GeneralDisorder

No clue then. I guess they could have come from an import engine or something. I've seen the inside of every single year of EJ22 on the USDM stuff and I've never seen that config before. Maybe some strange year of the EJ18? I haven't messed with many of those but I'm told they are virtually indistiguishable from a casting and valve perspective. So much so that head shops can't even tell them apart without marking them. Though the combustion chamber sizes may be slightly different. GD

Is there pictures? I would say they just don't know what they are looking at. I've never seen flat rockers and solid lifters. I would go as far as to say they don't exist because I've seen enough of these to know that SLA only came two years after roller rockers were introduced. GD

The MAP sensor code should be simple to diagnose - this is childs play. These J and J jokers obviously haven't got a clue. You need a scanner that can read the live data from the sensor. This can be as simple as a bluetooth to OBD-II adaptor from ebay ($25) and the Torque application ($4.99) for any Android device (that has bluetooth). Or as complicated as one of the Snap-On diagnostic centers that cost $8,000. You just need something that can show the live data from the sensor. It should be about 20 in/Hg at idle. Either there is an electrical issue, or the vacuum hoses are hooked up wrong, or the sensor is dead. Again - this is totally simple to diagnose. The catalyst effeciency code can be bad sensors (front or rear or both), bad cat's, exhaust leaks, missing heat sheilds, etc. Also a simple fix - thread the secondary sensor into a drilled-out 18mm spark plug non-fouler from the HELP! section of the autoparts store and be on your way. The P1143 is probably telling you that the MAP code is due to a bad sensor, or wiring plug at the sensor, or pinched wire, etc, etc.... Just have to LOOK with your EYES! GD

I replied to your vistor message. Click on your user name and you will find my message. GD

Thye use inch/pounds because it's such a low torque value that it's on the bottom end of the scale for most ft/lb insturments. It's 11 ft/lbs and most of them start at 10. The low end of the scale is not typically very accurate on precision measureing devices so they call for an in/lbs device so the result is more accurate. That said I typically just do them with my larger insturment set at 11. I haven't had a problem with it. But I do use Snap-On torque insturments. GD

Hooking up the choke would be wise. You can't tune or adjust it with the choke not pulled off. GD

Right. Current = voltage / resistance. You know the voltage, and you can test the resistance. If you dont have a resistance that yields a current small enough to fit the fuse in the hole.... You have a short or some device drawing too much current. Find the device or the short and your resistance will jump to an acceptable level. GD

IIRC it was about $400 for a driveline for the race Brat. It uses an AWD 5 speed. Yeah sounds like it would probably work ok. Why don't you just shorten the Legacy driveline, make some carrier bearing mounts, and change the rear diff flange to match? GD

OBD-II to bluetooth adaptor and the "Torque" application for your Android device (phone or tablet) will graph, log, etc your O2 sensor voltages for you. Total cost was $35 for both. GD

That's a whole engine. You just pop over to Albany, pick it up, and drop it in your car. Obviously you will want to do the timing belt, water pump, idlers, seals, plugs, wires, etc. But that's the basic idea. Very simple. GD

Buy a turbo car. Not worth the effort to do a swap unless it's something really special and unless you have done a dozen engine swaps it will never be as good as just buying a car that's already got a turbo from the factory. GD

EA81T's are fuel injected. Masarati used a blow-through with the carbs at manfiold pressure. In theory you can use any normal carb with a draw-through. Personally I think it's a waste of time. But whatever. GD

Do you have a diagram that shows *exactly* what is hooked to that fuse? You can should hook a meter to between load side of the fuse connection and ground then disconnect all the things powered off that fuse one at a time till the resistance jumps up. GD

He is dealing with 2WD here! They are totally different. Different size nut, different brake drum, fixed spindle, etc. You are confusing the man with tales of 4WD and experience with front axles, etc. This is 100% different and if you haven't done one before you arent helping! GD

You need to read the link I posted above. You will use the "diode test" function of the multi-meter but what you are testing is not, stricktly speaking, a diode. It is.... but it's most complicated than that because it's actually a transistor that is constructed with diode-like semi-conductor junctions...... The T702 sounds like the one you should test. It will have three legs on it that are soldered to the board. Read that link I posted above and it will quide you through how to test a transistor. GD

The TRX rims (390mm) aren't all bad - Michelin still makes the TRX tires but only in the one size - 190/65-390 They are high performance tires and handle very well. Thus the relatively high price. But most performance tires are fairly expensive. The problem comes when people get these rims thinking they are 15's and try to put something that wasn't designed for them on. The bead lip is entirely different also.... normal tires don't fit because the rims were designed for special high performance tires. GD

It's most likely T702 on your board. But the one that was a problem on his was Q701.... I would look for T701 and test that one.... Your's is an '85.... his may have been a later model hot-wire MAF unit. All the MPFI's from that era use this strange fuel pump ground through the ECU.... but I'm just speculating that his problem and your problem are similar. For all we know from reading the posts his problem may have been on the fuel pump relay driver side of the circuit. Certainly worth a test of a few transistors though. GD

I would just burn it off with my plasma. If you can get a die-grinder in there and slice it down till you are just almost to the threads you can probably split it with a chisel.... Sometimes there's no substitute for heavy duty tools. GD

If you are going to use a carb - are you going to do a blow-through or a draw-through setup? If you are doing a blow-through then what are you going to do about sealing the carb and how will you handle the fuel pressure? What will you do with the power valve when the manifold pressure goes positive? It can and has been done. But I wouldn't bother doing it to an EA. An EJ of some sort.... maybe. There's a lot of consideration that goes into building a proper forced induction engine of any kind. You have to understand a lot more than the average mechanic about vacuum and pressure. And doing it with a carb is ten times harder than with fuel inejction. GD

You might need to burn it off with a torch or plasma cutter, etc. at this point. I've never seen an axle nut round off. I would guess that your socket is not a good fit for the nut. A proper fitting, 6 point, deep-well impact socket is a must for axle nuts. GD

I think you may be onto something with the Q701 transistor - worth a check for sure. The pictures is in the zip file attached to that repair post... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=5039&d=1183545203 You will need a meter with a diode function and then you can refer to here on how to test it: http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/transistor_faults_02.php GD

The bushing in your picture is a friction fit inside the ear. You can easily move it with a punch and a hammer. Flip it around if neccesary. All the listings I have seen say that '86 to '94 Maxima's use the same alt. Look on Rockauto.com for pictures and click on their part numbers for interchange info. The plug IS different. That's a given. You have to remove the plastic from the Subaru spade's and slip them onto the male spades of the Maxima alt. Or solder in the Maxima (also 95 to 98 Subaru) alt connector. And finally - Duralast makes GARBAGE parts. Return it and get a proper alt from Bosch, etc. GD

The 4 speed is a LOT longer than any of the 5 speeds. Probably about 8" longer. It's pretty rediculous actually. If it were me - I would weld it up myself and then see if it even needed balancing. If you want a custom driveline made and balanced - these guys do a great job. http://www.driveshafts.com/ GD

How many blower motors have you built? GD