizing how business keeps people down like this made me stop spending and get out of the daily grind. I learned that financial responsibility is more important than car upgrades, big TV's, and cool cell phones. I did without. And now I'm being rewarded - I'm seen by my family and others as responsible - my business is doing well - and now I have all those things in abundance and I don't worry about how I'm going to pay my bills. GD

The SS uses a pull type turbo clutch system. The TS will not work. GD

In that last picture - you need to block off the ports that went to the AIS reed valves. Those are open to the inside of the filter element so you can suck unfiltered air into your carb if you don't block them. GD