GeneralDisorder

All '92+ have D/S airbags.... you sure you don't have a '91? Lets see a picture of this '92 non-airbag wheel and maybe we can figure out what you need. GD

Yeah - just let the running of the engine pump them up. Disconnect the coil pack connector and crank till the oil pressure idiot light goes out. Then reconnect your coil pack and start the engine. The lash adjusters will work themselves out. GD

So are you going to actually pay me for the car and *then* blow it up... or is it going to reside out in the country and rust away? You haven't responded to my PM on this matter..... You have had the car for basically a year or more now. And have owed me a paltry sum on it for that entire time. Don't you think it's time to settle up on the car itself and stop buying upgrades for it or video games or whatever it is you buy? I've been more than reasonable for as long as I care to be. You need to man up and pay your debt or stop driving it. GD

The OEM o-ring most likely has the size written on the part number label. That's typically how Subaru does things. So you could order a single one and get the size.... or possibly the parts people would tell you the size. It's most likely a nominal size and it's pretty easy to take some caliper measurements off the parts, and the thickness of the o-ring and infer the size from that. Again - you have to realize that they aren't going to use a special size for most of this stuff - as Quidam points out this same lifter is used on many models and when engineer's design stuff they often reuse components like lifters that are already availible to decrease the cost. GD

The only thing worth beans in the EJ22T is the BLOCK ITSELF. The rest is crap. The heads have smaller (but sodium filled) valves than the EJ22E, the piston oil squirters are not neccesary and often fall out and end up in the oil pan, and the pistons are nothing special - just lower compression than the 22E. If you put the 22T pistons inside the 22E case then you could easily use all the turbo components. At 165 HP the open deck design of the 22E isn't a problem. It's not really a problem till you hit about 300 HP actually. The 22E pistons are too high of a compression ratio to safely run the stock EJ22T boost pressure of 8.5 psi. Max boost on a high-comp. 22E is about 4 or 5 psi and they aren't that reliable even kept that low. But they will make a ton of power while they last - somewhere around 200 HP. GD

o-rings can be measured and I would have just done that and ordered generic silicone units of the correct size. The DNJ engine components brand would be my choice. I've used a lot of their parts without issue. But then if it were me I would just swap out the whole rocker assembly for a good used one. This isn't rocket science - and we aren't building swiss watches or nukes here. GD

Actually that's not at all the case. The EJ25's are great engines if you take care of them and give them what they want - synthetic oil and occasional HG's. They will live a long happy life if you just follow their rules. GD

Yep - 15A is a nice upgrade. If you or anyone else needs a connector a 95 to 99 alt upgrade - look no further than your local yard. Browse for Nissan's. The Maxima's from 86 to 94 have the same connector as the Subaru's from '95 to '99. GD

No it isn't. That's a standard '85 model D/R shifter. They are different but are prone to splitting in half. GD

That's a standard dual-range front input shaft bearing setup. They all look like that. Someone probably tried to get at the front input shaft seal - but you can't get to it from there. The plate does have bolts on the outside but there is no way to remove it without splitting the case and taking out the snap ring that holds the input shaft bearing into that front bearing holder/quill plate. GD

It's not an RX. It wouldn't have had the air suspension if it was. It's looks like it's just a 4WD Turbo sedan - possibly a GL-10. It's an odd combination. May not be original as far as the interior goes. Someone could have ordered the RX seats and belts for it when it was newish.... really hard to say. 85 was a really strange year though so it could be this was an availible package. GD

O-ring color is *somtimes* an indication of the material it's made from. But not always. Orange is *usually* silicone. Which is a MUCH higher temp rated o-ring than Buna-n, Viton, or HNBR. It's about the highest temp rated o-ring that's commonly availible. You generally don't see Orange or Blue in any other type of material. But color is NOT a scientific measure of composition. GD

Throw in solid lifter cams and rocker assemblies from a 97/98, adjust the intakes to .008 and exhaust to .010 and call it good. Drive it till it dies. The wear you describe sounds minor. Does it use copius amounts of oil? If not then run it till the rods let go. EJ22's are worthless. The time and effort to rebuild one is wasted when you could rebuild a 2.5 short block for the same money and do a high-compression build. 180+ HP and the same or better fuel economy due to the high compression. You can easily find EJ22's with under 150k for around the $500 neighborhood if you look and just have some patience. A simple visual inspection under the valve covers, check for crank end play, etc is all that's required - and most yards have compression numbers for them. Buy one, put it in, and treat it nicely. Probably get another 200k from it easily. I've done the cost/benefit analysis on this and I've done it both ways - the used engines are always cheaper and the gamble is well worth it. I've dropped dozens of used tested engine and NOT ONE has come back. GD

Yes and yes. I've seen them fail in that way before. Electronics can fail due to heat. I've seen at least a few alternators do this as well as a few distributors - car will run for a few minutes and then the spark mysteriously just dies out or will not restart when hot..... What you SHOULD do here is replace that round-plug alt with a 95 to 99 OBD-II alternator. All you have to do is get a plug from a 95 to 99 and splice it to the wires going to your round-plug and leave the yellow wire out of the equation. It's not required on the 95 to 99 unit. These alts were part of a recall campaign and are about $75 from the dealer for the high-quality "Remanufactured for Subaru" units. It's a sweet deal on the best quality money can buy. A Bosch reman for the round-plug style you have now runs about $140 so it's worth the extra work. The newer units are also about 10 amps higher output IIRC. GD

It really doesn't work that way. The teeth are case hardened and once the outer surface of the gear teeth is compromised - failure of a complete and total nature will result almost immediately. If its not making horrific gnashing or howling noises or hasn't bound up completely.... It's fine. Seriously when a rear diff goes you will be dragging one or both wheels down the road as they will seize up. GD

Some of the holes on that plate are very small. Was the plate removed and the gaskets on both sides of it replaced after fully cleaning and polishing the plate? I clean them with a roto-loc disc in my die grinder because the gaskets get stuck to the plate and don't easily come off. No voltage causes full line pressure to be sent to the clutch pack - which causes them to lock. Full voltage (100% duty cycle) unlocks the clutch - by cutting off the line pressure. But the same thing will happen regardless of the voltage to the solenoid if there is no line pressure for it to lock the clutch pack with. As Ivan noted above - there is a plug on the extension housing where you can check line pressure to the clutch packs. You will have to look up what that pressure should be - I don't know it off the top of my head. Extremely unlikely. And you would have seen massive amounts of metal in the extension housing when it was removed and metal swirl in the pan fluid. GD

With the larger 2-pot brakes you must use 15" or larger wheels. If you have single pot calipers now then you must have a Legacy L rather than an Outback or GT which would have the 2-pot brakes standard. If you have 14" wheels the larger brakes will not fit inside them. GD

Then you most probably have no line pressure to your clutch pack. When they changed the duty-c did they replace the valve body and both of the gaskets on the orifice plate under it? GD

No - shouldn't matter. Just use your intake and drill/tap the EGR port if needed. None of that stuff is on the engine block - it's all on the intake- which you will use the 2.5 intake so it doesn't matter. GD

You do not have an LSD. When you spin a tire on an open diff when the driveline is attached to something like a transfer case or clutch pack that is not engaged then the power will transfer to either the opposite wheel or the driveline - whichever has less friction. Subaru rear diffs are hard like a coffin nail. Your rear diff isn't broken. If it was it would be making horrific noises and you would know.... GD

'95 will work fine on the scangauge I'm sure. But a cheaper (and better IMO) solution is to get a bluetooth to OBD-II adaptor and buy the Torque app for your Android device. About $35 total. GD

I use: NPW Water Pumps. Mitsuboshi Timing Belts. Koyo and NTN idlers. NTN tensioners. The rest really doesn't matter as long as you install it properly. The only things I buy from the dealer are head gaskets, thermostats, and some select other gaskets and most of the hoses. Upper/lower radiator and water pump bypass, etc. I've found the aftermarket molded heater core hoses are a good fit and a better bargain. The radiator hoses not so much and I've tried every brand out there for the water pump bypass and they all just suck by comparison to OEM. I wouldn't touch a Carquest or NAPA part to save my life (let alone Autozone! I wouldn't even step foot in that horrible place). Not for a Subaru. Both are dirty, dirty words in my shop. I deal with an import parts supplier that has long-time employees that know their business. My rep has been there for 8 years and will bend over backward for me and my customers. I have never had a single failure or issue with the parts I get from them. GD

Jetting is dependant on engine size, condition, altitude, and a variety of other metrics including how it's going to be used. There is no "wrong" way to jet a carb unless it doesn't do what you wanted it to do. Jets of differing sizes must often be used because the size of each barrel of a progressive carb is often different. In the case of the common Weber DGV series the primary is 32mm and the secondary is 36mm in diameter. GD

You need to put a duty cycle meter on the duty-c signal. Or better yet an o-scope. You have no legal recourse with the dealer. They did not do the work. You had a hack shop do the work and they didn't know what they were looking at. Face it - you tried to cheap out and you lost. If you had the dealer do the work you would have a legit complaint - similarly if you had the independent do the dignosis and buy the parts you would be covered. But you didn't - you screwed yourself by buying your own parts and telling a monkey to swap them out on YOUR recommendation. The dealer is right to say they will not deal with this further - they don't know if what they recommended was even done correctly! I own a shop and would say the same thing - take a walk! So now you are screwed. Sorry dude. GD

The DEALERSHIP didn't do the repair. You took it elsewhere which means any inspection of parts durring the repair process that would have indicated a failure in another location (such as pristene clutch pack plates) was invisible to them. The shop you had do the actual work is to blame for not looking at that clutch pack and seeing it obviously in good condition - this would indicate that a failed duty-c should have been causing torque bind - not a loss of AWD. They gave their best estimate of the problem - which was clearly a failed duty-c solenoid due to the code. The usual repair path on a problem of that nature is to replace the duty-c and the clutch pack while you are in there. You can't hold them responsible for reccomending what any shop would reccomend under those circumstances. For all they knew the duty-c had been out for long enough to destroy the clutch pack. That's what any reasonable mechanic would have assumed and since you DID have a bad duty-c solenoid..... their repair path was 100% valid. You are just angry over what amounts to bad luck. Anyone here and any Subaru shop in the country would have reccomended the EXACT same thing. Now if you had the dealer do the work they probably would have seen the pristene clutch pack, not replaced it, and told you that the electrical problem is solved but the AWD system is still not working properly. It is possible that you simply have a bad TCU due to a prolonged bad duty-c. The duty-c driver circuit could have failed and now the transmission is fine but the TCU can't activate the AWD..... or your FWD fuse is installed. In any case you have NO REASON to be angry with anyone but the repair shop that blindly installed a clutch pack you didn't need - which could only be known once they had the old one out. The dealer certainly is not at fault and they were totally in the right to have you forcibly removed from the premisis. GD